Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[fox87]

Do i need to solder to both points of each connection or are they connected internally?

 

[Donnie-Burger]

Do i need to solder to both points of each connection or are they connected internally?

Single or both bridged is fine since they are already bridged.

 

[jkyoho]

are they connected internally?

YES

 

[axlcat]

OLED RP2040 install, First time i have had an issue but also the first oled install. I have done dual mosfet. When battery is plugged in i get blue LED then goes off. And then when i then click power button no LED shows and OFW boots. I have permanent DAT0 installed soldered under emmc. what have a missed?

edit:

I have the same problem, I have 2 mosfets connected and when I connect the battery only the peak turns on and the light turns off. What is the solution to this problem in Oled models?

Wrong 3.3V point

 

[ecko4711]

Hey guys

Quick question guys. My Pico zero has already detached usb c and buttons. I was on fw 2.5 i think. I think i should update, when there is a new firmware, like 2.67 right now, for my pico zero, but how can i do that? resolder usb c?

EDIT: Could update it through payload picofly_toolkit. Now im facing the next issue FML.


When i go to console Info on Hekate it says eMMC is runing on lower mode but is still 400Mb. When i go out and revisit the console info it drops to 200 mb. The OFW seems also not starting. CFW is working. Any idea what the issue could be?

Maybe the wires are kinda long on a part somehow?

 

[cgtchy0412]

Do i need to solder to both points of each connection or are they connected internally?

Bridging those points is kinda wasting time, its harder than to directly solder to it.
Just solder to it and test the strength by swinging/moving it - the cable 90 degrees left right up down for maybe 5 times, if by then the jointed point doesnt break then it should be safe to leave it like that and proceed.

 

[1337_Ninja]

0201

Post automatically merged: May 10, 2023

Replace 470ohm with 47ohm, successful

I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. You remove the 470ohm resistors from the board, bridge those 3 points with solder, and then add the 47ohm resistors to the solder joints like the regular 2040-zero chip? Are you using the 0805 size resistors?

Thanks so much for your help.

 

[ypeeLs]

I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. You remove the 470ohm resistors from the board, bridge those 3 points with solder, and then add the 47ohm resistors to the solder joints like the regular 2040-zero chip? Are you using the 0805 size resistors?

Thanks so much for your help.

Thats what I would assume, you could also just replace them with 47ohm 0201, but they are annoyingly tiny

 

[LogicalMadness]

Bridging those points is kinda wasting time, its harder than to directly solder to it.
Just solder to it and test the strength by swinging/moving it - the cable 90 degrees left right up down for maybe 5 times, if by then the jointed point doesnt break then it should be safe to leave it like that and proceed.

I highly advise against stressing your cables that much, metal doesn't like being bent back and forth.

To me, if the joint survives my IPA\Q-tip cleaning, it's soldered well enough.

Edit for redundancy

 

[Thegribbs]

Has anybody tried using different resistor values? I've just run out of 47 Ohm, but have plenty of 27, 20 and 68 Ohm.
Maybe I could get away with 68 on the dat0 and CMD line and parallel 68 on the CLK?
I'm assuming these resistors are just for impedence matching?

 

[Ilaeri]

Hey, first time soldering here and I had a few questions;
I made an oopsie on the M92T36 chip and knocked off a few components and, while waiting for replacements, I decided to remove soldering points as my switch is completely dead (which I guess can also be related to 2 capacitors being knocked off around the M92T36).
But anyway, while checking for continuity, I have realized that the RST soldering point (marked in ORANGE) on a HAD-CPU-10 board is not bridging with the resistor right beside it (marked in RED) and then noticed that I accidentally scratched off the upper RST pad that bridges the two. However, while checking the lower RST pad and determining that it's still usable as a soldering point (by checking continuity between it and the second upper pin from the left of the connector), here comes my question:
Would it work to bridge the resistor and the lower RST pad with solder and am I safe from the scratched traces with just kapton tape?

 

[blackheartme]

Had some time to play around with MOSFETs in order to find a way for a quicker soldering to the SoC.

• basically, got a transparent plastic as a base on which I fixed the 2 MOSFETs with a tiny bit of superglue (from underneath). This way they won't move and make the soldering easier.
• soldered the Source and 2 Gate wires. Afterwards bridged the 2 Gates, so there'll be only one wire that goes to the Pico and used some UV mask to isolate the soldering point.
• now these "flying" MOSFETs can be taken by the plastic base and fixed easily nearby the SoC, and afterwards anchored well with Drain wires + more UV mask.

No science here, just a silly test that I wanted to share with you.

View attachment 370497

this looked neat, should try this next , less headache lol

Post automatically merged: May 11, 2023

hey guys, to grind and reveal this part here on oled do we need to use mini grinder? or its possible scrape it just only using scalpel ?

