Hacking Hardware Switch - Dual Battery Hack

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
OP
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
In another thread I’ve been talking about extending the internal battery life of my customized V1 Switch.

I’m pretty sure the things I’m about to explore are going to be applicable to V2 as well but do your own research to confirm and don’t just blindly follow me off a cliff!

Messing with batteries can be dangerous. You can hurt your Switch and you can hurt yourself if you do something wrong. Don’t take unnecessary risks.

Disclaimers out of the way let’s bring everyone up to speed with some background…

Late last year I was struggling to put my V1’s clothes back on. Too many changes all at the same time got me all fuct up ya’ll.

As I was buttoning up the project here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/aluminum-switch-wip.614047/page-2#post-9967361

…I left a teaser about batteries.

Inspired by this post

by /u/boiniqqua447/ on Redit @randy_w and I were brainstorming similar battery mods and lamenting the state of Chinese batteries en masse. See the thread for more details…

There are some creative people out there, that’s for sure.

Anyway, here’s where we are. I have in my possession 5 sets of batteries, a spare mid frame and a willing Dremel tool. I’m going to document my findings here and post updates as I go along.

A little bit about battery sizes while we’re here.

You will see them quoted as 3 x double digit numbers. In the Reddit post they talk about using 804080 batteries and you can see that stamped on the sides of most LiPo batteries in a dot matrix kind of text.

Here‘s how to interpret what’s written on the side:

Firstly there might be letters in the front. LP stands for Lithium (or Lithium-ion) Polymer. There are other constructions as well but these are the ones we’re interested in.

The first 80 means 8.0mm. It’s kind of silly IMO because it’s not micrometers or anything “metric”y. They just arbitrarily slapped a decimal place and called it a day. If you go above 10mm they just stop using that level of accuracy for thickness. If you go below a 1/2 mm they stick a 0 in the front.

The middle number is how wide the battery is. No room for decimal places here. It’s simply the number of mm.

The last number is the length of the battery INCLUDING the protection circuit on the top.

example:

Here‘s a cute little LP502035

1673926110007.png

It’s about 5mm thick and you can see the width of 20mm and finally the length of 35mm so 502035.

So you could look this up yourself and I encourage you to do so but why am I harping on this so much.

LIES!

A high quality manufacturer will typically adhere to a level of tolerance.

Thickness ± 0.3mm
Width ± 0.5mm
Length ± 1mm

as we get into more batteries you’ll see that Chinese manufacturers have little tolerance for…tolerance.

this extends to the mAHs as well. You really can’t trust the labels on these things, much less the marketing advertisements on sites like AliExpress and TaoBao. More on that later…

The ideas that were tossed around got me to wondering how much space I had to work with.

Here are my real world measurements of the mid-frame:

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

For those keeping score that gives us 71.89mm x 76.97mm x 6.98mm to work with.
Based on bad eyesight and shaky hands I’m going to say it’s about 72 x 77 x 7.

One of the neat tricks @randy_w found was a place that was cutting through the midframe all the way to the back of the screen to give a little more depth.

Like so:

1673815564152.png

let’s see if it’s…
image.jpg

I’ll take another 1.11mm in height!

…or maybe I just wanted a reason to break out the Dremel!

At any rate that takes our depth to 6.98+1.11=8.19mm

71.89mm x 76.97mm x 8.19mm

With the midframe measured let’s start with a high level overview of the battery of battery contenders…

image.jpg

Here are the physical and electrical specs of each of the contenders:

Physical:

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg


71.40mm x 75.19mm x 5.87mm
vs midframe measurements
71.89mm x 76.97mm x 8.19mm

Whew! It fits! Just barely!

Electrical:

3.7V
4310mAH
16.0Wh

This was the size of the battery in the Reddit post. Serious, no BS.

It says 804080 on the battery but its closer to 753772 with the protection board it came with removed. Find any battery or 2 that can fit within 77mmx72mmx7.5mm. My advice would be not to go full out like me and max out the battery bay. You still need space in the length dimension for the original battery board.

View attachment 1673935281318.jpeg

physical:

804040

As discussed in the specs spoiler above this battery should be 8mm thick by 40mm wide and 80mm long.

They were ordered as a pair from the same vendor.

Let’s see how we did…

image.jpg

obviously I removed the protection circuit on the top battery…for science.

image.jpgimage.jpg

The one on the right is 38.10mm while the one on the left is 37.82mm

Remember the tolerance specs for width? Width ± 0.5mm.

37.82+.5=38.32

They are just barely within tolerance of each other by .2mm

HOWEVER these are supposed to be 40mm across.

