Soldering after broken SP2 for CPU flex - is this going to work?

banemitic

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The problem is I send this to a friend, just the board, to repair what is possible after SP2 capacitor was knocked off. So he cannot try is this working. The problem is the left pad of the place of SP2 capacitor was damaged and he says he is not able to solder capacitor or flex down there. Right side of the SP2 is soldered down to CPU.

First, he just did like this, saying sides of the SP1 and SP2 are connected anyway.

viber_image_2023-08-01_16-08-06-744.jpg


But I was concerned and than he added capacitor above flex and with jump wire soldered left side (+) of the SP2 to the + of the capacitor on the left.

viber_image_2023-08-01_17-10-36-403.jpg


Is this going to work? Was the first solution enough? Can you share with me some schematics of the CPU flex and generaly this part of the Switch processor. Thank you. Please let me know if you need any more info.
 

banemitic

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Thank you. Can I get some guide and values to check soldering with multimeter. I was only able to find values where pople have some problems.
 

banemitic

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I understand. But the problem is I have ground for SP2, but no way to connect to SP2 to + where it should be. My question is should I leave like that or try to connect to + to some other capacitor. + of the SP1 and SP2 are connected on CPU flex, too. But I am trying to understand why you need two soldering points if + is connected for SP1 and SP2 and no way to try it out, because board was sent by mail.
 

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2+ point is meant for more current draw. You can't use the other cap next by. Check the sp2 plus pad if it still exist on the cpu or just leave it as is.
The reason having sp1 sp2 (same connection or same path) is like you have more lane on highway in order to have fast traffic, compared to only one cap/sp1 connection, you have only 1 lane for large amount of current flow
 
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Kurizh

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2+ point is meant for more current draw. You can't use the other cap next by. Check the sp2 plus pad if it still exist on the cpu or just leave it as is.
The reason having sp1 sp2 (same connection or same path) is like you have more lane on highway in order to have fast traffic, compared to only one cap/sp1 connection, you have only 1 lane for large amount of current flow
What does that mean or imply?
Soldering only one SP is fine then? Is it safe? Is it safe to overlock?
I broke the metal part of one of the SP2 (didn't lift it) so now I can't solder it to the flex cable... If I connect the sp1 and only the non ground part of the sp2 I will be fine right?
Thanks sir!
 

jkyoho

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if you
What does that mean or imply?
Soldering only one SP is fine then? Is it safe? Is it safe to overlock?
I broke the metal part of one of the SP2 (didn't lift it) so now I can't solder it to the flex cable... If I connect the sp1 and only the non ground part of the sp2 I will be fine right?
Thanks sir!
if you are doing picofly install, likely only sp1 will be fine, but if hwfly or similar you might need sp2 solder as well.
PLUS side is the main requirement compared to the minus side is ground, which you get it from the 2x large square solder point at bottom edge on the metal bracket anyway.
So if your sp2 cap broken, remove the cap. Take a look on the sp2 plus side if the pad on the cpu still avaiable to solder on.
 
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Kurizh

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if you are doing picofly install, likely only sp1 will be fine, but if hwfly or similar you might need sp2 solder as well.
PLUS side is the main requirement compared to the minus side is ground, which you get it from the 2x large square solder point at bottom edge on the metal bracket anyway.
So if your sp2 cap broken, remove the cap. Take a look on the sp2 plus side if the pad on the cpu still avaiable to solder on.
I was trying a picofly installation, thank you very much!! Will try it tomorrow and will post the result :)
 

Kurizh

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if you are doing picofly install, likely only sp1 will be fine, but if hwfly or similar you might need sp2 solder as well.
PLUS side is the main requirement compared to the minus side is ground, which you get it from the 2x large square solder point at bottom edge on the metal bracket anyway.
So if your sp2 cap broken, remove the cap. Take a look on the sp2 plus side if the pad on the cpu still avaiable to solder on.
I didn't have much time lately but today I finished it! Unfortunately I'm not sure if I soldered correctly because I don't have the right tools.. But hey! It works!. I tested continuity with ground on SP1+ and gave the value 009.7 and 009.6 on SP2+. Is this okay?
 

superxoi

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2+ point is meant for more current draw. You can't use the other cap next by. Check the sp2 plus pad if it still exist on the cpu or just leave it as is.
The reason having sp1 sp2 (same connection or same path) is like you have more lane on highway in order to have fast traffic, compared to only one cap/sp1 connection, you have only 1 lane for large amount of current flow
hey friend. do you know the value of the last cap beside the sp2 cap. i bought a lite with this cap is missing. thank in advance.
 

superxoi

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SORRY, the very least on is actually 100nF
I measured SOC cap off the board but still on the CPU, so measurement may shift a bit.
sr for bothering you again. but i haven't found 0201 6.3v 100nF anywhere near my place. the only one i found out is 0201 16v 100nF. Can i use it for the time being. yesterday i tested with 0201 6.3v 1uF and the switch gave me a bluescreen , i immediately took it off and the switch working again (what a relief)
edit : at the time being i have no donor board so if i could not find the correct value can i use the switch without it(i'm concern that would cause damage in the future) untill i have the replacement. thank you
 
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bmxfou

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hello, I installed the rp2040 on lite but during soldering I lost the sp2 capacitor, I removed the rp2040 cable the console works. the question if I want to put the rp2040 back will the sp1 be enough, does it work without sp2 and why does the console work without sp2? THANK YOU
 
Last edited by bmxfou,

jkyoho

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sr for bothering you again. but i haven't found 0201 6.3v 100nF anywhere near my place. the only one i found out is 0201 16v 100nF. Can i use it for the time being. yesterday i tested with 0201 6.3v 1uF and the switch gave me a bluescreen , i immediately took it off and the switch working again (what a relief)
edit : at the time being i have no donor board so if i could not find the correct value can i use the switch without it(i'm concern that would cause damage in the future) untill i have the replacement. thank you
16v should be fine 100nf is 0.1uF. I see tons of choice at 6.3v or lower voltage rates
 

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