Picofly AIO Thread

[deeps]

I guess anyone is free to charge money for their services, regardless of how shitty they are.
It kind of sucks that all of us are treated like crooks just because a few of us actually are, though.

 

[snaker]

I dont know if i am a God or some higher entity (and i am unaware of it) but i have done over 100 oleds all with the correct high quality dat0 adapters and after over 2 years i havent got not even one console back for dat0 missplacement. I have stated it numerous times that so many people post missleading posts that make no sense at all. What temp can an emmc reach that can bend or expand a dat0 adapter made from kapton... If you have some fetish with reballing this is fine, but please stop posting missleading stuff. All the emmc and dat0 faults made from adapters are for 2 main reasons
1st : bad quality adapters!
2st : not enought tension applied to the adapter while soldering it down

Never reflow the adapters!
And one last thing. Use NO CLEAN high quality flux! Some people also stated that flux will make dat0 adapters lose their connection.If you use no clean flux then there will be no issues with the connections. I assure you.

 

[Constep]

I just flashed picofly on the RP2040, there is a blue LED and two yellow LEDs, is this normal?

 

[Constep]

Yes, that means it has been flashed correctly. Whenever you connect it to usb plug, you'll see in total 7 flashing LEDs (1 long blue and 6 short yellow), it means that the program is running and picofly is trying to glitch the CPU.

Thank you for your response, have the color codes changed? On the old guides the LED was red, mine is blue or yellow just after the flash I don't remember

 

[Myst0gan]

Thank you for your response, have the color codes changed? On the old guides the LED was red, mine is blue or yellow just after the flash I don't remember

Yes, now it's one color but blinking frequencies are different, check the guide, it's all there

 

[LuigiGad]

Some months ago here in the forum we made a whole discussion about the adapters. About what makes a good and what makes a bad adapter. I posted photos and explained, as many others who wanted to help did. You can check my posts to get some info. At that time some of us tried many different stores and we posted here our results. Most ali eshops shipped different quality adapters on every new order. i tried from one store and the quality was excellent so i took my chances and ordered enough of them.The same store closed some weeks later. Since then tens to hundrends of eshops that were selling modchips, cpu flexes and dat0 adapters closed from nintendo and the cat and mouse game began. Daily you can see stores that sell that stuff to disappear. Nintendo keeps chasing them down and will never stop. I have not ordered more dat0 adapters since. But if someone else knows a shop that sells the good ones can post it here.

There is no perfect adapter, I have personally tried them all black, orange, small, large, v6, v5, etc, etc. all are prone to create shorts with DAT0/DAT1 regardless of installation. It's in the experience to get the easiest adapter to change

 

[Constep]

I dont know if i am a God or some higher entity (and i am unaware of it) but i have done over 100 oleds all with the correct high quality dat0 adapters and after over 2 years i havent got not even one console back for dat0 missplacement. I have stated it numerous times that so many people post missleading posts that make no sense at all. What temp can an emmc reach that can bend or expand a dat0 adapter made from kapton... If you have some fetish with reballing this is fine, but please stop posting missleading stuff. All the emmc and dat0 faults made from adapters are for 2 main reasons
1st : bad quality adapters!
2st : not enought tension applied to the adapter while soldering it down

Never reflow the adapters!
And one last thing. Use NO CLEAN high quality flux! Some people also stated that flux will make dat0 adapters lose their connection.If you use no clean flux then there will be no issues with the connections. I assure you.

Do you recommend sd360/kingbo flux ?

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Do you recommend sd360/kingbo flux ?

Amtech V3 (also known as STIRRI V3)

 

[KingMasta1991]

Does anybody know, if my Picofly Board has the right resistors on it? Espacially CMD and DAT0? Would be also nice to know, which these are

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

Does anybody know, if my Picofly Board has the right resistors on it? Espacially CMD and DAT0? Would be also nice to know, which these are

it most likely has all 47 ohm. I was trying to figure this out the other day.

 

[MoeXzl]

Would be also nice to know, which these are

You will have a multimeter, right? Why is everyone asking for simple crap here?

Such chips usually always have 47 ohms. You can try it out first to see if everything works. I haven't had any problems with this with a V1. From V2 to OLED I generally do 100/100/47 ohms.

 

[KingMasta1991]

You will have a multimeter, right? Why is everyone asking for simple crap here?

Such chips usually always have 47 ohms. You can try it out first to see if everything works. I haven't had any problems with this with a V1. From V2 to OLED I generally do 100/100/47 ohms.

Yes I have a multimeter and I will check the values.
However I was asking, which one of these are the CMD and DAT0 resistor. It's not written/marked on the board.

