Picofly AIO Thread

[RedFawkes]

Hi All,

I seem to have an issue with an OLED right now..

The system boots to OFW without issue but the error code I'm getting on the picofly is =*==
(eMMC test failure - read failed)

My DAT0 point went perfectly. Reballed so no adapter. I'm getting a diode reading of 700 on the DAT0.

Full list of diode values are:
RST .000
CMD .701
CPU .270
3.3v .729
DAT0 .702
CLK .714
GND .000

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edit:
I'm wondering if I need to add 100ohm resistors instead of 47ohm but I believe that's advised for solving slow glitch times rather than the issue I have.
Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe I need to reball the eMMC again..

Post automatically merged: Aug 20, 2023

Ok so I'm a bit lost with this one so I removed the chip and all wiring.

I've just checked the tiny caps on the APU and the almost the entire row is showing continuity accross the caps.
I've turned the board over and found that many of the big caps on the other side of the APU appear to be shorted too.

I'm confident that all my solder work went according to plan while installing the mod so I'm a bit lost as to how this could've happened.

Is this a dead APU? If it is then I can't understand how that could happen during a straight forward install and I'm hoping someone can point me in the direction of a fix.

I haven't tried re-assembling yet but using a USB-C power tester on the board it shows approximately 15v and 0.00A.

 

[Dee87]

Hi All,

I seem to have an issue with an OLED right now..

The system boots to OFW without issue but the error code I'm getting on the picofly is =*==
(eMMC test failure - read failed)

My DAT0 point went perfectly. Reballed so no adapter. I'm getting a diode reading of 700 on the DAT0.

Full list of diode values are:
RST .000
CMD .701
CPU .270
3.3v .729
DAT0 .702
CLK .714
GND .000

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edit:
I'm wondering if I need to add 100ohm resistors instead of 47ohm but I believe that's advised for solving slow glitch times rather than the issue I have.
Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe I need to reball the eMMC again..

Post automatically merged: Aug 20, 2023

Ok so I'm a bit lost with this one so I removed the chip and all wiring.

I've just checked the tiny caps on the APU and the almost the entire row is showing continuity accross the caps.
I've turned the board over and found that many of the big caps on the other side of the APU appear to be shorted too.

I'm confident that all my solder work went according to plan while installing the mod so I'm a bit lost as to how this could've happened.

Is this a dead APU? If it is then I can't understand how that could happen during a straight forward install and I'm hoping someone can point me in the direction of a fix.

I haven't tried re-assembling yet but using a USB-C power tester on the board it shows approximately 15v and 0.00A.

That "short" on the apu caps is normal if u look at ur meter its gonna show 001 so really low that's why u get a beeping .
On the back side I never measured so I couldn't tell u anything about that.

 

[jkyoho]

Hi All,

I seem to have an issue with an OLED right now..

The system boots to OFW without issue but the error code I'm getting on the picofly is =*==
(eMMC test failure - read failed)

My DAT0 point went perfectly. Reballed so no adapter. I'm getting a diode reading of 700 on the DAT0.

Full list of diode values are:
RST .000
CMD .701
CPU .270
3.3v .729
DAT0 .702
CLK .714
GND .000

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edit:
I'm wondering if I need to add 100ohm resistors instead of 47ohm but I believe that's advised for solving slow glitch times rather than the issue I have.
Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe I need to reball the eMMC again..

Post automatically merged: Aug 20, 2023

Ok so I'm a bit lost with this one so I removed the chip and all wiring.

I've just checked the tiny caps on the APU and the almost the entire row is showing continuity accross the caps.
I've turned the board over and found that many of the big caps on the other side of the APU appear to be shorted too.

I'm confident that all my solder work went according to plan while installing the mod so I'm a bit lost as to how this could've happened.

Is this a dead APU? If it is then I can't understand how that could happen during a straight forward install and I'm hoping someone can point me in the direction of a fix.

I haven't tried re-assembling yet but using a USB-C power tester on the board it shows approximately 15v and 0.00A.

If you could boot to OFW, why would you think CPU dead?
If your RST reading .000, why would you think that normal?

 

[RedFawkes]

That "short" on the apu caps is normal if u look at ur meter its gonna show 001 so really low that's why u get a beeping .
On the back side I never measured so I couldn't tell u anything about that.

If you could boot to OFW, why would you think CPU dead?
If your RST reading .000, why would you think that normal?

Thanks Dee87, I figured out that was ok after all.
Maybe I've watched too many YouTube videos that suggest shorts across caps need to be resolved.

