Got an original xbox for free. How to I get it working, and how do I mod?

[vb_encryption_vb]

Depending on version, TSOP flash it and hotswap.

 

[Daggot]

You don't need action replay. I used an Xbox to female USB adapter (you can buy one on ebay for $3 or make your own) and a compatible usb 2.0 flash drive with my copy of splinter cell(only certain USB devices will work and in my case I was able to use a PSP which will only substitute as one with a memory stick thats 2gb max). I hacked my console with just that and installed a new dash/began burning things. Then after that I TSOP flashed it when I wanted to replace the HDD with an 80gb one because I felt like it was less effort than upgrading the HDD with CHIMP and I was going for the clock capacitor anyways(don't remove it on a v1.6 xbox). A good reason for upgrading the HDD is the fact that you can keep all of your homebrew and games running straight from the internal hardrive. The only burnt software I keep around is my copy of Hexen boot disk these days.

Listed below is the type of cable I used and the type of disks you should burn corresponding to the DVD drive your xbox has.

Samsung Drive:
Reads all CD-R/RW
Reads all DVD-R/RW
Will not read DVD+R/RW

Thomson Drive:
Will not read CD-R
Will only read SOME (generally expensive media) CD-RW
Reads all DVD-R/RW
Reads all DVD+R/RW

Philips Drive:
Will not read CD-R
Will read SOME (generally expensive media) CD-RW
Reads all DVD-R/RW
Does not read DVD+R/RW

 

[codezer0]

Out of need to take it apart to apply fresh thermal compound and remove the clock capacitor, I know it is a Thomson drive. But the problem is it's being a real brat about even reading some of the games I have, that work just fine on the 360 (as they are BC with it).

I'm going to have to look at this hotswap thing more.

 

[vb_encryption_vb]

Out of need to take it apart to apply fresh thermal compound and remove the clock capacitor, I know it is a Thomson drive. But the problem is it's being a real brat about even reading some of the games I have, that work just fine on the 360 (as they are BC with it).

I'm going to have to look at this hotswap thing more.

It's not too difficult, it's a pain in the ass though.

 

[codezer0]

Okay, but what is TSOP, and how do I flash that?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

You can always use the hotswap method, don't have to buy anything then.

Some of the stuff is out of date (pretty sure there is a newer ndure package now), but process is still the same.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/496263-ndure-softmod-through-xboxhdm/

Technically there is a risk of damage with this method, although despite the scaremongering some people (probably resellers of ar/splinter cell) do over this method, as long as you use a ground strap between pc & xbox it's pretty minimal.

According tot hat, I can't use it at all on 4034. and from what I last saw, it's on kernel and dash 4034, and I don't have any games that have asked or attempted to update it.

 

[vb_encryption_vb]

Okay, but what is TSOP, and how do I flash that?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


According tot hat, I can't use it at all on 4034. and from what I last saw, it's on kernel and dash 4034, and I don't have any games that have asked or attempted to update it.

You bridge 2 points, still need to hotswap though. I've done it many times back in the day.

 

[codezer0]

So... stop enables being able to backup and restore firmware?

 

[DinohScene]

TSOP flashing basically means you're replacing your BIOS with a hacked one that allows the booting from (re)writable CD/DVD media and it removes the need for a HDD key.

 

[cracker]

Get yourself a bigger hard drive too. It's been a while since I have done anything with the original but I believe a 500GB should work. You will need to hotswap, obviously as you need the old drive to unlock and new drive to lock. XBMC4XBOX is the best launcher to install since it gives you the media player, game launcher (with trainers if you care about that), homebrew, plugins, etc. Go to XBOX-Scene and #xbins on Efnet for guides and everything you need, respectively. Have fun!

 

[rasputin]

clean dvd lens, hotswap it and slap the files on, done. cost nothing

 

[05sonicblue]

You don't need the AR, you can just get a usb to xbox controller adapter. I made my own. When you have this, you can actually just plug the controller into the PC and then a memory card into the Controller. It will get picked up as a USB storage device. You can then use the AR software to transfer. It's important to note that the AR USB Drivers (needed for this method) aren't supported on x64 Operating System, so it will need to x86 based to work. I keep a cheap Windows 8 Tablet for this that has an x86 version of Windows on it.

If you don't want to go this route then the hotswap method will work as well, but you will still need a usb-pata adapter and I'm not sure about driver compatibility. Ever since SATA, I've always went with the AR Drivers/Application method.

 

[DinohScene]

Why get a windows 8 tablet, why not install a virtual machine which carries a 32-bit Win xp.

 

[codezer0]

clean dvd lens, hotswap it and slap the files on, done. cost nothing

I did manage to open the DVD drive and used some 91% alcohol + a q-tip to swab the lens. At present, I only have four legit original Xbox games on hand:

• Sonic Mega Collection Plus
• NFL 2k5
• XIII
• Splinter Cell: Chaos Theory

At present, it seems to be having the most trouble by far with Chaos Theory (how ironic, as I think about it while typing this).

