Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

postnutclarity

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I happen to find another technician who can do micro-soldering. He wasn’t experienced with switches but like you guys, he chuckled at the work the previous guy did when I asked if he can clean it up . Looks like he really cleaned it up, what do you guys think? It now glitches!


Edit: Apparently there’s still some inconsistent glitching, it seems to be D0 and/or RST again. Would appreciate some leads to see what may be wrong.
 

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Last edited by postnutclarity,

abal1000x

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I happen to find another technician who can do micro-soldering. He wasn’t experienced with switches but like you guys, he chuckled at the work the previous guy did when I asked if he can clean it up . Looks like he really cleaned it up, what do you guys think? It now glitches!
Thats beautiful
 

Dee87

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I happen to find another technician who can do micro-soldering. He wasn’t experienced with switches but like you guys, he chuckled at the work the previous guy did when I asked if he can clean it up . Looks like he really cleaned it up, what do you guys think? It now glitches!


Edit: Apparently there’s still some inconsistent glitching, it seems to be D0 and RST again. Would appreciate some leads to see what may be wrong.
well that looks pretty good , way better then the other guy.
whats the code?
 

TheFlymo

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Then its left with this issue you need to check:
You could read it on the Q&A

Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point

Editted:
I think i misunderstand your cases. I previously think that your picofly are randomly reset, even though success. But it seems not. after read your comment again i think the flows already correct:
1. Blue light (power on)
2. White led (write the payload to emmc, only once. Next boot wont happened)
3. Blue light (glitching)
4. Short white (success)
5. No Sd should shown.

If you don't see anything then its lcd connector problem

It will be better if you could upload some video on it. I might make a wrong assumption.
Hey no problem, thanks for thinking about my issue, it's appreciated!

I agree, it feels like the Switch and Picofly is working corretly but I somehow I broke the screen. Dumb question time- is the long connector between the motherboard and daughterboard (around the battery) responsible for the screen? Because that's the only thing I actually disconnected in order to unplug the battery.
 

deeps

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I’ll see if I can get a video but my technician said either RST or D0.

I would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
Post automatically merged:

For those of you who like big pads and cannot lie, here's a super easy and perfectly working mosfet position for the OLED with virtually zero risk to surrounding components.
 

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abal1000x

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Hey no problem, thanks for thinking about my issue, it's appreciated!

I agree, it feels like the Switch and Picofly is working corretly but I somehow I broke the screen. Dumb question time- is the long connector between the motherboard and daughterboard (around the battery) responsible for the screen? Because that's the only thing I actually disconnected in order to unplug the battery.
Yes it is. Its connect the backlight 4pin (right of 4pin power+vol flex) to the main board.
Post automatically merged:

I would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
Post automatically merged:

For those of you who like big pads and cannot lie, here's a super easy and perfectly working mosfet position for the OLED with virtually zero risk to surrounding components.
great finding :grog:

So i think any place on those power rail (VDD_1V) could be used as the glitch point.

Still waiting for my stencil to come, hopefully gonna learn reballing this weekend.
 
Last edited by abal1000x,
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jmmc

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I would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
Post automatically merged:

For those of you who like big pads and cannot lie, here's a super easy and perfectly working mosfet position for the OLED with virtually zero risk to surrounding components.

If you find any alternative like this for v1/v2/lite let us know!!
 

Jagovi

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Hi! Somebody could said to me the value / specs of those components (around the RST point).
 

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TheFlymo

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Yes it is. Its connect the backlight 4pin (right of 4pin power+vol flex) to the main board.
Post automatically merged:
The odd thing is that I do have backlight, but no picture. Thankyou for your help though- I've ordered a couple of replacement flex cables, let's see!
 

postnutclarity

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I would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
That would truly be unfortunate 🥲. Is there a way to confirm definitively?

Otherwise, I do have an extra picofly pcb board. Just that it’s currently flashed with 2.74 and my understanding is that firmware version is unstable.
 

deeps

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Do you know the size? Maybe 0201???

yep 0201. if you need to replace them, you can steal from the rp2040-zero
That would truly be unfortunate 🥲. Is there a way to confirm definitively?

Otherwise, I do have an extra picofly pcb board. Just that it’s currently flashed with 2.74 and my understanding is that firmware version is unstable.

2.74 is stable on 95% of rp2040's, so it should (probably) be fine.
 

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