38.10+.5mm=38.6mm or about 1.4mm smaller than acceptable tolerance for the largest one.

it gets better (you can probably already see it in the photos)

image.jpg

Tolerance for length should be:
Length ± 1mm

our guy is 82.5mm or 2.5mm larger than spec or 1.5mm over spec..

Hold on…don’t go anywhere. We’re not done yet!

As you can see I optimistically started stripping the first battery of its protection circuitry because I just knew it was going to fit. I mean c’mon man. I saw it on Reddit! at any rate this means I have to measure comparatively to get the length of the other battery.
(Sorry…I was young and excited. I’ve grown since then.)

image.jpg


77.61mm without the circuit…

image.jpg

73.14mm without the circuit on the other one!

4.47mm difference the other way!

I reckon this guy is about 2mm under spec after subtracting the 1mm over spec for the other battery in the pair.

what the hell, AliExpress vendor!?!?!!

I’m starting to get the impression that we have different definitions of the words “quality control”!

Surely we’re within tolerance for an 8.0mm accurate thickness:
Thickness ± 0.3mm


image.jpg

6.61mm is NOT w/i .3mm of 8.0mm.

image.jpg

Unfortunately the 6.91 of the other battery is still woefully under the spec that the .3mm tolerance would lead you to expect.

Wait a tick, what’s with the other end?

image.jpg

10.38mm?

I’m kidding, this wasn’t the vendor’s fault!
I was attempting to measure the mAh of this battery and what do you know…it got all spicy pillow on me!


More on this failed test and why knowing the mAh of a pair of batteries is important in the next installment.

Interesting takeaway on these is 804080 was the recommended size in the Reddit thread but using the smallest of the odd assembly of measurements we get:

73.14mm x 75.64 (37.82*2) x 6.61mm
vs midframe measurement
71.89mm x 76.97mm x 8.19mm

Electrical:

3.7v
3000mAh (6000mAh for 2)

The capacity increase is in the desired ballpark BUT unless you’re counting on getting two random batteries of similar oddball size, there‘s really no way these are going to fit side by side. There’s a full 2.25mm of overhang on the length. I did consider turning them in degrees but then the other side starts out way over. These will have to be eliminated from the pool.

Time to think outside the box…

After scouring what must have been several thousand options I got to thinking, if we can’t do side-by-side, how about stacking them? After all, this is how RC cars do their multi-cell batteries.

I found these guys with a size of 406680 so that would be 4mm thick by 66mm wide and 80mm long (including the protection circuit which we will be removing.)

image.jpg

Right off the bat we’re 1.8mm short of the promised 66mm.

Remember the width tolerance of Width ± 0.5mm?

Don‘t worry if you forgot, it seems battery manufactures don’t remember either so it’s no big deal!

I was taking a chance on the 66mm to begin with but these guys were sure to be flopping around in the battery bay without some additional padding.

image.jpg

length is 72.42 without the PC card.

image.jpg

thickness came in at a disappointing 3.14mm for both batteries as it’s well short of the 4mm ( ± 0.3mm)

image.jpg

6.48mm when stacked. Should have been closer to 8mm ( ± 0.6mm)

Starting to see a pattern?

64.2mm x 72.42mm x 6.48mm
vs midframe measurement
71.89mm x 76.97mm x 8.19mm

With anemic measurements all around this battery is going to be like throwing a hot dog down a hallway (giggidy!)
…but it gets better!

Electrical:

3.7V
3600mAh

wait, what?!?!
The smallest volume of battery this far has about 20% more power? I don’t believe you.

verdict? Too flappy on all sides and with an unbelievable power spec, these will never do. :-(

These guys have enough pride in their work to not only put their brand name on the side, they also come with a holographic sticker (I assume to prevent return fraud.)

It’s a nice touch so I have high hopes.

They’re labeled as 407080, let’s see if they measure up in reality.

image.jpg

65.58 is a far cry from the expected 70mm. 4.42mm short. Tolerance is supposed to be Width ± 0.5mm. Nnnnope.

image.jpg

At 81.29mm long that’s only 1.29mm off the expected length. I’m starting to realize I need to be more tolerant of these tolerances. Length ± 1mm so only .29mm off.

image.jpg

Without the PC card they are right at 77.05mm

image.jpg

For thickness these guys are coming in at 3.71mm for an undershoot of .29mm. That’s within the tolerance Thickness ± 0.3mm! Super excited.

