Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

frozenboy

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Well, i don't think that comparing a (originaly) $60 SX and $150hwfly hardware that was mass produced with the single purpose in mind with $3 RP2040 general purpose board is fair.
SX was designed by people who reverse engineered and found an exploit in Nintys design so they probably had more knowledge about these things than most of us here combined, but that does not mean that their design is 100% compatible with a totaly different board with different circuitry. Adjustment/compromises need to be made so we can "profit" from this cheap open source project that is now availabe to us, and even those who still continue to use hwfly/instinct are benefiting from the drastic price drop that picofly brought.
With my humble knowledge, the hardware of sx or hwlfy doesnt cost much as $60, sx include the price of the license for sxos, run XCI directly and mount as gamecard and license encrypted with serial of each sw. An fpga is used make it hard to reverse engineered and specific for the task. In my opinion, a lot of the price come from the software and security.
Hwfly from the start try to replicated it without any improvement, and make some major bugs. and the price doesnt mean it better. It only show that the demand for glitching sw is so huge that we would bought hwfly for $150. Hwfly also come with lot of revision to fix bug and improve stability. Picofly is the living evident of the fact that glitching could be much simple and efficient with low cost. hwfly also make new revision with rp2040 chip prove that. Now glitching only required a multi-purpose 3$ microchip and the opensource, thank to the community and rehius.
Pretty sure sx team know deeply about the way N make switch and run game on it than anyone. They sx core is great and could rival to original sw with all the feature original sw has. And they got sue due to the fact that knowledge is exclusive by N though the pattern, and using it is illegal
To me sx chip is still the best (closed source) chip ever, with a good price, stability, lot of feature that until now we unable to replicate, and their down fall is mandatory for N to keep their interest from software.
Picofly is great due to the fact the source is now open and the price is so cheap, everyone could contribute and help other debug it, and that make moding is so fun, we could try another way and find new things and learn from it. Stability is a decent trade-off
 

QuiTim

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Ok, I attach the photo/video. In addition, I took the 3,3V from nand because I ripped the 3,3v capacitor and I wanted avoid do more damage in the area. The version of firmware is fw_2.74.uf2.
The error code says *= CMD not connected. Can you check that line with multimeter and see if you have continuity to Pico.
Also make a close photo of CMD solder point
Edit: why not solder gnd on the designated point?
Edit2: @Jagovi Also whats going on here (see picture)? Maybe a short?
Post automatically merged:

With my humble knowledge, the hardware of sx or hwlfy doesnt cost much as $60, sx include the price of the license for sxos, run XCI directly and mount as gamecard and license encrypted with serial of each sw. An fpga is used make it hard to reverse engineered and specific for the task. In my opinion, a lot of the price come from the software and security.
Hwfly from the start try to replicated it without any improvement, and make some major bugs. and the price doesnt mean it better. It only show that the demand for glitching sw is so huge that we would bought hwfly for $150. Hwfly also come with lot of revision to fix bug and improve stability. Picofly is the living evident of the fact that glitching could be much simple and efficient with low cost. hwfly also make new revision with rp2040 chip prove that. Now glitching only required a multi-purpose 3$ microchip and the opensource, thank to the community and rehius.
Pretty sure sx team know deeply about the way N make switch and run game on it than anyone. They sx core is great and could rival to original sw with all the feature original sw has. And they got sue due to the fact that knowledge is exclusive by N though the pattern, and using it is illegal
To me sx chip is still the best (closed source) chip ever, with a good price, stability, lot of feature that until now we unable to replicate, and their down fall is mandatory for N to keep their interest from software.
Picofly is great due to the fact the source is now open and the price is so cheap, everyone could contribute and help other debug it, and that make moding is so fun, we could try another way and find new things and learn from it. Stability is a decent trade-off
I fully agree with you. I was just merely stating that we cannot expect the same level of efficiency (at this point) from open source hardware/software as that of a mod chip which was well established and was making huge profit hence the incentive of people behind it to make it work as good as possible.
Pico has some drawbacks and some unknowns but it will get there eventually with all our help.
 

