Recent content by MNiceGuy

  1. MNiceGuy

    Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

    Which ribbon did you use? Type-A or Type-B? Could you explain the steps you took to complete you mod?
  2. MNiceGuy

    Hardware 40 pin GBA with white tab LCD perfect solution!

    Glad you got it working! If you really want a brighter backlight, look here
  3. MNiceGuy

    Hardware 40 pin GBA with white tab LCD perfect solution!

    The DSLite definitely has better screens than the 101 but that is to be somewhat expected. The DSLite is newer, better tech. A properly-adjusted AGS-101 is not going to compete with the screens in a DSLite. If you really want to make the backlight of the AGS-101 brighter than the typical...
  4. MNiceGuy

    Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

    That's actually a very good question. I would like to know myself. Personally I think the quality of the Chinese screens is quite good. On RetroRGB, there's mention that the aftermarket screen "isn't nearly as good" and in my experience I can't agree with that assessment. I'm of the belief...
  5. MNiceGuy

    Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

    Of course this is a matter of opinion but I find the backlight brightness when using a normal ribbon jumpered to DA1 (or equivalent) to be more than adequate. I considered switching adapters to an adjustable version but I just can't convince myself I'd actually use that feature.
  6. MNiceGuy

    Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

    For the backlight mod, there are two motherboards for the GBA. The original 40-pin and the later 32-pin. The 32-pin is generally more desirable because it requires no modification beyond optionally soldering the LCD adapter ribbon's power to a given point on the mainboard. You will want a Type-B...
  7. MNiceGuy

    Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

    First off, I just tried your method last night and it looks great. Thanks to you, malheur and gaggi! I wondering if there is any consideration to the other components we isolate when we remove R16, R17, C33, C54, and Q3? In the attached file, I've highlighted in yellow the components removed...
  8. MNiceGuy

    Hardware 40 pin GBA with white tab LCD perfect solution!

    Malheur, Thanks for the information. I completely agree with your assessment. I've had screens which need a very precise adjustment of the potentiometer to eliminate the interlace lines. It would seem the Type-B cable is good for people that don't want to solder/desolder but there is a risk...
  9. MNiceGuy

    Hardware 40 pin GBA with white tab LCD perfect solution!

    In fairness this is with only one GBA with one particular screen and cable. The 'interlacing' is subtle but it's enough that it would bother me if I used it a lot. I am going to try a Type-A cable along with the 'component removal' (outlined on pg.60 of the other big thread on the topic) to see...
  10. MNiceGuy

    Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

    I admittedly didn't thoroughly read through the entire thread so I apologize if this was already asked: This thread is linked in a RetroRGB summary of the Gameboy line which mentions this particular mod. In that section, the author states, and I'm paraphrasing, that the image quality of a...
  11. MNiceGuy

    Hardware 40 pin GBA with white tab LCD perfect solution!

    I did a little more research on this Type B ribbon. It's clear now why the GBA's pot no longer can adjust the screen. In a Type A cable (no resistors), pin 29 (VCOM) of the GBA was routed to pin 30 (COM) of the 101 screen. Since the GBA's potentiometer is tied to VCOM, this allowed some tuning...
  12. MNiceGuy

    Hardware 40 pin GBA with white tab LCD perfect solution!

    malheur- Thanks for the great guide. I have a 40-pin GBA with a white (Type B) screen. I originally used the Type A cable but had to solder REVC to GND to prevent the image from being washed out. I did however notice a slight ghosting in some cases but otherwise the image was stable. For...
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