oh, that is not the pad that matters, I meant you were too close to the oscillator, there are important traces and vias close to the pad 20 that you could cut or short
oh, that is not the pad that matters, I meant you were too close to the oscillator, there are important traces and vias close to the pad 20 that you could cut or short
Q: rp2040 boards support
A: WaveShare 2040-zero/one, xiao-rp2040, adafruit itsybitsy (Pi Pico is not supportedfor now)
Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point
Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot (sysNAND data can be damaged).
Q: Does the firmware has learning? How to reset statistics
A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.
Q: open source?
A: no
Q: why you made it?
A: to prove it possible!
Q: run Atmosphere?
A: no piracy
v2.5 firmware had a bug with BOOT0 corruption. To recover it:
- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- update to the latest official firmware over Wi-Fi
- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- perform a full system reset
- show firmware information
- update firmware from SD card (place update.bin into the root folder)
- rollback to the backup firmware slot
- reset learning statistics
- dump / write sdloader
if you have an rp2040-zero from waveshare/ali then it has a neopixel. It is used for diagnosing proper firmware flashes as well as console glitching. If you plug it in, and flash the uf2 firmware to it and immediately see a red light after flashing (this is not the same as flashing, then unplugging and replugging), then no rgb jumper needs to be made. If on the other hand, you get one quick green flashing light, then you need to bridge the jumper pads indicated to swap the LED colors for proper diagnoses capability.
I had seen someone do it, its pretty sketchy and even they recommended against it.
Trying to remember who did it and where I saw it.thanks, if you remember where you saw it please let me know, I'm interested to know
Can someone please tell me what voltage the RST point needs to be when checking it to ground? I'm getting around 3.5v...is that normal on a switch lite? Thanks!
Can someone please tell me what voltage the RST point needs to be when checking it to ground? I'm getting around 3.5v...is that normal on a switch lite? Thanks!
Can someone please tell me what voltage the RST point needs to be when checking it to ground? I'm getting around 3.5v...is that normal on a switch lite? Thanks!
Hello @FreeLander, looks like you found the dangerous incorrect diagram by sthetix where the 3.3v point is actually direct 4.2v right from the battery. Be careful, such overvoltage may fry your RP Pico and the console. Please use the proper 3.3v point here: View attachment 366724
Hello, POPO. Thank you.
I did this and I'm still getting zero on diode mode. I can't tell what is it I'm doing wrong.
I even removed the caps entirely and soldered to the pads directly, but still no luck, and even worse, the console wouldn't boot.
Thankfully, @rehius anticipated noobs like me would do this, so I did his trick by salvaging the caps off an rp2040 and re-soldering them to the console. Now it boots fine, but I'm still determined to figure out how to get a successful glitch with MOSFETs.
I followed every step. 0.2mm enameled, two MOSFETs, short wires, close grounds.
Hello, POPO. Thank you.
I did this and I'm still getting zero on diode mode. I can't tell what is it I'm doing wrong.
I even removed the caps entirely and soldered to the pads directly, but still no luck, and even worse, the console wouldn't boot.
Thankfully, @rehius anticipated noobs like me would do this, so I did his trick by salvaging the caps off an rp2040 and re-soldering them to the console. Now it boots fine, but I'm still determined to figure out how to get a successful glitch with MOSFETs.
I followed every step. 0.2mm enameled, two MOSFETs, short wires, close grounds.
Hello, POPO. Thank you.
I did this and I'm still getting zero on diode mode. I can't tell what is it I'm doing wrong.
I even removed the caps entirely and soldered to the pads directly, but still no luck, and even worse, the console wouldn't boot.
Thankfully, @rehius anticipated noobs like me would do this, so I did his trick by salvaging the caps off an rp2040 and re-soldering them to the console. Now it boots fine, but I'm still determined to figure out how to get a successful glitch with MOSFETs.
I followed every step. 0.2mm enameled, two MOSFETs, short wires, close grounds.
Wil try to do a better pic. I have not tried the flex on it since it's a v1 experimental console, I'm kind of hesitant about wasting a cable on it. I'm interested in doing MOSFETs moving forward, that's why I'm experimenting with this v1. I guess my question is, shouldn't I be getting a diode reading on G point?
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