GBA Flickering power LED, original GBA with modded IPS screen

[bobfacemoo]

Hi all,

I got a modded GBA with an IPS screen and I'm suffering from the power LED flickering. I've tried both standard AA batteries ( @ 1.5V each for 3V total) and AA rechargeable NiMH batteries ( @ 1.2V each for 2.4V total). I used the rechargeable ones first, and found on the internet that the lower voltage causes this but it still occurs with brand new standard AA batteries.

I'm thinking of getting a battery mod like this rechargeable USB-C one: https://www.retrogamingparts.co.uk/...c-battery-charging-mod?variant=40478556946521

Just wondering if anyone has insight if a 3.7V battery will fix my issue as I'm unsure when the GBA will *actually* die. With an almost *instant* red LED from fully charged NiMH, will the console *actually* die quickly or will it last until the batteries themselves run out of power? (They are 2500mAh Duracell NiMH).

And if someone could clarify something.
The site says "solderless" but also "gotta remove the battery terminals already in the GBA" and I haven't done a mod like that so how to go about that?

Thanks for any insight you might be able to provide

 

[Hanafuda]

Flickering power led means your power switch is crudded up with carbon from 20 years of use. Disassembly and cleaning (and reassembly) of the switch fixes this almost always. It does require some soldering.

I just did this last week on a GBA for which I'm currently waiting on a fp laminated ITA kit. Before, my power led would frequently flicker between green and red. Now it's solid green, like new.

There's a ton of yt vids on how to do this.


As for the usb-c power mod, that won't fix your problem. And I would recommend sticking with rechargeable AA's. The usb-c thing looks cool, but some good high capacity rechargeables (Ladda, Eneloop) are more practical and you can have a spare set ready to swap instead of waiting to charge up. The usb-c LiPo battery mods are not supposed to be charged while playing.

 

[Rikua]

As for the usb-c power mod, that won't fix your problem. And I would recommend sticking with rechargeable AA's. The usb-c thing looks cool, but some good high capacity rechargeables (Ladda, Eneloop) are more practical and you can have a spare set ready to swap instead of waiting to charge up. The usb-c LiPo battery mods are not supposed to be charged while playing.

While I can agree about the practicality of using rechargeable AA's, Saying the USB-C battery mods are not supposed to be used while charging is dependent on the actual USB-C battery mod in use. I use https://heldergametech.com/shop/batteries/game-boy-advance-megabat1400/ and I've never had an issue as its designed to be used that way.

 

[Hanafuda]

While I can agree about the practicality of using rechargeable AA's, Saying the USB-C battery mods are not supposed to be used while charging is dependent on the actual USB-C battery mod in use. I use https://heldergametech.com/shop/batteries/game-boy-advance-megabat1400/ and I've never had an issue as its designed to be used that way.

Fair point. Most people go for the funnyplaying or RetroSix kits, and afaik they're not supposed to be charged while playing. I'd still rather just use quality rechargeable NiMh's anyway. When they get old and don't hold a charge as well as they used to, just buy more.

And the problem OP describes is almost certainly a dirty power switch and won't be remedied by either battery option anyway.

 

[master801]

Flickering power led means your power switch is crudded up with carbon from 20 years of use. Disassembly and cleaning (and reassembly) of the switch fixes this almost always. It does require some soldering.

I would not recommend cleaning switches in terms of longevity.

Reason being is that the metal contacts will be worn down due to use (or from cleaning, if the contacts need to be ground down) once cleaned and now it's a loose switch.

It's a quick and dirty method, but will definitely not last long.

 

[Hanafuda]

I would not recommend cleaning switches in terms of longevity.

Reason being is that the metal contacts will be worn down due to use (or from cleaning, if the contacts need to be ground down) once cleaned and now it's a loose switch.

It's a quick and dirty method, but will definitely not last long.

I'll get back to you in 10 years or so and give a progress report.

I will say this - while there are quite a few yt vids showing how to do this, most of them are way too aggressive with the scrubbing on the contacts. Makho uses the cut-off stalk of a q-tip which is fine if you're gentle and patient and keep it wet with IPA or electronics cleaner, but he grinds at it and so do most others. It can be cleaned well with gentle attention and taking your time.

Edit: also I should add, if you do the job right the switch will not become "loose" because you cleaned it.