65.58 mm x 77.05mm x 7.42mm (3.71x2)
vs midframe measurement
71.89mm x 76.97mm x 8.19mm

Maybe if we cut her toes off the glass slipper will fit?

Electrical:

3.7V
3000mAh

This is a bit more of a realistic capacity estimate but the fact that it won’t fit lengthwise (but only just) will eliminate this battery from the running. It[s really too bad because the tolerances were almost there and I think the quality is going to be better. I mean…it has a sticker and a hologram with their name on it so it’s gotta be good.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    4.5 MB · Views: 77
Last edited by binkinator,

SylverReZ

Dat one with the Rez
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Sep 13, 2022
Messages
7,170
Trophies
3
Location
The Wired
Website
m4x1mumrez87.neocities.org
XP
22,012
Country
United Kingdom
Good luck! B-)

Hope the batteries never start swelling, if they're up against the screen with no protection :O
Hope their Switch doesn't suffer the same effects as an iPod Nano.
 

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
OP
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
Good luck! B-)

Hope the batteries never start swelling, if they're up against the screen with no protection :O
I have a story about that very thing in the next installment.
 

SylverReZ

Dat one with the Rez
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Sep 13, 2022
Messages
7,170
Trophies
3
Location
The Wired
Website
m4x1mumrez87.neocities.org
XP
22,012
Country
United Kingdom
Not to worry…they put down Kapton tape!

That shit is almost as strong as duct tape!
I wouldn't even recommend duct tape for electrical use.
 

thesjaakspoiler

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2018
Messages
977
Trophies
0
Age
124
XP
1,487
Country
Afghanistan
Caption: 2 3500mah cells connected to the OG battery board in parallel
I tried to do the same thing as I saw it in battery powered drill.
But 1 of the batteries started swelling after 2 years.
I don't know why that happened.
Maybe 18650 have a harder shell and can't swell that easily.
Or maybe the battery packs I used where just too cheap.
 

XRTerra

What if instead of ohio, it was kai cenat land
Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2022
Messages
228
Trophies
0
Location
United States of America
XP
549
Country
United States
One day I'll see if I can get a test switch and try a dual battery mod.

I would love to see third parties doing this kind of thing for a battery replacement for those who don't want to risk messing up.
 

kristianity77

GBATemp old fogey
Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2003
Messages
1,680
Trophies
2
Location
Sleaford, UK
XP
2,672
Country
United Kingdom
Are there any retail grips for the switch that house a battery in them? I remember having a nyko one for the vita a few years back which doubled the battery life whilst making it more comfortable to hold.
 

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
OP
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
Are there any retail grips for the switch that house a battery in them? I remember having a nyko one for the vita a few years back which doubled the battery life whilst making it more comfortable to hold.
I got one of these guys last year that holds 10000mAH (untested) that clips on the back and let’s you use your regular joycons.

94A8932F-0D7E-4884-8965-5C36041514AD.jpeg

There are others that are similar that incorporate a case as well.




To be sure, there are tons of “better” and already existing ways to solve what I’m doing here.

My goal is to say that I’ve done the internal battery mod, possibly a little better than others, and learn a little bit in the process…without blowing myself (or my switch) up.

One day I'll see if I can get a test switch and try a dual battery mod.

I would love to see third parties doing this kind of thing for a battery replacement for those who don't want to risk messing up.

As a cliff hanger, I think I’ve learned a little about why it’s not done commercially. More as the story progresses…
 
  • Like
Reactions: peteruk

XRTerra

What if instead of ohio, it was kai cenat land
Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2022
Messages
228
Trophies
0
Location
United States of America
XP
549
Country
United States
I got one of these guys last year that holds 10000mAH (untested) that clips on the back and let’s you use your regular joycons.

View attachment 347804

There are others that are similar that incorporate a case as well.




To be sure, there are tons of “better” and already existing ways to solve what I’m doing here.

My goal is to say that I’ve done the internal battery mod, possibly a little better than others, and learn a little bit in the process…without blowing myself (or my switch) up.



As a cliff hanger, I think I’ve learned a little about why it’s not done commercially. More as the story progresses…
That Terios one looks pretty shady imo, but I will look into getting a battery case for right now.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: binkinator

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
OP
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
Added “battery specs” and “reddit battery“ sections and moved things around for flow.