Thanks Jkyoho too.
OFW failed to boot at one point (might've been my imagination), so I figured the game was up

So, anyhoo.. after thinking anything and everything else was wrong with this board and assuming the worst I decided to bite the bullet and try reballing the eMMC again..

Please see attached pic and promise not to laugh!!!!!!..

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

Here are the two most viable options, I personally went with the second option.

Sorry, but I have a question. When installing the rp2040 do we have to keep the type c port/ buttons for any reason? or do we have to prep some files onto it first then remove the buttons/port. Also, should they not be removed until I know its fully operational? (just curious)

 

[lightninjay]

Sorry, but I have a question. When installing the rp2040 do we have to keep the type c port/ buttons for any reason? or do we have to prep some files onto it first then remove the buttons/port. Also, should they not be removed until I know its fully operational? (just curious)

Read the guide, this is answered.

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

Read the guide, this is answered.

Sigh...I was going through this forum because I seen someone have a issue related to removing the port before prepping and there was another way to get it working suggested by someone else, but never mind. Sorry for the disturbance in the force >_>

 

[abal1000x]

Sigh...I was going through this forum because I seen someone have a issue related to removing the port before prepping and there was another way to get it working suggested by someone else, but never mind. Sorry for the disturbance in the force >_>

Maybe because you asking an obvious question, that people will assume you have not read the 'official' guide.

You need to flash the firmware, make sure the firmware is already flashed. Then remove the port. You might not remove the port, but you cannot close the case of the switch at the end.

Or you can simply buy rp2040-tiny, since the usb is pluggable.

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

Maybe because you asking an obvious question, that people will assume you have not read the 'official' guide.

You need to flash the firmware, make sure the firmware is already flashed. Then remove the port. You might not remove the port, but you cannot close the case of the switch at the end.

Or you can simply buy rp2040-tiny, since the usb is pluggable.

This is all I wanted to be fair. I also get it definitely was a obvious question.

Not gonna be pissy about it. I just excused myself from going any further about it . I have the guide sitting right infront of me

 

[TheBad]

I think what he means is that he puts a larger piece of tape on the rp2040-zero and then uses the knife to remove the part of the tape that sits on top of the chip itself to provide more clearance (make it sit lower). Not the best way to do things but people learn from mistakes so....

Yes I remove small piece of tape that sits on RP2040 IC. Without doing that the board will dangles.

 

[Dee87]

Thanks Dee87, I figured out that was ok after all.
Maybe I've watched too many YouTube videos that suggest shorts across caps need to be resolved.

Thanks Jkyoho too.
OFW failed to boot at one point (might've been my imagination), so I figured the game was up

So, anyhoo.. after thinking anything and everything else was wrong with this board and assuming the worst I decided to bite the bullet and try reballing the eMMC again..

Please see attached pic and promise not to laugh!!!!!!..

Hahahahaha
Its pin 3 not 4 ;-)

U wanna hear something funny I've done the same thing on my first reball :-)

But I saw it right before I reflowed the chip :-)

 

[RedFawkes]

Hahahahaha
Its pin 3 not 4 ;-)

U wanna hear something funny I've done the same thing on my first reball :-)

But I saw it right before I reflowed the chip :-)

Thanks for not laughing!!

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

Installation with soldering points on the eMMC memory, switch V2​

View attachment 378575View attachment 378576View attachment 378580View attachment 378577View attachment 378578View attachment 378579

What microscope are you using!? This is the cleanest install I've seen here so far

 

[Takezo-San]

Hi All,

I seem to have an issue with an OLED right now..

The system boots to OFW without issue but the error code I'm getting on the picofly is =*==
(eMMC test failure - read failed)

My DAT0 point went perfectly. Reballed so no adapter. I'm getting a diode reading of 700 on the DAT0.

Full list of diode values are:
RST .000
CMD .701
CPU .270
3.3v .729
DAT0 .702
CLK .714
GND .000

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edit:
I'm wondering if I need to add 100ohm resistors instead of 47ohm but I believe that's advised for solving slow glitch times rather than the issue I have.
Otherwise, I'm thinking that maybe I need to reball the eMMC again..

Post automatically merged: Aug 20, 2023

Ok so I'm a bit lost with this one so I removed the chip and all wiring.

I've just checked the tiny caps on the APU and the almost the entire row is showing continuity accross the caps.
I've turned the board over and found that many of the big caps on the other side of the APU appear to be shorted too.

I'm confident that all my solder work went according to plan while installing the mod so I'm a bit lost as to how this could've happened.

