Switch OLED with a mod chip GigaDevice GD32F350 - CBT6

CrisMod

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Hello everyone, these days I'm gathering a ton of information to be as prepared as possible for the steps I need to take to modify my Switch. Once I've collected all the information, I'll start the process using the specific tools I've purchased.

In my information table today, I understood that there are approximately 3/4 mod chips for the Switch OLED with various "cables boards" and versions. Surprisingly, my mod indicates version 11 (eleventh version) of a "cable board." This should be the latest one currently available on the market.

Returning to the topic of Mod Chips, from what I've gathered, there are the following:

1. HwFly Chip + Firmware included in the chip. The first version of modifications.
2. Raspberry PicoFly/RP2020/RP2040 Chip (firmware to be downloaded from GitHub and then inserted into the chip).
3 .Instinct NX Chip with firmware included in the chip.

Now, I find myself with a chip named as per the title, "GigaDevice GD32F350 - CBT6," but I can't find any information related to this chipset. Is it a chipset from the RP2020 or RP2040 family? And are its performances good?

I tried connecting the board with the chipset via USB to the computer, but the computer doesn't recognize it. My questions are:

1. Does the chipset in question already have firmware inside it, right?
2. In case I want to check what type of firmware is already installed on the chip, which tool/driver should I use to interface with the PC?
3. Where I should check for the latest firmware release, for this chipset?



I hope someone can provide with detailed answers.
Thank you all in advance.
 

Eveldee

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Hello everyone, these days I'm gathering a ton of information to be as prepared as possible for the steps I need to take to modify my Switch. Once I've collected all the information, I'll start the process using the specific tools I've purchased.

In my information table today, I understood that there are approximately 3/4 mod chips for the Switch OLED with various "cables boards" and versions. Surprisingly, my mod indicates version 11 (eleventh version) of a "cable board." This should be the latest one currently available on the market.

Returning to the topic of Mod Chips, from what I've gathered, there are the following:

1. HwFly Chip + Firmware included in the chip. The first version of modifications.
2. Raspberry PicoFly/RP2020/RP2040 Chip (firmware to be downloaded from GitHub and then inserted into the chip).
3 .Instinct NX Chip with firmware included in the chip.

Now, I find myself with a chip named as per the title, "GigaDevice GD32F350 - CBT6," but I can't find any information related to this chipset. Is it a chipset from the RP2020 or RP2040 family? And are its performances good?

I tried connecting the board with the chipset via USB to the computer, but the computer doesn't recognize it. My questions are:

1. Does the chipset in question already have firmware inside it, right?
2. In case I want to check what type of firmware is already installed on the chip, which tool/driver should I use to interface with the PC?
3. Where I should check for the latest firmware release, for this chipset?



I hope someone can provide with detailed answers.
Thank you all in advance.
Do you have a photo of the chip? From what I remember, the HWFLY do use an ARM microcontroller so that could be the one used in it.
 
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CrisMod

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Do you have a photo of the chip? From what I remember, the HWFLY do use an ARM microcontroller so that could be the one used in it.
Hello @Eveldee , thank you for asking for a picture because now I've noticed that the photos in the product description, where it referred to a piece labeled "Version 11," don't have any writing on the piece (perhaps it's their internal numbering to indicate the eleventh revision?!).
In any case, this is the kit I have, but also I'm not sure if I need to use the soldering points 3v3, C, D, A, and B on the main chip board, or if it's enough to use the various connection ports once the various board pieces are soldered in their respective positions. I've seen millions of videos with different methodologies, but for a clean job that reflects my kit, do you have a guide to recommend, please?

This it's the pic of the kit:
1708861392852.jpg
 

CrisMod

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You have a HWFLY OLED V4 chip.
Perfect :D, I ordered that chip a few weeks ago when I wasn't well-informed about all the chipset details. I was initially searching for the Picofly, and now I find something different in my hands.

Alright, do you have more information about the firmware, how to upgrade, and where I should refer, as mentioned in my first message in this thread, please?
Post automatically merged:

I believe I've found a similar diagram for my chip. Can anyone confirm if it matches the picture below, please?

I think the main difference is that the C point (DAT0) needs to be connected to my additional piece, which is not present in this diagram. Instead, I should connect it to my extra piece at the soldering point C.

As for the B point (RST), it should be connected as shown in the diagram. Apart from that, everything else remains the same as the diagram, except that instead of soldering the 3v3, C, D, A, and GND, I will use my extra piece and connect it to the port connection. Am I correct?

OLED-DIAGRAM-CHIP-OLED1920.jpg



Extra piece.png
 
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MrGrinch

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C point goes to the small rectangular flex that tucks under the eMMC for DAT0. You can go directly to the board as well, they're just trying to make it easier
 

CrisMod

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C point goes to the small rectangular flex that tucks under the eMMC for DAT0. You can go directly to the board as well, they're just trying to make it easier
Thank you @MrGrinch, yes this C point I got, but I saw many videos that they don't connect the B point from the back of the Switch motherboard (as the DIAGRAM) to the chipset mod board on B point ; this makes me confused if the installers are omitted this point in purpose or for careless reason. Any idea about the B point?
 

MrGrinch

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They're either using a different chip or not showing it, for yours you need to connect the B point. Overall your assumptions are correct the flex cable takes care of a lot of points for you, you can leave it out and solder the points with wire leads instead of course.
 
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