If you don't do the current limiter mod the front port won't work with the 1tb drive. That why there is a compatibility list for usb thumb drive due to the 100mA current limit the manufacturer set. Some hard drive has how much amp they need specified on the drive.
OTG, external HDD and exploit questions
- Thread starter Windows_10_User
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If you don't do the current limiter mod the front port won't work with the 1tb drive. That why there is a compatibility list for usb thumb drive due to the 100mA current limit the manufacturer set. Some hard drive has how much amp they need specified on the drive.
If you own a soldering iron and have ever used it for ANYTHING you can do the power mod to both front ports in under 60sec after you get the device opened. It's literally a matter of dropping a blob of solder to connect two neighboring points - once for each USB port and you don't have to do both.
That said you can use an OTG cable and not need to hard mod it at all.
Here is the power mod in pictures:
If you go the easy route and use OTG, I personally prefer this style of cable since it can look basically stock if you tuck the HDD/SSD/Flash drive somewhere out of sight.
Link to Amazon listing
That said you can use an OTG cable and not need to hard mod it at all.
Here is the power mod in pictures:
Post automatically merged:
If you go the easy route and use OTG, I personally prefer this style of cable since it can look basically stock if you tuck the HDD/SSD/Flash drive somewhere out of sight.
Link to Amazon listing
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Last edited by esmith13,
?? POPStarter is the software used to play PS1 on a real PS2... PS Classic uses traditional emulation, not POPStarter.
POPStarter has issues on PS2 via USB because PS2 USB ports are USB 1.1 which is considerably slower than USB 2.0, which is what the PS Classic has.
I know but I was asking about POPStarter.
I can't make POPStarter work via SMB and I want to run both PS1 and PS2 games this way. I also want both PS1 and PS2 games to be in the same external HDD and even if, it seems, PS1 games don't lag (or less, at least) on POPStarter via USB unlike PS2's on OPL via USB, the PS2 mightn't provide enough energy to power a 2.5" external HDD unless an USB Y-cable connected to both PS2 USB ports or a self-powered USB hub connected to the PS2 are used with it but I don't want to use them and I also don't want to use a 3.5" external HDD but a 2.5" one so I have no choice but to learn how to run POPStarter via SMB or use IRISMAN to run PS1 games on the PS3, which I decided to (at least until I'm convinced to use the PSC to play them), since it's easier and more compatible than POPStarter.
Is the PSC's PS1 game compatibility good?
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
Autobleem 1.0 lets you use the stock interface but have the games launch with retroarch instead of the stock emulator. This has 3 main benefits:
1) Games run really really good
2) You can customise the visuals like any other retroarch setup, including scaling, shaders & graphics upgrades for 3D games
3) Lightgun support! Any "mouse style" lightgun will work which includes dolphin bar and wiimote, AE Lightgun and GUN4IR lightgun
1) Games run really really good
2) You can customise the visuals like any other retroarch setup, including scaling, shaders & graphics upgrades for 3D games
3) Lightgun support! Any "mouse style" lightgun will work which includes dolphin bar and wiimote, AE Lightgun and GUN4IR lightgun
This was super helpful. I'd had been reading mixed results with OTG adapters for the Playstation Classic. I bought 5 of them a back when Target was selling them for near $15 each. My plan was modify them with custom firmware and load up the entire PlayStation library on external drives and give them to family for Christmas. I forgot and they sat for a while. So now that project is going to happen again so I can finally do that and make some people happy.
Hearing that lightgun support works is even better because everyone I plan to give one of these to has a USB sensor bar and a couple Wiimotes floating around.
Just realize that wiimote support is based on having a Dolphin Bar which is what actually plugs into the classic and is seen as a mouse. Wiimotes won't work without it and mouse mode on a dolphin bar is limited to a single player.
That said, I never actually tried multiplayer lightgun on the classic with AE guns or Gun4ir either.
Good luck with your project!
