NEWS UPDATE: July 22th - Team REBUG has started pre-orders for their Switch Dev Board!

Team REBUG has put on the final touches to their 'SwitchME' dev board for the Nintendo Switch console, they have added some 'breakout' solder pads for future expansion and other usages, but it still only needs 4 wires for normal installs on your Switch, and it allows full usage of all the various payloads from ReiNX to Atmosphere to SX OS.

Pricing Tiers:

• 1 – $7.49
• 2-9 – $7.29
• 10-19 – $7.00
• 20-49 – $6.79
• 50+ – $6.00

Nintendo Switch Dev Board

• Internal board to launch RCM payloads.
• Cortex m0+ dev board
• This is a pre-order, expect delivery in the very near future.
• Board Dimensions 0.59 x 1.05 inch

You can use this to launch Custom Firmware’s for the Nintendo Switch.

• Auto RCM Strapping – 5-6 wire install
• Software Auto RCM – 4 wire install
• Normal Mode – 4 wire install
• Auto Payload injection after reboot – 5-6 wire install

If no Auto RCM strapping used you will either need to use a jig or solder pin 1-10 on the right joycon. We will have detailed write-ups soon under the Nintendo Switch section of the site. You can also use this as standalone development board (Like the Trinket m0)

The project is basically finished now, they have moved into the 'pre-order' phase with amazing affordable pricing starting at only $7.49 each, so check it out now:

Official Site: Rebug
Source: MaxConsole

 

[guily6669]

As a matter of fact I do
If you leave connected to an always on power source such as the battery, outside of the dock and the switch powered off/sleep mode it will eat 3-5% battery life in 24 hours...

Damn it then I cant use any modchip, sometimes I leave things for months with no use so it means with that chip I might end up with a Switch that the battery might get below the safe voltage and might never come up again or lose a lot of its capacity, not for me then as I don't make heavy use of portable stuff .

Isnt there anyway you can use some kind of electronic switch that will completely kill power to the chip?

 

[Deleted-19228]

Think of it as an SX Pro soldered to the inside of your Switch. Or a little board that handles sending the payload automatically rather than needing a USB-C cable connected to a computer, Android, or iOS device.

Ah cool!

 

[evilsperm]

Damn it then I cant use any modchip, sometimes I leave things for months with no use so it means with that chip I might end up with a Switch that the battery might get below the safe voltage and might never come up again or lose a lot of its capacity, not for me then as I don't make heavy use of portable stuff .

Isnt there anyway you can use some kind of electronic switch that will completely kill power to the chip?

Yes I said connect it to a voltage drop out
But if you left your device disconnected for months it would be 100% dead anyway. I don't think the switch can last 2 weeks + completely off, but I could be wrong

 

[metaljay]

Yes I said connect it to a voltage drop out
But if you left your device disconnected for months it would be 100% dead anyway. I don't think the switch can last 2 weeks + completely off, but I could be wrong

What are the disadvantages of the voltage drop out? The risk the payload may not inject quick enough by the time the OS boots?

 

[guily6669]

Yes I said connect it to a voltage drop out
But if you left your device disconnected for months it would be 100% dead anyway. I don't think the switch can last 2 weeks + completely off, but I could be wrong

I left mine for like 2 months and was still at 100%, then turn off for around 2 months and was at 97% or something like that...

My Sony Xperia Z2 with a already bad battery I left it for a year OFF and it still incredibly reported 100%, though its not very likely at that charge as then it surely will drop faster, but still had quite a nice juice after 1 year of no use...

 

[link270]

Just over $10 total for me. Not too bad and it’ll be fun to play around with.

 

[subcon959]

Yes I said connect it to a voltage drop out
But if you left your device disconnected for months it would be 100% dead anyway. I don't think the switch can last 2 weeks + completely off, but I could be wrong

I don't think he means that. He is worried that once the battery reaches a "normal" dead state, the modchip will still continue to drain it beyond any safety cutoffs.

 

[isoboy]

I must've modded twenty consoles over the years and while I'm confident in my soldering skills I don't think I dare try this. I know my limits.

