Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Dee87]

Is the repair pad better since it's flat?

Japp that's the point since u don't want any height und er the emmc an specially no UV mask since when u add to much u might have the problem that the emmc lays on it, also u don't have the issue that the wire might bend away after u resolder the emmc and the end u slightly soldered to the dat0 point

 

[Danook28]

I'd buy your design, I bought this one for $10 and I'm yet to try it out.

If I ever get reballing right, that's my plan, to wire D and all data points. Wiring all data lines at once combined with your back MOSFET method. This cuts time for installing OLED, it might even be faster than the other versions.

This is very good chip for dat0 if you use hot air with no damge.

 

[roxzii]

Hey

I have a normal stencil the ones for 8 bucks and some solder paste,

i take nydeom magnets and lay them around the emmc put some double sided tape underneath the magnet to get them the same hight as the magnets so my stencil sits flush with the magnets, the u just drop the stencil on top add some solder paste and then u push on the middle of the emmc so the stencil doesnt warp up when u heats it up and tada u got ur reballed emmc


Stencil

Solder Paste

So you got magnets that are the height you need for the stencil to be flush with the chip? Did I understand right? I'm really interested in this approach since the proper jigs are too expensive for me.

 

[ErickRayan]

Hello friends, I have a question.
Can I just salvage the mosfet from a dead board of a random electronic device? What are the requirements for the mosfet to be compatible?

 

[abal1000x]

Hello friends, I have a question.
Can I just salvage the mosfet from a dead board of a random electronic device? What are the requirements for the mosfet to be compatible?

I think the requirement is n-channel mosfet, and Rds around <20milliohms at 4.5V and the gate current could flows minimum at around >10A.

The picofly will use 3.3v to switch on/off the gate. So you need to see on the datasheet graphics at 3.3v to be sure.
For example (IRFH8342)

You could see for VDS 1V, the Ids for Vgs 3.3V is around 15A.

The idea of the glitch is to steal the power goes to the cpu by reduce the current that goes to the cpu. So the rds should be as small as possible to steal the currents flows.

Data from various mosfet which has been confirmed work is at <20mohms. Greater than that might work, might not. Just try it, and report back in here, so we could learn from your work.


For me is not worth the effort to use other. The brand new IRFH8342 in my local is as cheap as $0.1. So take out some mosfet from some random board might use electricity higher than $0.1. Also the time spent to search for the datasheet. Its more suited for someone whose curious and cost is not a dominant factor.

 

[Dee87]

So you got magnets that are the height you need for the stencil to be flush with the chip? Did I understand right? I'm really interested in this approach since the proper jigs are too expensive for me.

Not exactly the same height that swhy I underlay the emmc with tape 4 layer is what I need on double sided tape

 

[floxcap]

Install went well... Glitches perfectly & boots as expected.
Now battling getting I2C to send from Atmosphere. We'll see what the dev experts say

So... Managed to get i2c comms working through Hekate. Hardware and firmware proven working.
ScriesM & CTCaer are helping me (a lot) to get i2c working from Atmosphere.

 

[QuiTim]

So you got magnets that are the height you need for the stencil to be flush with the chip? Did I understand right? I'm really interested in this approach since the proper jigs are too expensive for me.

This is what I did https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10190949
It was just for practice/fun, I have yet to do this in the switch and see if it survives
In the meantime I found this (was recommended by another member here and there are cheaper variants if you search for them) and it works much better that a normal stencil since it has a nice place/groove where the chip fits and will not move around while working on it.
So a flat piece of wood, a drill, some glue, some magnets and a $4 stencil and you got yourself a poor man's DIY Jig.
Or you could skip all that and just do this
And lastly, if you want to practice I would go for this and this
Good luck.

 

[abal1000x]

So... Managed to get i2c comms working through Hekate. Hardware and firmware proven working.
ScriesM & CTCaer are helping me (a lot) to get i2c working from Atmosphere.

Thats awesome

 

[vittorio]

has anyone tried this dat0?

 

[QuiTim]

has anyone tried this dat0?

Yep, https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10215010

 

[T0biasCZe]

I ordered the flex cable kit for my v1 switch, what other components do I need? (beside basic stuff like soldering iron/solder)

 

[Dee87]

I ordered the flex cable kit for my v1 switch, what other components do I need? (beside basic stuff like soldering iron/solder)

Its been all explained more then once here eather read the thread, u can also use the picofly guide in my signature or read the Aio Picofly thread there is everything explained

 

[T0biasCZe]

eather read the thread

problem with that is that there is 613 pages
and the guide doesnt mention the flex cables with the esp onto them

 

[Dee87]

problem with that is that there is 613 pages

problem with that is that there is 613 pages
and the guide doesnt mention the flex cables with the esp onto them

and the guide doesnt mention the flex cables with the esp onto them

what esp are u talking about ?

the guide has everything explained

 

[impeeza]

has anyone tried this dat0?

the best one.

 

[QuiTim]

problem with that is that there is 613 pages
and the guide doesnt mention the flex cables with the esp onto them

You are missing alot by not allowing yourself to experience the joy of figuring out the things by doing some more reading or lets say "the hard way" not that there is anything "hard" anymore about this mod at this point.
The Guide has all the necessary info but here it goes...
- Mosfets to solder to APU (either bare mosfet/s or flex cable which has mosfets in it)
- One of supported rp2040 bords/chips
- 2x100ohm and 1x47ohm resistor
- ~36/38/40awg wire
- Thermal paste
- Kapton tape
- 2 sided tape
- Multimeter
- Solder mask (and UV light to cure that)
- Screwdrivers (Philips and TriWing)
- Soldering equipment (Iron, solder, flux, tweezers, microscope, cleaning brush, IPA,)
- Steady hands
- Common sense
If you are doing Oled then also a dat0 adapter or a bunch of other sh*t to do a proper reball/reflow
Happy soldering

 

[Switxh]

problem with that is that there is 613 pages
and the guide doesnt mention the flex cables with the esp onto them

The guide lists everything you need even the wires and tools. You are just being lazy

 

[QuiTim]

Hi everyone! I'm installing the picofly right now and i have some questions. my switch is a v2 HAC-001 (-01) and I wanted to use the solder points on the emmc board instead of the ones on the motherboard as described by the official guide.
Looking carefully and more closely at the switch, now that I've opened it, I think they're simpler to solder.

Are there any pros and cons to this method?

.....and try to not double post since it's mostly the same people on both threads so it's just confusing for everyone involved

 

[GrayFox0189]

.....and try to not double post since it's mostly the same people on both threads so it's just confusing for everyone involved

damn i didn't see it was also posted on the other post because i signed up. I'll delete it now sorry