 

[jkyoho]

Hey, first time soldering here and I had a few questions;
I made an oopsie on the M92T36 chip and knocked off a few components and, while waiting for replacements, I decided to remove soldering points as my switch is completely dead (which I guess can also be related to 2 capacitors being knocked off around the M92T36).
But anyway, while checking for continuity, I have realized that the RST soldering point (marked in ORANGE) on a HAD-CPU-10 board is not bridging with the resistor right beside it (marked in RED) and then noticed that I accidentally scratched off the upper RST pad that bridges the two. However, while checking the lower RST pad and determining that it's still usable as a soldering point (by checking continuity between it and the second upper pin from the left of the connector), here comes my question:
Would it work to bridge the resistor and the lower RST pad with solder and am I safe from the scratched traces with just kapton tape?

You need to have A,B,C points join together no matter how.
Cant tell if you still have trace left on top of the pads where A and B used to bridge together, but I don't think any jumper would make more difficult.

Post automatically merged: May 11, 2023

or its possible scrape it just only using scalpel ?

good enough with just scalpel

 

[nico77]

so
hows RP2040 Tiny progress??
any one has attempt to success glitch ?

 

[axlcat]

this looked neat, should try this next , less headache lol

Post automatically merged: May 11, 2023

hey guys, to grind and reveal this part here on oled do we need to use mini grinder? or its possible scrape it just only using scalpel ?

I always use scalpel

 

[1337_Ninja]

so
hows RP2040 Tiny progress??
any one has attempt to success glitch ?

View attachment 370554

Yes. It seems some users are reporting you have to remove the 470ohm resistors on the board and replace them with the 47ohm. If this chip was made with the switch in mind then they accidentally used 470 instead of 47.

I'm waiting on mine so I can't confirm myself, but it seems to work with that little modification

 

[nico77]

Yes. It seems some users are reporting you have to remove the 470ohm resistors on the board and replace them with the 47ohm. If this chip was made with the switch in mind then they accidentally used 470 instead of 47.

I'm waiting on mine so I can't confirm myself, but it seems to work with that little modification

470 means 47ohm/47R
https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/470

If they use 470ohm/470R
Then the correct resistor smd should "4700"
https://kiloohm.info/smd4-resistor/4700#:~:text=Standard EIA Decade Values Table - decade 100 to 1000 Ω&text=The 4 digit SMD resistor,hundred and seventy Ohms resistance.

4700 stands for 470ohm
470 stands for 47ohm

 

[MicroRepairRX]

Got PicoFly on 2.67 with firmware 15.0.1. Updated to 16.0.2 using DayBreak after booting to CFW SysNand. Enabled Fat + Fat32 and kept all setting. during Daybreak update.

Restarted after update completed into hekate and tried rebooting to OFW. Got a black screen, no logo. Tried booting with volume +/- held, same black screen. Also took out sd card then pressed volume +/-.

Had to boot switch after disconnecting cpu wire on pico to get to OFW. Then reconnected cpu wire and can boot fine to OFW.

Checked the pico toolbox and the info said Fuse 1. I think it was 0 before.

Why didn't the switch boot to OFW after updating? Don't want to have to disconnect the cpu wire every time it's updated.

TIA

 

[Ilaeri]

You need to have A,B,C points join together no matter how.
Cant tell if you still have trace left on top of the pads where A and B used to bridge together, but I don't think any jumper would make more difficult.

Thank you for the answer, somehow point A totally escaped my mind of being any importance.
Would a small box cutter do to expose the trace?

 

[Phantomas77]

Got PicoFly on 2.67 with firmware 15.0.1. Updated to 16.0.2 using DayBreak after booting to CFW SysNand. Enabled Fat + Fat32 and kept all setting. during Daybreak update.

Restarted after update completed into hekate and tried rebooting to OFW. Got a black screen, no logo. Tried booting with volume +/- held, same black screen. Also took out sd card then pressed volume +/-.

Had to boot switch after disconnecting cpu wire on pico to get to OFW. Then reconnected cpu wire and can boot fine to OFW.

Checked the pico toolbox and the info said Fuse 1. I think it was 0 before.

Why didn't the switch boot to OFW after updating? Don't want to have to disconnect the cpu wire every time it's updated.

TIA

With PicoFly you're suppose to update OFW via official way, through the Settings. EmuMMC can be updated with DayBreak, and remember to update the Atmo & other files on the SD so it can work with the new FW version (at least it has worked for me in the past).

Note for the future: if you use "DIY transistors" for the glitch, I suppose you didn't include a pull-down resistor, so disconnecting the CPU pin is not enough, you need to disconnect the Source and/or Drain from the MOSFETs, otherwise some black smoke can come out from those transistors.