I’ve been wanting to write this up for a while now but it’s only just coming together in my head as I type…
 
  • Like
Reactions: peteruk

The Real Jdbye

*is birb*
Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2010
Messages
23,296
Trophies
4
Location
Space
XP
13,854
Country
Norway
I tried to do the same thing as I saw it in battery powered drill.
But 1 of the batteries started swelling after 2 years.
I don't know why that happened.
Maybe 18650 have a harder shell and can't swell that easily.
Or maybe the battery packs I used where just too cheap.
What happens when you have 2 batteries in parallel is that the battery voltage is averaged between them, so if you don't make sure to charge them to the exact same voltage before installing, or if they don't have the exact same capacity, one battery will always be slightly (or more than slightly, if they started at way different voltages) overdischarged from a full discharge, and slightly overcharged from a full charge.

For example, you have one battery at 3.3V and one at 3.45V. When the voltage is measured, that averages out to 3.375V. Then you let them drain fully and the Switch cuts off at 3V (just an example, it might cut out at 3.1-3.2V, it varies from device to device and I'm not sure what the exact cutoff voltage for the Switch is), in reality you have one battery at 2.925V and one at 3.075V. Now, this should not damage either battery, because li-ion/lipo batteries have a minimum safe voltage of 2.5V, so this is in theory fine in the short term, but it will shorten the lifetime of the battery that was discharged to 2.925V over time when this happens repeatedly, because deeper discharge wears out li batteries more, this leads to uneven wear on the batteries which exacerbates the problem.
And then when you charge them up fully, the Switch cuts off at 4.2V, in reality you have one battery at 4.125 and the other at 4.275. This will harm the battery that was charged to 4.275V, because the maximum safe voltage of li batteries is only 4.25V, also when removed from the charger it will stabilize back down to 4.2V (because li batteries are not stable above this voltage) and the excess power is converted to heat, causing additional wear.

Making sure to charge batteries up to the same voltage before connecting them together is a requirement for using multiple li batteries either in parallel or in series. If you don't do this, one or more of the batteries is going to fail early. It's also a requirement that the batteries have as identical characteristics as possible, you can't use 2 different batteries, and ideally, the batteries should be paired from the factory (this means they come from the same batch, they have the same charge/discharge characteristics and identical capacity so there is no uneven wear on them), in mass produced battery banks such as for example powerbanks with multiple 18650 cells, the batteries will usually be paired from the factory, but buying paired cells as a consumer is not so easy, if you buy multiple 18650 cells they often come paired in packs of 2, but in the case of lipo packs, this is usually not the case.

Built in protection chips should stop this from happening but not all lipo packs are guaranteed to have built in protection and not all protection is made equal.

Commercial solutions where paired batteries are not a viable solution (like EV batteries) use balanced charging to avoid overcharging or overdischarging cells, but this is part of the battery management IC, and the Switch doesn't do balanced charging since it was designed for a single battery.

Edit: Oh and you are right about 18650 cells, they won't swell. Instead, they have a vent that is designed to blow at a specific pressure (it's very high, something like 200 psi), once that happens, things can get exciting, imagine a tiny cylinder shaped rocket with flames shooting out of one end.
 

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
OP
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
What happens when you have 2 batteries in parallel is that the battery voltage is averaged between them, so if you don't make sure to charge them to the exact same voltage before installing, or if they don't have the exact same capacity, one battery will always be slightly (or more than slightly, if they started at way different voltages) overdischarged from a full discharge, and slightly overcharged from a full charge.

For example, you have one battery at 3.3V and one at 3.45V. When the voltage is measured, that averages out to 3.375V. Then you let them drain fully and the Switch cuts off at 3V (just an example, it might cut out at 3.1-3.2V, it varies from device to device and I'm not sure what the exact cutoff voltage for the Switch is), in reality you have one battery at 2.925V and one at 3.075V. Now, this should not damage either battery, because li-ion/lipo batteries have a minimum safe voltage of 2.5V, so this is in theory fine in the short term, but it will shorten the lifetime of the battery that was discharged to 2.925V over time when this happens repeatedly, because deeper discharge wears out li batteries more, this leads to uneven wear on the batteries which exacerbates the problem.
And then when you charge them up fully, the Switch cuts off at 4.2V, in reality you have one battery at 4.125 and the other at 4.275. This will harm the battery that was charged to 4.275V, because the maximum safe voltage of li batteries is only 4.25V, also when removed from the charger it will stabilize back down to 4.2V (because li batteries are not stable above this voltage) and the excess power is converted to heat, causing additional wear.

