Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

twins333

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100% but my one starts!? OFW works no problem. Disconnected pico and boots into ofw. so must be a line that haven't soldered well. ill have to go back and see but im sure its the cmd line. might be bad solder joint even though it gives a good reading. very tricky. or emmc line wire not being hit to the correct dat0 point. maybe could have shifted to the dat1 point. Doubt it but don't want to go straight to that if i can help it. Do the small checks first and if all fails, back to reball again
If you have a dat0 adapter, maybe you can use it to check your own dat0 line. connect it(but don't solder it) and check for continuity between the adapter and the end of your dat0 line, at the picofly joint. would that be possible? I am not familiar with dat0 reballs :)
 

Takezo-San

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If you have a dat0 adapter, maybe you can use it to check your own dat0 line. connect it(but don't solder it) and check for continuity between the adapter and the end of your dat0 line, at the picofly joint. would that be possible? I am not familiar with dat0 reballs :)
don't have one. but the line shows continuity. 620 reading in diode mode
 

Dee87

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100% but my one starts!? OFW works no problem. Disconnected pico and boots into ofw. so must be a line that haven't soldered well. ill have to go back and see but im sure its the cmd line. might be bad solder joint even though it gives a good reading. very tricky. or emmc line wire not being hit to the correct dat0 point. maybe could have shifted to the dat1 point. Doubt it but don't want to go straight to that if i can help it. Do the small checks first and if all fails, back to reball again

Or try another pico board with 2.73fw. Who knows. Will try to be as methodical as possible so others will know whY to do better if they get stuck in my position.
add a second mosfet and it will boot B-)
the 3 oled i have tried the one mosfet on also would try to glitch very long.
when i added a second mosfet it worked flwless
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If you have a dat0 adapter, maybe you can use it to check your own dat0 line. connect it(but don't solder it) and check for continuity between the adapter and the end of your dat0 line, at the picofly joint. would that be possible? I am not familiar with dat0 reballs :)
why should he have to check it when he set a Permanent dat0 Adapter,that makes no sense.
 
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twins333

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add a second mosfet and it will boot B-)
the 3 oled i have tried the one mosfet on also would try to glitch very long.
when i added a second mosfet it worked flwless
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why should he have to check it when he set a Permanent dat0 Adapter,that makes no sense.
Because I was not familiar with how the permanent dat0 mod is done and I thought the dat0 was not connected properly(cold joint) :) I hoped that using the adapter he can confirm the permanent wire connected to the dat0 is ok, since the adapter can connect from a different angle.
 
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Danook28

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In the oled motherbord still the mod need cut cpu shell and mmc shell. But Flex Cable no need i want to soldring hwfly oled now...
 

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POPOLO

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Good Morning.

See images bellow.

Error code
*==
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Hello!
I forgot send a image of mosfet.

See image bellow.

Now the error changed.
Is ==* (long, long, small). CPU always reach BCT check. (No glitch reaction.

Wrong connection Capacitor
======================================================

suggestion
Use thick wire GND, VCC, PIN26, MOS-D, MOS-S
One side thin line PIN29,PIN28,PIN27,PIN15
BOOT card LOGO (OFW) strange phenomenon... Check PIN26
MOS-D, S are solidly welded and can indeed boot up stably
 

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Weird-Parking356

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Red is good, green is bad. If green after flash, then solder jumper. Reflash, and LED should be good.
i made the bridge but still i getting a green light
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Red is good, green is bad. If green after flash, then solder jumper. Reflash, and LED should be good.
i did the bridgde and still getting green light
 

NooBziN

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Wrong connection Capacitor
======================================================

suggestion
Use thick wire GND, VCC, PIN26, MOS-D, MOS-S
One side thin line PIN29,PIN28,PIN27,PIN15
BOOT card LOGO (OFW) strange phenomenon... Check PIN26
MOS-D, S are solidly welded and can indeed boot up stably
it varies a lot but it can be an option
 

Dee87

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Wrong connection Capacitor
======================================================

suggestion
Use thick wire GND, VCC, PIN26, MOS-D, MOS-S
One side thin line PIN29,PIN28,PIN27,PIN15
BOOT card LOGO (OFW) strange phenomenon... Check PIN26
MOS-D, S are solidly welded and can indeed boot up stably
There is no need for thicker wire then 0.1mm on oled with picofly , it makes no difference in anything. and beginners shouldnt use any thicker wire anyways all there gonne do with thicker wire is rip of pads
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i made the bridge but still i getting a green light
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i did the bridgde and still getting green light
there are completly different colors with the new firmware. we now have "morse code as issue discribtion "
 

Takezo-San

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add a second mosfet and it will boot B-)
the 3 oled i have tried the one mosfet on also would try to glitch very long.
when i added a second mosfet it worked flwless
Post automatically merged:


why should he have to check it when he set a Permanent dat0 Adapter,that makes no
How would I add it with this mod? Which way too orientate it round.
 

linuxares

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Second time more precise
Probably safer than the dat0 adapters ;D

Please can share your opinion : about time cost, reliability, risk, difficulty when comparing with emmc reball?
time: No idea, reliability: should be as good as the emmc reball. Hell might be safer since you don't touch the emmc.
risk, EXTREME. Difficulty? Very! You can go to far and damage other traces on the otherside of the board for example.
 

FreeLander

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Hi Guys. Go easy on your boy, but I messed up on this OLED big time. I kept getting *== and I would grind the CLK more and more to hopefully get a glitch going but instead, I ended up with this: (VIEWERS DISCRETION ADVISED):

Looking at the bright side, I've always wanted to learn how to work with emmc, I'll just give it a go and see if I could solder CLK directly into it.

Notes:
I still get 0.6v on multimeter when I point it on the trace right beneath the APU (tried soldering there, no luck)
I've changed the pico and re-wired the whole thing.

For new comers:
THIS IS INSTALLER's fault.
 

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abal1000x

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Hi Guys. Go easy on your boy, but I messed up on this OLED big time. I kept getting *== and I would grind the CLK more and more to hopefully get a glitch going but instead, I ended up with this: (VIEWERS DISCRETION ADVISED):

Looking at the bright side, I've always wanted to learn how to work with emmc, I'll just give it a go and see if I could solder CLK directly into it.

Notes:
I still get 0.6v on multimeter when I point it on the trace right beneath the APU (tried soldering there, no luck)
I've changed the pico and re-wired the whole thing. I guess some OLEDs just like to act up.
the *==, have you check the cmd pullup resistor on the switch mainboard ?
 

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