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Those 3 are resistors not capacitor. No problem using that middle resistor as CPU point
I can't wait to hear back once you've tried these out! I really wanted to use the ones from ali too but the price put me off the idea also. If the materials they're using at JLC are suitable and they perform well then I would love to get some! I have the initial files you put on github still. I wlll keep an eye out for any changes or updates here. Thanks for your work!Might not kill the emmc, but possible to corrupt the data.
Post automatically merged:
Follows the recent post theres is heat discussion on reball and adapter
Reball always the best solution but not everyone have the tool, skill or heart to do it.
But in oled i don't think i will focus on adapter. Because there is green adapter, which pinout the clk/cmd/dat0. So reball not only fix the problematic dat0 adapter, but also avoid scratching the high risk clk pad.
Still waiting my green adapter to come. I create my own on jlcpcb, which might lesser the price. Its $2 for 5pcs. Not yet confirmed its working or not. Might report back when finish playing around with the adapter.
View attachment 385912
does bad dat0 connection on OLED (too long wires/uncleaned flux/short because of bad Dat0 adapter) can cause EMMC SLOW MODE?
note: already using extra 47R on dat0 and CMD
note: already using extra 47R on dat0 and CMD
Last edited by blackheartme,
Wires being too long can cause EMMC slow mode yeah. Did you already try adding extra 47ohm resistors to dat0 and CMD? I have also heard that uncleaned flux can cause issues too but personally I have never noticed it during testing.
already use dual resistor, on this particullar OLED booting to ofw black screen, no sd card screen apear just fine , booting to hekate normal but slow emmc mode, can dump keys and can make emunand but havent tried launch it yet as i believe its gonna blackscreen also like ofw.
i want to ask some advice before pinpointing the culprit, few factor i could think of:
1 wire ( havent try trimming down the wire, previously jailbroken other oled with similar wire length no problem, but ill try cut it short)
2 flux (some flux might go down under the emmc chip while i soldered the adapter)
3 Adapter dat0 ( maybe the adapter dat0 causing shorts? i used four achor one but ive remove it three times already due the switch not turning on, turns out bad LCD socket now already repaired)
any thoughts on this?
As far as I know, if the glitch process is successful then the dat0 adapter is not the problem. Some flux under the EMMC can cause poor connection with the friction mounted dat0 method but if the glitch process is successful then that indicates there is not an issue with the adapter. I am however not sure if a short with dat1 and dat0 could cause slow EMMC. I don't think I have heard that reported. Just that it can potentially cause corruption. So I would say the dat0 adapter is not the problem. Other people may have more input than me on that though.
As for wire length, these things vary from device to device. It is entirely possible that equal wire length is fine on one console but causes slow EMMC on another console. I would trim the wires if you suspect they are too long. Long wires is certainly one of the ways you can get slow EMMC.
Hey
I have a normal stencil the ones for 8 bucks and some solder paste,
i take nydeom magnets and lay them around the emmc put some double sided tape underneath the magnet to get them the same hight as the magnets so my stencil sits flush with the magnets, the u just drop the stencil on top add some solder paste and then u push on the middle of the emmc so the stencil doesnt warp up when u heats it up and tada u got ur reballed emmc
Stencil
Solder Paste
Last edited by Dee87,
I just noticed the HWFLY seller have these on sale for $10. It's $5 if you buy 100 pcs. I probably can get them far cheaper than that but we shall see.Might not kill the emmc, but possible to corrupt the data.
Post automatically merged:
Follows the recent post theres is heat discussion on reball and adapter
Reball always the best solution but not everyone have the tool, skill or heart to do it.
But in oled i don't think i will focus on adapter. Because there is green adapter, which pinout the clk/cmd/dat0. So reball not only fix the problematic dat0 adapter, but also avoid scratching the high risk clk pad.
Still waiting my green adapter to come. I create my own on jlcpcb, which might lesser the price. Its $2 for 5pcs. Not yet confirmed its working or not. Might report back when finish playing around with the adapter.
View attachment 385912
Still overprice to me.
I order $3 (include shipping). Lets say $4 include tax. For 5 pcs. So 1 pcs less than $1.
Lets say i bought the 25k ball for $2. Its enough for 25k/(2x153) =81 pcs.
Lets say i create 100pcs then it would be $40 plus shipping $1.5 and tax $15 is around $65 and the ball $2.5 so total producation cost is $67.5 for 100 pcs. So 1 pcs around $0.7. This is the production cost, if the project succeed. But if it need more quality than the cost might be increase.
You could calculate yourself for the rp2040-zero which only sold for $4. Its amazing, thats what i call fair price.
Editted:
I forgot to include the cost of the electricity to balled it
. I thinks its around $1 per pcs.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I'd buy your design, I bought this one for $10 and I'm yet to try it out.Might not kill the emmc, but possible to corrupt the data.
Post automatically merged:
Follows the recent post theres is heat discussion on reball and adapter
Reball always the best solution but not everyone have the tool, skill or heart to do it.
