Hacking Switch OLED Blue Screen after HWFLY Installation Attempt

[cch504]

Hey fellow hackers,

I recently embarked on a modding journey for my beloved Nintendo Switch, hoping to enhance its capabilities and explore the world of homebrew games and applications. However, my attempt to install the HWFLY modchip didn't go as planned, and I find myself in need of your expertise to help me figure out what went wrong.

To provide you with a better understanding of my situation, I'll explain the steps I followed and the issues I encountered along the way. I'll also provide high-quality images and diode measurements for critical points on the console's motherboard, in the hope that they will aid in identifying any potential mistakes or failures.

Here's a brief rundown of the steps I took during the installation process:

1. I carefully disassembled my Nintendo Switch, taking necessary precautions to avoid any damage.
2. I located the correct points on the motherboard for soldering the HWFLY modchip, referring to detailed guides and tutorials available online.
3. With the modchip in hand, I proceeded to solder it to the designated points, ensuring proper connections and secure solder joints. All points on the chip had a good reading on my multimeter.
4. Once the soldering was complete, I reassembled the console and eagerly powered it on, expecting the modchip to work.

However, upon turning on the Nintendo Switch, a series of unexpected issues arose:

1. Initially, the modchip displayed a blinking purple light, followed by a yellow light, and eventually settled into a constant pulsing green light.
2. Simultaneously, the screen displayed a persistent blue screen, causing concern and confusion.
3. In my search for answers, I stumbled upon a tweet from the esteemed Sthetix, which suggested that these symptoms may indicate a faulty modchip. Considering this possibility, I decided to remove the modchip.

Even after removing the modchip, disconnecting all cables, and removing the DAT0 adapter, the problem persisted. Each time I turned on the console, I was greeted with the immediate and unwavering blue screen of death. I then proceeded to add the DAT0 adapter again to help me in this troubleshooting phase.

At this point, I'm turning to this community, humbly seeking your expertise and guidance to help me identify the root cause of these issues. I've attached high-quality images of the current state of the motherboard. Additionally, I have recorded diode measurements at these points to aid in the analysis.

Multimeter Measurements in Diode Mode:

DAT0-GND = 0.650/0.426
DAT0-3.3V = 1.07/1.118
CLK-GND = 0.649/0.427
CLK-3.3V = 1.06/1.1159
CMD-GND = 0.535/0.462
CMD-3.3V = 0.925/1.139

I hope that by sharing these details and seeking your collective wisdom, we can uncover the root cause of the problem together. Any suggestions, insights, or recommendations you can provide would be invaluable to me.

Thank you all in advance for your time and support.

 

[grubgrub]

Hey fellow hackers,

I recently embarked on a modding journey for my beloved Nintendo Switch, hoping to enhance its capabilities and explore the world of homebrew games and applications. However, my attempt to install the HWFLY modchip didn't go as planned, and I find myself in need of your expertise to help me figure out what went wrong.

To provide you with a better understanding of my situation, I'll explain the steps I followed and the issues I encountered along the way. I'll also provide high-quality images and diode measurements for critical points on the console's motherboard, in the hope that they will aid in identifying any potential mistakes or failures.

Here's a brief rundown of the steps I took during the installation process:

1. I carefully disassembled my Nintendo Switch, taking necessary precautions to avoid any damage.
2. I located the correct points on the motherboard for soldering the HWFLY modchip, referring to detailed guides and tutorials available online.
3. With the modchip in hand, I proceeded to solder it to the designated points, ensuring proper connections and secure solder joints. All points on the chip had a good reading on my multimeter.
4. Once the soldering was complete, I reassembled the console and eagerly powered it on, expecting the modchip to work.

However, upon turning on the Nintendo Switch, a series of unexpected issues arose:

1. Initially, the modchip displayed a blinking purple light, followed by a yellow light, and eventually settled into a constant pulsing green light.
2. Simultaneously, the screen displayed a persistent blue screen, causing concern and confusion.
3. In my search for answers, I stumbled upon a tweet from the esteemed Sthetix, which suggested that these symptoms may indicate a faulty modchip. Considering this possibility, I decided to remove the modchip.

Even after removing the modchip, disconnecting all cables, and removing the DAT0 adapter, the problem persisted. Each time I turned on the console, I was greeted with the immediate and unwavering blue screen of death. I then proceeded to add the DAT0 adapter again to help me in this troubleshooting phase.

At this point, I'm turning to this community, humbly seeking your expertise and guidance to help me identify the root cause of these issues. I've attached high-quality images of the current state of the motherboard. Additionally, I have recorded diode measurements at these points to aid in the analysis.

Multimeter Measurements in Diode Mode:

DAT0-GND = 0.650/0.426
DAT0-3.3V = 1.07/1.118
CLK-GND = 0.649/0.427
CLK-3.3V = 1.06/1.1159
CMD-GND = 0.535/0.462
CMD-3.3V = 0.925/1.139

I hope that by sharing these details and seeking your collective wisdom, we can uncover the root cause of the problem together. Any suggestions, insights, or recommendations you can provide would be invaluable to me.

Thank you all in advance for your time and support.

Could be CPU/APU issue?

From these videos they had to reflow to fix it, but im not 100% sure if you have the same issue.

Check out time 7m 40seconds



or

 

[cch504]

Could be CPU/APU issue?

From these videos they had to reflow to fix it, but im not 100% sure if you have the same issue.

Check out time 7m 40seconds



or

I did as suggested in the video and pressed the APU but no success. Still shows a blue screen.