Is this a dead APU? If it is then I can't understand how that could happen during a straight forward install and I'm hoping someone can point me in the direction of a fix.

I haven't tried re-assembling yet but using a USB-C power tester on the board it shows approximately 15v and 0.00A.

Hey, I have the same error as you. Did you get it glitching?

 

[RedFawkes]

Hey, I have the same error as you. Did you get it glitching?

Yes, I reballed it after correcting the DAT0 point and all was well


Edit: I've just seen your other post on the other picofly thread..
When I reinstalled the chip I found the CLK line also could've been better.

If you're having issues try taking it off and replacing it with a thin enameled wire. I find it to be lighter and puts less stress on the CLK point.

I realise you've sealed it in solder mask but that should come off fairly easily if you poke at it gently with a needle. Don't push too hard or you could damage the connection. Just push hard enough until you see the solder mask begin to flake off.

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

New rev RP2040 1.1 works great on Lite. Nice install. Fast boots

Where's the resistors? Or the lite doesn't need? More pics of your entire install for me?! Pls? . U could pm them would be even better

 

[QuiTim]

Where's the resistors? Or the lite doesn't need? More pics of your entire install for me?! Pls? . U could pm them would be even better

All picofly installations need to have resistors on all the 3 lines. He is using the RP2040-Tiny which has the resistors included (3pcs of 47r0).
The installation is the same as RP2040-Zero so you can use the same pictures from any previous installations you find here in forum.

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

Oh okay I didn't even realize. I have the guide with the install n such. Honestly wish I bought the tiny now. Looks cleaner (obviously(

All picofly installations need to have resistors on all the 3 lines. He is using the RP2040-Tiny which has the resistors included (3pcs of 47r0).
The installation is the same as RP2040-Zero so you can use that same pictures from any previous installations you find here in forum.

 

[Takezo-San]

Yes, I reballed it after correcting the DAT0 point and all was well


Edit: I've just seen your other post on the other picofly thread..
When I reinstalled the chip I found the CLK line also could've been better.

If you're having issues try taking it off and replacing it with a thin enameled wire. I find it to be lighter and puts less stress on the CLK point.

I realise you've sealed it in solder mask but that should come off fairly easily if you poke at it gently with a needle. Don't push too hard or you could damage the connection. Just push hard enough until you see the solder mask begin to flake off.

Thanks. Will try it out.

 

[ojobenito]

Hi.
Some time ago I had a problem with a V1 Switch that had the Orange Screen error after installing Picofly. If I launched atmosphere, it displayed the 2 Atmosphere screens (text and logo), and then Black Screen, and after some seconds, Orange Screen. If I booted System Firmware bypassing picofly and hekate pushing VOL+ & -, black screen and then Orange Screen.

I've made quite a few successful installations before and never had this problem. I also have 20+ years of microsoldering experience, so I can make clean installations and clean soldering points.
I thought the orange screen was a problem with the Wifi chip, even if I didn't damaged any traces or pads making the installation.
So I desoldered everything and tried to boot the switch. It was kind of weird, now with all the hours I've been in front of this console, I can't rememberif it booted or not. I think not, but it booted into Recovery Mode. Under recovery mode, I made a "Reset preserving saves & accounts" and it did it successfully. Then I entered recovery mode and did a system upgrade. It searched for all the wifi networks, I connected to mine, and it downloaded the firmware with no problems.
I did a couple of bootings / powering offs of the console and everything now looked fine and working properly.

So, discarding the wifi chip, I made a new picofly installation, triple checking every single solder point. So, I prepare the SD with all the updated files. Hekate loads up fine. Atmophere shows both screens, and then the Nintendo Switch & Logo screen appears, and it hangs there. No black screen, no Orange Screen. I stays there.
If I boot System Firmware bypassing Picofly, the same happens. Nintendo logo, then Nintendo Switch & Logo screen, and it stays there.

Under Hekate, I went to Nand Info and everything looks fine, BUT, I clicked on "Benchmark", and it starts benchmarking, but halfway it gives an error and forces me to press any key to exit.

So, is the eMMC the problem? Can it be fixed? I saw a program called EmmcHaccGen that I think it can rebuild and flash a new nand. Should I use that?

Thanks a lot for all the help you can provide me. I'm desperate with this console.

EDIT / UPDATE: I tried another MicroSD brand and now after the Nintendo Switch Logo, instead of hanging there, I get an Atmosphere error with Error Code: 2002-3539.
I looked for that error, and I read that 2002 is a Filesystem error. So maybe I'm right and the eMMC is corrupted? Should I try to flash it with any program?