But in oled i don't think i will focus on adapter. Because there is green adapter, which pinout the clk/cmd/dat0. So reball not only fix the problematic dat0 adapter, but also avoid scratching the high risk clk pad.
Still waiting my green adapter to come. I create my own on jlcpcb, which might lesser the price. Its $2 for 5pcs. Not yet confirmed its working or not. Might report back when finish playing around with the adapter.
View attachment 385912
If I ever get reballing right, that's my plan, to wire D and all data points. Wiring all data lines at once combined with your back MOSFET method. This cuts time for installing OLED, it might even be faster than the other versions.
Attachments
I don't claim to be an economist but I'm certain it will cost you more than that once more hands are involved.Still overprice to me.
I order $3 (include shipping). Lets say $4 include tax. For 5 pcs. So 1 pcs less than $1.
Lets say i bought the 25k ball for $2. Its enough for 25k/(2x153) =81 pcs.
Lets say i create 100pcs then it would be $40 plus shipping $1.5 and tax $15 is around $65 and the ball $2.5 so total producation cost is $67.5 for 100 pcs. So 1 pcs around $0.7. This is the production cost, if the project succeed. But if it need more quality than the cost might be increase.
You could calculate yourself for the rp2040-zero which only sold for $4. Its amazing, thats what i call fair price.
Editted:
I forgot to include the cost of the electricity to balled it
RP2040-Zero is massively produced in the hundreds of millions so its rather silly to compare it to this that barely touches the thousands of units.
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RP2040-Zero's aren't all that expensive. Either take em or leave it.Still overprice to me.
I order $3 (include shipping). Lets say $4 include tax. For 5 pcs. So 1 pcs less than $1.
Lets say i bought the 25k ball for $2. Its enough for 25k/(2x153) =81 pcs.
Lets say i create 100pcs then it would be $40 plus shipping $1.5 and tax $15 is around $65 and the ball $2.5 so total producation cost is $67.5 for 100 pcs. So 1 pcs around $0.7. This is the production cost, if the project succeed. But if it need more quality than the cost might be increase.
You could calculate yourself for the rp2040-zero which only sold for $4. Its amazing, thats what i call fair price.
Editted:
I forgot to include the cost of the electricity to balled it
Already order $2 for 5pcs. Include ship $3. And the future tax i am sure its $4. So for 5 pcs its $4. Its not hypothetical, i already order it and pay for it.
I don't know if its work though.
Let me know how they work , if there good I might also order a few , the quality from jlc is actually pretty good so I guess there gonna work with no issues,
I mean why shouldn't they work its a pretty simple PCB design.
And they will def cost less then the other ones u get
On
Another modders fault sent to me.
Problem was on taking the chip out all he had was a pink screen on boot.
Report was it was crashing in OFW before - so corruption due to poorly installed dat0 adaptor.
I had to take out the old dat0, install a new one... rewrite the entire NAND user partition.
But as it was a dummy his serial number was different from the one on his Switch's case.
Never seen slow mode before or since that to be honest.
Just to be safe - after seeing that & before I sell, I check every console does not give slow mode.
Only time I've seen slow mode is a dat0 short with dat1.
Another modders fault sent to me.
Problem was on taking the chip out all he had was a pink screen on boot.
Report was it was crashing in OFW before - so corruption due to poorly installed dat0 adaptor.
I had to take out the old dat0, install a new one... rewrite the entire NAND user partition.
But as it was a dummy his serial number was different from the one on his Switch's case.
Never seen slow mode before or since that to be honest.
Just to be safe - after seeing that & before I sell, I check every console does not give slow mode.
I have a problem with my chip, everything works normal but sometimes the chip just acts weird and does some error like dat0 not connected or emmc init failure or write failure and boots to ofw, it does this a few times then a restart fixes it, i don't know why it happens but what may be the cause of this? The firmware is 2.73
I use this and bought from this same seller.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400....order_list.order_list_main.16.21ef1802fpiHPl
I purchased the magnet base and the position plate with the BGA153 stencil. The first couple of uses will be flawless with the stencil. However I have encountered it too warp under heat after the third/fourth use. To solve this, I used Kapton tape to tape it down before heating and it some pressure with a tweezer for added effect. Solder paste is easy to come by. Ebay for me. And thats it. The reball kit from aliexpress comes with a spatula so no need to order one yourself. If you run into any trouble tag me or @Dee87. He has helped me very much so on multiple issues regarding reball and other switch related things. FYI, I use 40awg enamled wire for dat0 connection. Solder mask the rest of the wire very thinly down as too much mask would create a hill like shape that could impede the chip from sitting back in place properly. So just enough solder mask to secure the wire in place. And then the chip goes back on. If you have a donor board or something you can practise on first. It will make you tenfold more better. I think @QuiTim practised on an old cell-phone emmc chip. All the best and glad to see someone trying it the right way.
Also for the DAT 0 point I use solder repair pads
I recommend everyone to use those they are way better then wire , take the hint @Takezo-San
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