@wolffangalchemist, that would be swell.
@soulrazor, one of my main concerns is this actually: Do you or anyone have their brightness level as high as an SP ags-101's? (its deafult low level I mean, which is pretty sufficiently bright) Or is it bound to be lower than that?
About opening the case, I don't have a Y screwdriver so can't do it yet, but I'll get one soon.
@soulrazor, one of my main concerns is this actually: Do you or anyone have their brightness level as high as an SP ags-101's? (its deafult low level I mean, which is pretty sufficiently bright) Or is it bound to be lower than that?
About opening the case, I don't have a Y screwdriver so can't do it yet, but I'll get one soon.
As far as brightness goes, the modded AGB 001s should be brighter than the low setting of a AGS-101, but for sure nowhere as bright as the high mode. In my pic of my 8 GBAs, the SPs are all on high, but if on low the 001s are just a tad brighter.
If this isnt your experience definitely adjust the pot. All 3 of mine needed adjustment. If you didnt notice already, you dont have to take the GBA apart to adjust pot, this goes for the old ones and the SPs (in the battery compartment for SPs). On the AGB 001s the hole is under the sticker on the back. Just stick a phillips in there while a game is on and fine tune it.
If this isnt your experience definitely adjust the pot. All 3 of mine needed adjustment. If you didnt notice already, you dont have to take the GBA apart to adjust pot, this goes for the old ones and the SPs (in the battery compartment for SPs). On the AGB 001s the hole is under the sticker on the back. Just stick a phillips in there while a game is on and fine tune it.
That's kind of relieving to hear, I mean at least it's possible to increase it, and to "a tad brighter" which is even better. I ordered a screwdriver (can't find any of Y types around where I live) but it wouldn't arrive sooner than 10 days, from china (things just couldn't go worse). And as I understand, I gotta remove at least the back side of the case to reach the pot...? There's one thing I'm concerned about though. Since I'll be twisting some screw for the adjustment of the potentiometer (right?) is it possible that I might happen to overdo something and cause an electrical disturbance and damage some stuff? How exactly should I go with the adjustment? I've never done such thing before...
Another thing, I took a photo of the gba's backside to frame the soldering point. It's not perfectly clear but this is possibly the best I could provide.
--> http://i.imgur.com/rodijx1.jpg
I think the soldering point is right as I take this guide page as the refferance (guess it's by Zerey) --> http://i.imgur.com/9ZhLJlV.jpg
Could anyone confirm if it's done the right way for real?
So this level you get is directly after soldering, without adjustments? I don't know how mine ended up that low, I mailed Zerey several times about the problem with detailed explanations, photos and such, asking for a possible resolution method... Too bad he's not replying back.
its the high point yes
the hole for the pot ajustment is under the label on the back with the serial number( above the agb-jpn. on your photo also looks like on that place its a bit dirty on the label )
Yep, directly after soldering to the appropriate point. As shown in the Zerey's manual. Never adjusted the pot. And I don't think it has much to do with the brightness. Contrast, maybe. I think first you should resolder the cable. If this won't work, I would assume, Zerey's cable is defective.
That potentiometer has nothing to do with contrast and everything to do with proper voltage handling of the screen. I had to adjust mine a bit in order to get the screen to display the image and colors properly.
Here is an improved manual from Rose Colored Gaming:
http://rosecoloredgaming.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/rcg-gba-light-manual.pdf
I am pretty sure that they get theirs from the same folks as Zerey, if not from Zerey himself. RCG just adds in a switch to select low/high brightness.
Here is an improved manual from Rose Colored Gaming:
http://rosecoloredgaming.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/rcg-gba-light-manual.pdf
I am pretty sure that they get theirs from the same folks as Zerey, if not from Zerey himself. RCG just adds in a switch to select low/high brightness.
Just bought a back lit black GBA from a dude in UK who refurbish them with AGS-101 screen off Ebay for like $130.00 shipped to the US. Can't wait to get it. Now I'm going to have three GBAs. Two front lit (in my avatar) and one back lit.
is there anyone who uses official gba sp ags 101 screens for this mod? or can it be done if i supply the screen?
you can use your own screen if you want you just need to know the gba 001 motherboard model to know what type of adaptor you need and if you need a adaptor for a gba 001 40 pin model you need to know if your screen is type AB or A
Still waiting for the screwdriver to arrive... I'll be updating the status after trying out the potentiometer thing. (Just indicating for those who helped that the issue is still alive and that I still might need help X)
http://gbatemp.net/threads/wts-agb-001-with-ags-101-brighter-screen-mod.352063/
I'm selling the one i modded, I'll post the info i found out about alternative voltage points later.
As far as points on the AGT-CPU-01 motherboard go for screen voltage under load from the screen on the dimmest setting voltage is 10.74volts at max brightness the voltage is 11.57volts i checked this with two different brands of multimeter so it should be fairly accurate.
these are voltages from different points on the AGB-CPU-10 the 32 pin mobo i used in my mod, these voltages where the highest ones i found on the motherboard from what i can tell.
note: this is all without load being applied from the AGS-101 screens backlight please test these points out your self before trying them! also my batteries where dying so these may be slightly higher voltage with fresher batteries.
DA-1=13.42v (brightest according to the RCG PDF)
C35=13.42v (dim according to RCG PDF)
P2-VDD=13.36v
P2-VSS=13.29v
C28=13.42v
Q1=13.42v
If anyone else would like to test these points with the screens backlight as load i'd like to see the results, i do plan on testing these 4 possible alternative points myself once i get a screen to do my other 32 pin GBA i have.
I'm selling the one i modded, I'll post the info i found out about alternative voltage points later.
As far as points on the AGT-CPU-01 motherboard go for screen voltage under load from the screen on the dimmest setting voltage is 10.74volts at max brightness the voltage is 11.57volts i checked this with two different brands of multimeter so it should be fairly accurate.
these are voltages from different points on the AGB-CPU-10 the 32 pin mobo i used in my mod, these voltages where the highest ones i found on the motherboard from what i can tell.
note: this is all without load being applied from the AGS-101 screens backlight please test these points out your self before trying them! also my batteries where dying so these may be slightly higher voltage with fresher batteries.
DA-1=13.42v (brightest according to the RCG PDF)
C35=13.42v (dim according to RCG PDF)
P2-VDD=13.36v
P2-VSS=13.29v
C28=13.42v
Q1=13.42v
If anyone else would like to test these points with the screens backlight as load i'd like to see the results, i do plan on testing these 4 possible alternative points myself once i get a screen to do my other 32 pin GBA i have.
I do. I use official AGS-101 LCDs. Always a perfect result
that is great. i am looking to buy one with an official screen.
Don't they all uses official screen from broken GBASP 9 (AGS-101)? I mean, I know they sell aftermarket relacement LCD screen but I wouldn't think they used those, would they?
I'm pretty sure that modders who literally (ok not literally) mass-produce backlit GBAs can't possibly find a (cheap) broken AGS-101 for every AGB they mod.
And working AGS-101s are pricey.
i agree, the replacement screens are about $20 or so, I used an Orginal screen in my first one but i will probably use a new one on the next one as that is about half the cost of a ags-101 on ebay, and if you make your own cables the 34 pin connectors can be ordered online from various places.
Also IMO there is no reason to mutiliate a perfectly working AGS-101 every time this is done.
Just got mine today. The casing was in bad shape, so I took all the guts out and put it into my new black shell casing I had. Looks like a brand new GBA with a back lit screen. Had my glacier front light next to it for comparison. Huge difference!
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