Could you tell me what do you mean by "really good"? Why does it run them using Retroboot if the PSC can already run them without it (the same goes for Project Eris)?
Is AutoBleem better than Project Eris? Why is there no PSP core on PS2's, PS3's and PS Vita's RetroArch?
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
really good as in not crappy like the stock emulation.
both projects have pluses and minuses. pick which one suits your need more. personally, I jumped back and forth between them until Autobleem added lightgun support at which point that became the solid winner for me personally.
Not that your last question is even remotely on-subject, but ps2 can't handle it and ps3 & vita don't need retroarch to run psp as they both have superior methods to do it already.
OK, but I still don't get why it's crappy. Does it have a higher PS1 game compatibility? It seems Project Eris is more recent than AutoBleem and I don't care about light gun support, so should the former be installed? Is AutoBleem easier to install than Project Eris?
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
any non-ps1 games must run in retroarch. both project eris and autobleem use retroarch. project eris hasn't been updated since 2020 and autobleem was last updated mid 2022. if anything autobleem's retroarch is more up to date.
autobleem also can have games added without needing a pc app. autobleem can selectively use stock ps1 emulation or retroarch on a game by game basis. Autobleem makes minimal changes to the stock interface (personal preference for many people) yet still allows games only playable thanks to retroarch to be readily accessible in that stock interface.
at the end of the day, use whatever makes you happy but if you're asking for help picking one my vote will always be for autobleem unless project eris gets revived from the dead with a decent and feature rich update - which you shouldn't hold you breath for.
again, just my opinion.
So, is Project Eris more recent than AutoBleem but was updated longer ago? Is it easier to hack the PSC with AutoBleem than with Project Eris?
How is AutoBleem's/Project Eris' Retroboot updated?
Does AutoBleem's/Project Eris' Retroboot have a higher PS1 game compatibility than the stock PS1 emulation and do PSC's PS1 game compatibility lists found on the internet regard the stock emulation or Retroboot? What if some users don't want Retroboot to begin with?
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
Which power source supply be bought to connect to the OTG cable? According to what I read, 1A isn't enough to power the external HDD and 2.5A is needed.
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
Any OTG cable is fine as long as it has a Female Micro USB in ( for power), Male Micro USB (to PS Classic) and one (or more) Female USB-A for the storage device. If you use a mechanical HDD that needs extra power, then you upgrade the power supply that will be powering both your PS Classic and the storage device. 5v 3a would be recommended for a spinning/mechanical 2.5" HDD.
I personally prefer this type of cable since it allows hiding the HDD and power cords easier.
Rii F1 Micro USB Host OTG Adapter
I'm worried about having a power supply incapable of providing enough energy to power the external HDD. I ordered one called Playstation Classic BLADE AC adapter FT9006 just because it says it's compatible with the PSC but I didn't recall I had to get one to power the PSC and the 2.5" external HDD. Could you show me examples of USB 5V 3A european power supplies?
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
There is nothing to worry about unless the power supply is junk (tho a low amperage one that is junk is just as dangerous). As long as it is a 5v power supply that meets the minimum amps you need you are fine. The supply could be 5v 10a and it won't hurt your HDD or PSC. A power supply's amperage is the MAX it can provide. It doesn't force the full amount to your devices. There is ZERO harm in having extra amps available.
Your only concerns should be if it is a decent quality and that it is ONLY 5v, not 5v & 9v or 5v, 9v & 12v like QC 2.0 and QC3.0 chargers are.
I am in the US, so I would just be guessing as to what is a good European power supply.
Your only concerns should be if it is a decent quality and that it is ONLY 5v, not 5v & 9v or 5v, 9v & 12v like QC 2.0 and QC3.0 chargers are.
I am in the US, so I would just be guessing as to what is a good European power supply.
The thing is, I think the one I ordered is 5V but under 3A. How can it be known if it's decent?
Last edited by Windows_10_User,
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