Hardware N3DS NAND backup possible, I hope.

milerwan

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Here is an example of dots welding on New 3DS :

new_3ds_dots_welding.jpg
 
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dg_dex

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Not heating issue, it's just a mechanical pullout because CLK dots are fragile.
That's why I recommend to solder the 2 CLK points together to prevent snatching.

EDIT: It is indeed possible to dissolve the dots by heating with a soldering iron too powerful but mostly it is snatching. I had got this French member by phone and it's snatchig in his case.

I wasn't aware that the clock points could be bridged together. Is this the case on the N3DS XL? I've always been hesitant with soldering 30awg wire to that tiny point.
 

milerwan

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About CLK points you could bridge :
- in N3DS, the 2 points together
- in N3DS XL, the 2 or 4 points together ! (already done)
:!: but you can't bridge the first one and the fourth only
 
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dg_dex

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About CLK points you could bridge :
- in N3DS, the 2 points together
- in N3DS XL, the 2 or 4 points together ! (already done)
:!: but you can't bridge the first one and the fourth only

Would you be so kind enough to mark in red which points I can bridge as I would like to do this for stability around the CLK on my n3ds xl.
 

milerwan

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I use 30awg and only use cmd and dat0 from back motheboard, but I can't quit the press in botton screen.
Where do you spend your wires to have a pressure point at bottom of the screen ?

The pressure point with kynar 30 AWG could be due to a solder ball to big.
The solder must be clean/flat as possible to avoid pressure point (DAT0 and CMD).
 
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GRED

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And does it destroy the connection to the nand if the iron is too hot ? Maybe it happened, but I tried to do the faster than I can, I don't know.
I solder the both points but it has snatched, the second time I opened the N3ds.

I'll disolder tomorrow, but I think it's dead.
 

Ninoh-FOX

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Where do you spend your wires to have a pressure point at bottom of the screen ?

The pressure point with kynar 30 AWG could be due to a solder ball to big.
The solder must be clean/flat as possible to avoid pressure point (DAT0 and CMD).

The pressure point only appears if you press too the screen (lower right corner) and it seems the shadow of an earthworm.

I have tried many times, my welds are clean and small, but I've never managed to remove that tiny pressure.

4e95a05efcca92ce1fa15a1bb511a998.jpg
 
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milerwan

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It seems your wires are too long and overlap.

Redo or cut your wires with these exact lengths :
- CLK = 4 cm (don't use alternative CLK point)
- DAT0 = 5 cm
- CMD = 6 cm

With these lenghts, it will be impossible that your wires overlap.
They will be parallel to Adafruit PCB.

Here is the result you must have :

new_3ds_adafruit_micro_usb_installation_alt.jpg
 
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milerwan

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The path of the alternative CLK wire requires to extend its length to prevent interference with the closure of the shell.

Shorter wire is, better is.
 

RetroBitMig

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So, uh, I cut the MicrorUSB board properly, got it all soldered onto my N3DS (please keep in mind that I have done hardmods before, just not with micro usb) and now whenever I power it on, it automatically goes into the bootrom error code. That shouldn't be happening, right?

EDIT: I resoldered my points, making sure they weren't cold or anything and everything works now :)
 
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GRED

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Hello everyone,
I have disoldered all wires. And unfortunately, I still have the blue screen ERRCOD ... 400
So I don't know what happened
 

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