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Switxh

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yep, that make me wonder what happen make they change the original design. Did they change the way hwfly glitching so more power needed, or just make it more stable, but I guess the cap above sd card cant provide enough power to supply both sd card and the glitching at the same time.
Yeah I am not sure exactly why they changed it but if I had to guess it was because a lot of people ripped the capacitor off after soldering it down from what I have seen. Incidentally my first modchip install was a HWFLY Lite and the capacitor didn't rip off for me but after only a day or so of using it the capacitor blew and developed a short which caused a black screen if I had my SD inserted. I changed the capacitor and then used alternate points for 3.3v and GND that Sthetix showed in his diagram for OLED chip on LITE motherboard. It's been fine since then.

So I'd say its a combination of issues like the capacitor being ripped off and in my case the capacitor blew after maybe a day of having the modchip installed.
 
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frozenboy

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Yeah I am not sure exactly why they changed it but if I had to guess it was because a lot of people ripped the capacitor off after soldering it down from what I have seen. Incidentally my first modchip install was a HWFLY Lite and the capacitor didn't rip off for me but after only a day or so of using it the capacitor blew and developed a short which caused a black screen if I had my SD inserted. I changed the capacitor and then used alternate points for 3.3v and GND that Sthetix showed in his diagram for OLED chip on LITE motherboard. It's been fine since then.

So I'd say its a combination of issues like the capacitor being ripped off and in my case the capacitor blew after maybe a day of having the modchip installed.
Oh, I've installed a dozen sx lite and nothing like that happen, but the cap is easy to break off for sure, with the tension from the cable, it make me cautious not to bridge or pull out the cap. I havent install any hwfly due the the fact that price is quite high, event higher than the handheld itself.
The picofly make me feel comfortable when we could using small cable for all the point, event the cpu cap is much easier, but take more time to tin the cable. But with a good soldering iron. It quite stable with fast glitching time. I am even removed a hwfly that cost me $150 since the time it still high and put picofly instead
 

Danook28

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I think this chip on the motherboard i try fix it need to replace this chip when i conect to charger it become heat feeling by toach fingers. The battery give dc voltage to 3.602 v it me be coz the console not tearn on.
 

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Dee87

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I think this chip on the motherboard i try fix it need to replace this chip when i conect to charger it become heat feeling by toach fingers. The battery give dc voltage to 3.602 v it me be coz the console not tearn on.
Did u find any shorts on the caps around it?
Its normal that it gets warm that's the charging ic
 
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Dlacica

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My first rp2040-tiny install, first start, direct success. Only problem is that led on the rp2040-tiny is flashing red, not green. Do I need to connect some points on the rp2040-tiny?
 

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Jagovi

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The error code says *= CMD not connected. Can you check that line with multimeter and see if you have continuity to Pico.
Also make a close photo of CMD solder point
Edit: why not solder gnd on the designated point?
Edit2: @Jagovi Also whats going on here (see picture)? Maybe a short?
Post automatically merged:


I fully agree with you. I was just merely stating that we cannot expect the same level of efficiency (at this point) from open source hardware/software as that of a mod chip which was well established and was making huge profit hence the incentive of people behind it to make it work as good as possible.
Pico has some drawbacks and some unknowns but it will get there eventually with all our help.
I have checked all the point and all were right. After that I have check resistors and the CMD resistors was broken. I have replaced it and now everything is working. Thank so much for the help!
 

FreeLander

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View attachment 378339
screenshot from rp2040-zero c-port pinout.
If green cable goes to breakout board D+, that's correct.
Thanks, what about the button? How can I initiate flashing mode with wires?
Post automatically merged:

I just wanted to share a random pic I took during an install today to appreciate the picture quality of my microscope. It's an Andonstar AD207S. I recommend it
I just switched from using two MOSFETs to only one. Works great. Now, should I do one cap too? Any effect on long-term reliability?
 

lightninjay

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Thanks, what about the button? How can I initiate flashing mode with wires?
Jumper either of the bottom pads of the boot button to GND/the top pads of the boot button on the Picofly, and plug in to USB. If it's detected and the window pops up for flashing, you can disconnect the jumper, and proceed with flashing as normal.
 
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FreeLander

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Jumper either of the bottom pads of the boot button to GND/the top pads of the boot button on the Picofly, and plug in to USB. If it's detected and the window pops up for flashing, you can disconnect the jumper, and proceed with flashing as normal.
Excuse my ignorance. One bottom boot pad to GND, and top bottom pad to where exactly? Sorry again.
 

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