Hi everyone! I need help, I'll try to explain briefly what happened. I have a ps2 fat 50004 on which I played my backups without problems with Sony Network Adapter and Pata HDD. Today I connected HDD to the PC to add new games but showed no signs of life. (I connected it with one of those cheap Ide-Usb adapters that I bought about a month ago and that I have used about ten times without problems) I then connected the HDD to the PS2 to understand if the problem was the USB adapter, but the console no longer recognizes the HDD. So I discover that the Ide-Usb adapter has burned my HDD because I start to smell something burning, probably also short-circuiting the HDD connector of the PS2 after I inserted it to test it. I have tried other Pata HDDs that are recognized by the PC, but are not read by the PS2. So I dusted off my old PS2 Fat 39004 to understand if the problem was the Network Adapter or the console, and the HDDs are recognized without problems on the 39004. I desperately ask for your help in trying to understand which fuse I need to check or which other component, and if I can take this component from the 39004 to put it on the 50004. I wouldn't want to use the 39004 for the simple fact that it has laser problems and is quite noisy. I trust in your help, thank you!
IIRC the fuse is surface mount and located on the PS2's motherboard.
I believe I accidentally blew the 12v rail on my PS2, however, 2.5" drives work fine so I would suggest trying that first.
edit:
Forgot to mention, I had modded my adapter for SATA drives, if you decide to go down this route be careful as the kit I got wasn't very good for my PAL Network adapter (put a load of electrical tape on it).
I believe I accidentally blew the 12v rail on my PS2, however, 2.5" drives work fine so I would suggest trying that first.
edit:
Forgot to mention, I had modded my adapter for SATA drives, if you decide to go down this route be careful as the kit I got wasn't very good for my PAL Network adapter (put a load of electrical tape on it).
There are 2 fuses that regulate power from the PS2 to the HDD. If the HDD spins up but doesn't have enough to load or isn't detected at all, that may mean that 1 or 2 (#10 or #11) of the fuses needs replaced. You can identify these fuses by the '50' or 'S3' marking on them. Using a multimeter while the system is powered off, you can check the fuses for continuity.
[PS2 HARDWARE] Map of the Various PS2 Fuse Locations
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-KOA-...078956&hash=item28183b90b5:g:TDEAAOSwInxXNckR
Thank you! Does the psu board have anything to do with it? I saw someone who managed to insert the psu of a fat 3000 into a 5000. I would like to have a single console with a working optical drive and hdd connector, perhaps I could exchange parts between the 2 models...?
Thank you zfreeman, I can't quote your message. Unfortunately the linked website is inaccessible.
Not unless the power supply isn't supplying the proper voltage, but I doubt it considering the PS2 works perfectly fine other than the hard drive not working.
A thousand thanks! I bought everything I needed online including fuses and I'm about to buy a multimeter. I've never done an operation like this, so I'll first practice on the PS2 with the problematic laser by trying to remove the PS010 fuse (the one that probably exploded) and soldering it on the other console. Questions now arise about the multimeter setting, how should it be set to test the continuity of these fuses? I think this is different from the information I learned from laser calibration by setting the digital multimeter to 2K for ohm calibration (the multimeter I intend to buy doesn't even have 2K, it stops at 20K and then there is immediately 200 ohms. Are you saying to avoid buying this model if I also want to test the laser?) I am lacking information on using the tester, I hope you can give me new knowledge, I would be truly grateful.
Check the fuse in continuity or diode mode.
This is a glossary of what functions the symbols do. It isn't really specific to Fluke multimeters but mostly in general.
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/multimeter-dial-button-jacks-display
If the multimeter you get doesn't have continuity mode, then diode mode works as well.
While in continuity mode, some of the cheaper multimeters won't beep and will just show *some* value instead. If the fuse is broken (like what we suspect), then it'll show
0L on the multimeter display and/or beep.tl;dr Read the manual for more precise usage.
What multimeter do you plan to get?
Thank you so much for the accurate answers, I treasure them. I'll take a look at the link soon.. The multimeter I would like to buy is quite cheap and I spotted it on Aliexpress, but among the cheapest ones it is the one I trust the most reading the reviews that say it lasts over time. Is the following
EDIT:
So from what I learn I shouldn't have problems with the tests of other types of work such as laser calibration, in that case I would just need to set the multimeter to 20K and instead of reading for example the value 1123 (with 2K) it will read 1.12. I will wait all I need and take my time for the work, thank you all for the advice, I will update my work here in the future. If anyone has any other advice they are obviously welcome.
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