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<blockquote data-quote="Phantomas77" data-source="post: 10155555" data-attributes="member: 624897"><p>In order to <strong>NOT</strong> cut the shield and fit the Picofly RP2040-Zero board:</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><strong>For OLED</strong> --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of RAM heatsink (where HWFLY usually sits) --> there's at least 0.5mm distance between the shield and the RP2040 board upon final assembly.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><strong>For Lite</strong> --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of eMMC shield --> it's a perfect pocket when closing the shield, fits well and no pressure to RP board. (If you keep it on top of RAM heatsink, it will create a bump and force the assembly).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">For V1/V2 --> don't know, will let others to comment.</li> </ul><p>You can get even a slimmer install if you remove as well the LDO on the back of RP2040.</p><p></p><p>Always remember to insulate everything (including the sides of the RP2040) with polyimide or similar tape.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Phantomas77, post: 10155555, member: 624897"] In order to [B]NOT[/B] cut the shield and fit the Picofly RP2040-Zero board: [LIST] [*][B]For OLED[/B] --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of RAM heatsink (where HWFLY usually sits) --> there's at least 0.5mm distance between the shield and the RP2040 board upon final assembly. [*][B]For Lite[/B] --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of eMMC shield --> it's a perfect pocket when closing the shield, fits well and no pressure to RP board. (If you keep it on top of RAM heatsink, it will create a bump and force the assembly). [*]For V1/V2 --> don't know, will let others to comment. [/LIST] You can get even a slimmer install if you remove as well the LDO on the back of RP2040. Always remember to insulate everything (including the sides of the RP2040) with polyimide or similar tape. [/QUOTE]
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