Making sure to charge batteries up to the same voltage before connecting them together is a requirement for using multiple li batteries either in parallel or in series. If you don't do this, one or more of the batteries is going to fail early. It's also a requirement that the batteries have as identical characteristics as possible, you can't use 2 different batteries, and ideally, the batteries should be paired from the factory (this means they come from the same batch, they have the same charge/discharge characteristics and identical capacity so there is no uneven wear on them), in mass produced battery banks such as for example powerbanks with multiple 18650 cells, the batteries will usually be paired from the factory, but buying paired cells as a consumer is not so easy, if you buy multiple 18650 cells they often come paired in packs of 2, but in the case of lipo packs, this is usually not the case.

Built in protection chips should stop this from happening but not all lipo packs are guaranteed to have built in protection and not all protection is made equal.

Commercial solutions where paired batteries are not a viable solution (like EV batteries) use balanced charging to avoid overcharging or overdischarging cells, but this is part of the battery management IC, and the Switch doesn't do balanced charging since it was designed for a single battery.

Edit: Oh and you are right about 18650 cells, they won't swell. Instead, they have a vent that is designed to blow at a specific pressure (it's very high, something like 200 psi), once that happens, things can get exciting, imagine a tiny cylinder shaped rocket with flames shooting out of one end.
This was going to be next installment. You’re ruining my presentation!

lol

YES! to maintain the voltage you must wire them in parallel because if you put them in serial it will be 7.4V. This kills the console.

When you wire in parallel you have to be sure that the batteries are at the same level, otherwise you run the risk of discharging the lower battery too much and damaging it’s ability to take a charge and overcharging the higher battery because the system will still see the need to keep charging well after the upper battery is full. This last state kills the battery, and if done just right you can set fire to your console as well!

Most scenarios lead to killing the battery the Switch or both. But I have a plan…
 

l7777

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2022
Messages
329
Trophies
0
Location
Earth
XP
1,186
Country
United States
This was going to be next installment. You’re ruining my presentation!

lol

YES! to maintain the voltage you must wire them in parallel because if you put them in serial it will be 7.4V. This kills the console.

When you wire in parallel you have to be sure that the batteries are at the same level, otherwise you run the risk of discharging the lower battery too much and damaging it’s ability to take a charge and overcharging the higher battery because the system will still see the need to keep charging well after the upper battery is full. This last state kills the battery, and if done just right you can set fire to your console as well!
As someone with a room for of RC vehicles all powered by lithium batteries I can tell you that the same is true for cells in series. Lead acid batteries naturally balance themselves but lithium of any type does not. In cases where OEMs use multiple cells in series or parallel (laptops) you will also find a charge controller to balance the cells.

Additionally I don't think my RC batteries have ever gone more than a year or two without swelling at least a little bit. I can say that none have ever failed catastrophically. Most failures have resulted in an internal short that simply drains one or more cells slowly.

With regards to the Switch, I believe the primary factor impacting its battery health is heat. I usually see 40º - 45º with my Mariko units but I hear people talking about 60º+ on Erista. While this is not directly the battery temp, the heat will eventually transfer to the battery during extended use and that also happens to be near the limit of recommended lithium battery operating range. Temperatures in this range and above will lead to accelerated degradation.

For my own devices I generally turn off fast charging and limit the charge to ~80% if I can to maximize the battery's longevity. IMO all lithium battery devices should offer these as a user configurable options. I find it rare that I'm away from a charging source long enough to need fast charging or the entire battery capacity. Others may need all the capacity and charging available but they should realize that doing so will degrade the battery quicker.
 

guily6669

GbaTemp is my Drug
Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
2,333
Trophies
1
Age
34
Location
Doomed Island
XP
2,100
Country
United States
Are you like using the battery controller on each battery to keep them balanced or something?

Also is that Lipo?

I never had luck with lipos, all the ones I actually used from RC no matter the brand and having them with a low voltage alarm by each cell after many time all my batteries start to get very unbalanced and I always charged balancing them.

Also all the lipos I actually used eventually started to balloon and many even started smoking, I wouldn't even dare using LiPo and specially not without some kind of circuit that I know with 100% sure that it always balance both batteries and allow a balance discharging too sharing the load always balanced.

And even with Lion dual batteries I have many dead original Samsung and other brands from using in dual battery vapes but since I got a mod with balancing feature and one that seems to work I have been using the same Sony batteries for like 3 years and still going strong charging almost every day, the balancing circuitry made all the difference as it keeps them balanced wether it's discharging or idle (I always charge batteries separately too 1-by-1...).
 
Last edited by guily6669,
  • Like
Reactions: slaphappygamer

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum

General chit-chat
Help Users
    Psionic Roshambo @ Psionic Roshambo: The only CoD game I played that I truly enjoyed was Black Ops 1, and only the single player...