well i did some magic its not perfect yet but im working on it iWhat tools do you use?
For magic depends on the right tools.
well i did some magic its not perfect yet but im working on it iWhat tools do you use?
For magic depends on the right tools.
No, you need 47 Ohm resistors, not 47kOhm.Are these the correct parts?
Oh thanks, just noticedNo, you need 47 Ohm resistors, not 47kOhm.
Also I can only advice you to buy "Lackkupferdraht" in 0.1mm and 0.3mm respectively for the installation and cpu mosfet instead of the wires you've put into your cart.
Nope. The resistor is wrong, should be 47, not 47k.Are these the correct parts?
Is it work with rp2040-one?2.61
- no more magic for xiao/itsy, detection by shorting pins
-- for xiao2040 please short GPIO 1 & 2
-- for itsybitsy please short GPIO 2 & 3
- moved to the latest sdloader version (I know, logo sucks now)
- software update bugfixes, rollback works fine now
i would even say use 0.1mm magnet wire that is was better and less risky ripping of padsNope. The resistor is wrong, should be 47, not 47k.
And the soldering wire (if it’s soldering wire) is too thick, you’ll be happier with 0.2-0.3.
Just a heads up (as I've just learned this as well), you can use the nintendo switch's native screenshot button on the joycon to snap a screenshot to /bootloader/screenshots of Hekate.well i did some magic its not perfect yet but im working on it i
View attachment 363850
i know but the only way u get that image is when u dont have a SdCard In it ;-)Just a heads up (as I've just learned this as well), you can use the nintendo switch's native screenshot button on the joycon to snap a screenshot to /bootloader/screenshots of Hekate.
u think the hwfly is gonna make a difference if u dont get a rst connection it also needs it :-)I managed to fix my erista switch but can't get the alternate RST to work or something else is going on. But at least it works, so I ordered a hwfly for it and will install that. I'll try my hand at installing a picofly again some day. At least I know it works if installed properly, seen it with my own eyes
check for continuity between the D0 cables....just got everything installed but instead of booting into hekate I keep getting a yellow led indication.
I believe everything is connected well and tried to change a few solder point for D0 (cuz yellow for bad D0) but I’m getting the same issue.
anything I did wrong?
magic smoke is never good if it came from the apu caps then u prob fried a cap and had some bridging going on i would check for proper soldering on that cap an try to resolve that issue befor u "just" keep using itAfter days of blood, sweat and pain, I managed to install the mod succesfully and boot into Hekate and Sysnand without issues.
HOWEVER: on the first boot, I heard something deep frying and saw a little bit of smoke, probably from one of the apu capacitors. That's the only time when such thing happened and everything seems to work just fine. I read on this same thread that such thing happened to rehius when he forgot the ground cable. I re-checked the gnd connection and all looks good. The issue hasn't happened since.
Should I be concerned and search for some specific issue that I may have overseen?
Also: I was on 2.6a. If I want to update, do I just have to flash 2.61 over it or would it be better to wipe the 2040-zero clean and then flashing afterwards?
Looked white to me, but of course I was panicking a the time and I may not remember correctlyWhat color was the smoke?
Of course I triple checked the flex cable and both SP1 and SP2, but there's no obvious short or bad soldering. And everything just works, so I'm pretty confused but feels a bit scary to just close everything after thatmagic smoke is never good if it came from the apu caps then u prob fried a cap and had some bridging going on i would check for proper soldering on that cap an try to resolve that issue befor u "just" keep using it
just flash 2.61 on the rp or use update.bin and pico toolbox if u already desolderd the usb
check if u get some reading from the cap and make sure there is no bridging how did u install the mosfet?Looked white to me, but of course I was panicking a the time and I may not remember correctly
A good ending would be if it was only some residual fresh flux getting burnt, but I don't think that the temperature could be THAT hot
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Of course I triple checked the flex cable and both SP1 and SP2, but there's no obvious short or bad soldering. And everything just works, so I'm pretty confused but feels a bit scary to just close everything after that
Didn't use a mosfet, just went the easy way with the hwfly flexcheck if u get some reading from the cap and make sure there is no bridging how did u install the mosfet?
def not flux
ah okay then check for soldering bridgesDidn't use a mosfet, just went the easy way with the hwfly flex