 

[mattytrog]

I don't think he means that. He is worried that once the battery reaches a "normal" dead state, the modchip will still continue to drain it beyond any safety cutoffs.

It will continue draining until the ldo regulator drops out. Which in my testing was 2.1v. dangerous territory for a lipo battery.

Like all mcu (this/trinket/Gemma), you must connect to a dropping supply. Or fit a tactile switch to hold while booting. Something.

The MCU will go to deep sleep while always connected to 5v, but it will flatten the battery.

I had my new trinketed switch charged nearly a fortnight ago. It's switched off now, but it has still got loads of power left in it. I'm connecting it to dropout power.

Just don't fuck with lithium batteries boys and girls. They will burn your house down.

 

[Kukielka]

I must've modded twenty consoles over the years and while I'm confident in my soldering skills I don't think I dare try this. I know my limits.

Uhm, I've been modding consoles since PSX days.This is about as hard as installing a WiiKey. You should be fine tbh.

 

[mattytrog]

Calm down boys! We all have our methods and we develop our own procedures. The important thing is we know what we are doing to achieve the same result. Testpoints? Caps? Who cares. As long as we can attack our switches with soldering irons, know what we are connecting and where to and they switch back on again, thats more important

 

[subcon959]

switch back on again

Where's the fun in that

 

[Acide0]

The solder seem not to be so hard, they seems like r4p4 or r4b4 on xbox 360 for rgh install.

 

[evilsperm]

The easier points to solder to by far are on the bottom of the motherboard. You will just have to be a lot more careful when removing everything to get to them.
The test points on the top are pretty easy if you are only soldering to gnd, d+, d-, battery.
But soldering to the caps and rcm strap line on the top is extremely difficult if you don't have every good tools and know what you are doing.
You can easily risk burning off the cap and bridging the rcm strap connection.

Does anyone know if you physically remove the nand from the motherboard if it puts the switch into rcm mode?
My switch is all sealed up at the moment or I would test myself, I just figured someone has already tried

 

[mattytrog]

The easier points to solder to by far are on the bottom of the motherboard. You will just have to be a lot more careful when removing everything to get to them.
The test points on the top are pretty easy if you are only soldering to gnd, d+, d-, battery.
But soldering to the caps and rcm strap line on the top is extremely difficult if you don't have every good tools and know what you are doing.
You can easily risk burning off the cap and bridging the rcm strap connection.

Does anyone know if you physically remove the nand from the motherboard if it puts the switch into rcm mode?
My switch is all sealed up at the moment or I would test myself, I just figured someone has already tried

Yes. With NAND removed, RCM.

Been looking at a way to trigger RCM instead of pin 10/volup shenanigans, cut power to NAND via MCU. Then when booted, restore power to NAND.

 

[evilsperm]

Yes. With NAND removed, RCM.

Nice!
ok time to just strap the nand instead of pin 10

 

[Bladexdsl]

How hard would this be to solder?

Medium level?

you need to tiny solder

 

[mattytrog]

So, easy way would to be chop 1.8v to nand with MCU...When payload sent, switch back on. Need a level shifter though unless you do it with a t****** or something...

Would involve cutting trace and joining either side 2 GPIOs

 

[Deleted User]

The easier points to solder to by far are on the bottom of the motherboard. You will just have to be a lot more careful when removing everything to get to them.
The test points on the top are pretty easy if you are only soldering to gnd, d+, d-, battery.
But soldering to the caps and rcm strap line on the top is extremely difficult if you don't have every good tools and know what you are doing.
You can easily risk burning off the cap and bridging the rcm strap connection.

Does anyone know if you physically remove the nand from the motherboard if it puts the switch into rcm mode?
My switch is all sealed up at the moment or I would test myself, I just figured someone has already tried

Will gnd d+ d- and battery be enough if you have a modified joycon? Would be easier for my second switch xD

 

[garyopa]

These are no fun at all to install as it just plain old boring tiny soldering

I love and miss the modding days when we had to 'drill' into the wii drive chip to solder in 3 wires next to each other, or on the x360 where we had to drill in the board, not to mention all that black hard glue all over chips to make it hard to get to solder points.