Since I also just recently was gifted a multimeter (my first ever, really), I was wondering if it might be possible to tune the pots, or however it's called. And what I would need to look for in such a situation.

 

[DinohScene]

You can tweak the pot of the DVD drive but do know that the DVD drive will burn out quicker (not that it matters much anyway)

You only need to turn it a milimeter to decrease the resistance.
You'll need to check the amount of resistance that's going through it.

 

[codezer0]

Well, to help the hotswap go easier, I went and ripped one of my game soundtracks onto the Xbox hard drive. But as I was going around town, went to one of my more favorite shops and found the original (non-Platinum Hits) Splinter Cell available for it for $6.

So, I guess I'm halfway there for either path.

Far as the TSOP, I was watching some YouTube tutorial videos about it and they were saying that since I have a v1.0 board, I could even have up to four full BIOSes flashed on it once I'm able to put them in. Though it also states that once TSOP'd, I'd pretty much have to erase the softmod to continue. Does that still hold true?

 

[codezer0]

Oh no...

I was just getting everything ready for the hot swap. At first, thinking I was going to be in trouble cuz my older systems' board only has one pata plug on it, and those are usually taken up by the DVD drives on it. Then I recalled that it has the VIA card in for the 360 firmware writing. So I'm getting everything ready, having the xbox plugged in after taking apart enough to get free access to the hard drive, reach over to grab one of the molex's from the tower in question, and then before I could react, the circuit breaker in the apartment trips. I look down and see the hard drive from the xbox on its power supply and smoke coming from the back where it was plugged in.

Now, the xbox system in question won't turn on anymore.

How boned am I?

 

[codezer0]

So, curiosity begged enough to open the system up again for an autopsy of sorts to figure out what blew up and if it is at all salvageable . Thing is, not knowing what to look for, I can't see what got damaged, or how extensive the damage is. Uploading these pics to hopefully have some experienced eyes that might know what to look for. I just know I did see some smoke coming from around the power supply, but don't know if it would have damaged other parts.

Spoiler: DVD drive

The uhh... circuit board that connects the controller ports to the main motherboard, I believe. Not sure what the name for it is.

Spoiler: Controller Circuit Board

A close-up of the motherboard, around the primary power connector from the PSU board.

Spoiler: Motherboard - PSU connection area

CPU and GPU close-up(s).

Spoiler: CPU and GPU heatsinks

Area around the A/V out port.

Spoiler: Motherboard - A/V out area

The uh... TSOP chip, I think?

Spoiler: TSOP area

Chipset and RAM.

Spoiler: Chipset and RAM area

Clock Capacitor area. Still looking as clean as when I first got it.

Spoiler: Clock Capacitor

And now for the PSU itself, up toward the front.

Spoiler: PSU front

Rear part of the PSU; this is where I did recall seeing some smoke, but I can't see anything obviously burst, busted, or broken here.

Spoiler: PSU Rear - top side

Underside of the PSU. Sadly, not knowing what to look for, I can't see any obvious damage here, either.

Spoiler: PSU Rear - Under side

Another shot of the PSU's underside.

Spoiler: PSU Circuits - Front

One last shot of the power supply board, hopefully giving some better view of what might have been affected here.

Spoiler: PSU board - near power connector

I hope this will help someone be asble to tell me what, if anything, was damaged, and if this Xbox can be saved.

 

[DinohScene]

Excuse me for the awfully late replies but...
I can't see any damage.
Traces look fine as well.

If the Xbox doesn't turn on at all anymore then it's probably dead.
Without proper inspection of the motherboard (components, resistors, traces) there's nothing you can do.
Best to just salvage components and get another 1.0/1.1 (if you plan on adding a BIOS switch if you TSOP flash it) or a 1.2-1.5 (if you just TSOP it)

 

[codezer0]

Given the lack of physical damage, and that so far my attempts to find another have been... difficult; I'm debating whether to simply just get another power supply board, since - as I said previously - I only saw smoke leaving the power supply area.

At least recently was able to test the hard drive and confirm that is still working, even though it seemed to love to grind the PC that I was intending to use with it to a screeching halt. Seriously, just putting that hard drive from the original Xbox ended up making my boot times in the 30+ minute range, what the crap?

Anyways. After removing the board and looking at the underside as well, I couldn't see anything wrong there, either. Problem is, trying to find one inexpensive enough. Amazon just flat out will only refer me to the power bricks for a 360 or an Xbone, and eBay is just full of scalper links, and of the models made for newer model units.

 

[DinohScene]

HDD of the Xbox is locked.
PC tries to unlock it but it fails as it doesn't have the key.

Maybe hunt down a christmas lighting 1.0 xbox?
Would be the only "cheap" way of fixing it.