yup i tried that and got a blue screen, i got scammed
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and how could i run ums_loader if i can't get into a menu on the switch?
Last edited by sadish,
Hello everybody.
I have a doubt with my rp2040, I passed fw_2.74.uf2 to the chip, proceeded as in the tutorials I saw. However, whenever I connect it back to the PC, the blue led lights up and then blinks yellow, but each time I connect it blinks in a different sequence. This is normal?
Obs. I just plug it into the PC, without holding the boot key.
Sorry for the English, I'm using an online translator
Thank you for your attention
I have a doubt with my rp2040, I passed fw_2.74.uf2 to the chip, proceeded as in the tutorials I saw. However, whenever I connect it back to the PC, the blue led lights up and then blinks yellow, but each time I connect it blinks in a different sequence. This is normal?
Obs. I just plug it into the PC, without holding the boot key.
Sorry for the English, I'm using an online translator
Thank you for your attention
Hi everyone!
I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.
Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.
Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.
If photos are needed of RST I can post, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.
Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.
Appreciate any help!
I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.
Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.
Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.
If photos are needed of RST I can post, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.
Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.
Appreciate any help!
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Blue Screen could also be corrupted nand - check your clk point looks like its grounded to the ground point. Dat 0 also looks a bit wonky
That's normal , install 2.73
Since 2.74 has issue with some rp2040
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Since blue screen and I sat ur using one of those cheap Oat0 adapter I would also say something's wrong with u nand
Also check clk with ground seems to be bridged
Last edited by Dee87,
Thanks for the reply!
Yeah, the clk isn't the best of jobs, but i made sure the jacket covers that ground point and have tested several times against ground, getting around mid 0.800's, my multimeter is a bit wonky, direct probe to probe goes anywhere from 20 to 120, so I think it's in the high 0.700's at the pico.
As for dat0 it's a bit crooked because I followed sthetix video and heard it's better to not short with dat1 in these adapters. And I also got the expected readings from the point.
My question is, woulnd't the pico give a led error code in any of these cases? Or would it reach the no sd card screen all the same. I read that if you short the dat0 to dat1 and then turn off the pico without removing the shorting adapter, HOS will write to emmc and corrupt it due to short, giving a blue screen, and I unkowingly did turn off the pico without removing the dat0, but I was already getting blue screen before that when pressing +\- at the no sd screen. But wouldn't the pico give an error code if those 2 points where shorting?
Sorry for the amount of questions, just trying to understand where the problem might be coming from.
Last edited by roxzii,
So my technician replaced the pcb board with the new one and it looks just as clean as before if not better. The firmware is still 2.74 and it actually glitches inconsistently still. Currently it seems like it will glitch after disconnected the battery for about 6 hours and reconnecting it then turning on the switch. Does this sound like a firmware issue?
Edit: seems like it judging by your reply earlier. Just waiting for it to glitch at some point so I can roll it back to 2.73 with the toolbox
Last edited by postnutclarity,
Hello. I have this interesting observation to share with you guys, can't wait to hear what you think!
Got three OLEDs in today, two glitched fine, but the third gave me *==. Re-wired the whole thing, but no luck. Then I remembered @abal1000x's post where he said this error means the glitching stage hasn't even begun, most likely CLK, which it was.
I re-scratched it, put plenty of solder there, still the same error, BUT GET THIS:
When I removed the CLK wire and turned on the console, nothing happened. I re-wired CLK and BOOM got a good quick glitch. It's like it was reprogrammed after the poor writing after I removed it. Pretty strange.
It works fine now, 400MB, all good.
What do you guys think?
TL;DR:
Got *==, re-worked CLK but still got the error. It was fixed when I turned on the console with CLK removed and then re-resoldered.
Got three OLEDs in today, two glitched fine, but the third gave me *==. Re-wired the whole thing, but no luck. Then I remembered @abal1000x's post where he said this error means the glitching stage hasn't even begun, most likely CLK, which it was.
I re-scratched it, put plenty of solder there, still the same error, BUT GET THIS:
When I removed the CLK wire and turned on the console, nothing happened. I re-wired CLK and BOOM got a good quick glitch. It's like it was reprogrammed after the poor writing after I removed it. Pretty strange.
It works fine now, 400MB, all good.
What do you guys think?
TL;DR:
Got *==, re-worked CLK but still got the error. It was fixed when I turned on the console with CLK removed and then re-resoldered.
That's exactly what I was thinking, if it doesn't reach hekate the problem must be elsewhere. Does that only leave the APU caps then?
Get In!!!I bought both the stencils and curious how you use it with the solder balls? Any tips?
BTW, I tried with the magnetic jig and stencil with paste and it came out perfectly first try. I struggled so many times using paste and holding down the stencil with tweezers never worked.
Now I can mod my oled
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Got this one and its huge. Like twice the size of the IRF8736PbF. The whole point was too find something that doesn't require the metal bridge cut...
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Can anyone confirm for me if number 6 (on the diagram) is the voltage regulator? That isn't really required for this mod and can be removed because @impeeza wrote a while ago 'that regulator is for convert the 5V of the USB to 3.3V and you can get 3.3V directly from console board.' Is it safe to do so?
Thank you in advance.
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this one looks like a mesh fabric, what that used for!?
Last edited by Takezo-San,
Ive redone the instalation.
It seems this is software issue, but still im not sure.
You can try to replace the sdcard and also just install barebone hekate and also default atmosphere at least it minimize the issues.
Of course this not happen on other unit, not tried to replace the rp board yet. Maybe ill try to flash older firmware 2.6.4 later and see what happen
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Please dont.
Yup a few times it gave me sleepless night.
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
Yes, you can remove the LDO (Low DropOut Voltage Regulator) after flashing the firmware through USB. Once you remove it though, it becomes more difficult to flash over USB.
Update: Resoldered the flex cable, turned the pi back on. Tried running UMS-Loader as a payload and it ran. Not sure what to make of this. Since it only uses RAM and it works, the problem must be in the APU?
Would appreciate any help, really lost on this one.
I can confirm that, this Oled only shows picofly logo, with micro sd black screen and vol+- blue screen and without picofly same blue screen, MAX77812 IC is shorted, waiting for replacement
ums-loader only uses nvidia's iram so the cpu is okay. i might check the connection between apu and dram the next of it. Theres lot of small trace which might broken because of mod activity.
Thanks so much for the reply! Okay, going to test that! Any specific caps around the IC I should check for shorts?
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Thanks for the reply! I haven't messed around too much around there. Could a tiny spec of thermal paste do anything like this? I noticed that when I cleaned the APU with IPA some tiny pieces of thermal paste went under the metal shielding and near the ram chips, I tried cleaning as best as I could, but maybe some tiny spec ended up in the wrong place? In the photo I've attached there can be seen tiny specs of thermal paste between traces. Anyway, I'm going to check those traces right away, thank you!
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Last edited by roxzii,
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