Anyway I guess I know now, which resistors I have to change. I already ordered the required 0402 SMD resistors (100Ohm)

EDIT:
I just checked the resistor values and they are indeed as follows:
b = 50 Ohm
d = 50 Ohm
a = 50 Ohm
c = 240 Ohm

So should I just start with replacing c with 100 Ohm or should I directly exchange a and

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

This may sound like a dumb question but is 2.73 the latest? I see a 2.75 floating around. Which firmware is everyone using?

 

[KingMasta1991]

I'm currntly using the version 2.75 from here:
https://github.com/rehius/usk/releases/tag/PicoFly_2.75_2023.09.09_08-16

 

[rull_bull]

Yes I have a multimeter and I will check the values.
However I was asking, which one of these are the CMD and DAT0 resistor. It's not written/marked on the board.

Anyway I guess I know now, which resistors I have to change. I already ordered the required 0402 SMD resistors (100Ohm)

EDIT:
I just checked the resistor values and they are indeed as follows:
b = 50 Ohm
d = 50 Ohm
a = 50 Ohm
c = 240 Ohm

So should I just start with replacing c with 100 Ohm or should I directly exchange a and

Replace a and c with 100ohm. Remove b and bridge the points. Done

 

[KingMasta1991]

Replace a and c with 100ohm. Remove b and bridge the points. Done

I just thought about just ordering a new chip.
Maybe the new RP2040 boards have the right resistors on them.
I'm a bit afraid of soldering these tiny 0402 resistors

 

[Moneyforthecash]

asking, which one of these are the CMD and DAT0 resistor

maybe this helps you:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly...-with-hwfly-working-fine.633167/post-10331461

 

[Mawi]

Hi guys, been doing picofly mod since a year but i got a weird issue with one and im looking for a fix or something to try. The console its a patched v1 that got parental control code forgotten. The console at the begininng booted fine, the fw was 16.0 so I decided to’ update to the latest 17.0.1 before installing the mod, and everything went fine. Installed the mod and atmo as always and Emmc running in slow mode appear, so I tought I have to recheck the soldering, maybe add resistors or checking the sd card fpc connector or the reader. Before doing those checks , i started atmosphere and i was not able to, it popout an error (picture attached). Then i try the ofw and after the Nintendo logo just black screen. I removed all the mod and cleaned the board, but the issue still persist, Nintendo logo then black screen. Started looking for any short on the board (m92, max chips, p13) but none found. Reflowed but not reballed the nand and the Wi-Fi chip but no changes, swapped battery no changes at all. And now im kinda stuck here, got spares boards and everything but im not sure what to do next. I hope to find a solutions by writing here, thanks!

 

[abal1000x]

Hi guys, been doing picofly mod since a year but i got a weird issue with one and im looking for a fix or something to try. The console its a patched v1 that got parental control code forgotten. The console at the begininng booted fine, the fw was 16.0 so I decided to’ update to the latest 17.0.1 before installing the mod, and everything went fine. Installed the mod and atmo as always and Emmc running in slow mode appear, so I tought I have to recheck the soldering, maybe add resistors or checking the sd card fpc connector or the reader. Before doing those checks , i started atmosphere and i was not able to, it popout an error (picture attached). Then i try the ofw and after the Nintendo logo just black screen. I removed all the mod and cleaned the board, but the issue still persist, Nintendo logo then black screen. Started looking for any short on the board (m92, max chips, p13) but none found. Reflowed but not reballed the nand and the Wi-Fi chip but no changes, swapped battery no changes at all. And now im kinda stuck here, got spares boards and everything but im not sure what to do next. I hope to find a solutions by writing here, thanks!

have you check the cmd resistor on the switch mainboard?

its usually broke mysteriously and lead to those blackscreen or bluescreen.

 

[psycho-neon]

Hi guys, been doing picofly mod since a year but i got a weird issue with one and im looking for a fix or something to try. The console its a patched v1 that got parental control code forgotten. The console at the begininng booted fine, the fw was 16.0 so I decided to’ update to the latest 17.0.1 before installing the mod, and everything went fine. Installed the mod and atmo as always and Emmc running in slow mode appear, so I tought I have to recheck the soldering, maybe add resistors or checking the sd card fpc connector or the reader. Before doing those checks , i started atmosphere and i was not able to, it popout an error (picture attached). Then i try the ofw and after the Nintendo logo just black screen. I removed all the mod and cleaned the board, but the issue still persist, Nintendo logo then black screen. Started looking for any short on the board (m92, max chips, p13) but none found. Reflowed but not reballed the nand and the Wi-Fi chip but no changes, swapped battery no changes at all. And now im kinda stuck here, got spares boards and everything but im not sure what to do next. I hope to find a solutions by writing here, thanks!

Install back the mod chip, make resistance of dat0 and cmd to 100ohm, then boot to sysnand cfw once.