PS5 UART commands

stetofix

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You mean replaced? Can I just solder in a new one or do I need a donor?

First, check gddr6 ram ic #7 if shows any different in behavior in compare to the other seven ram ics. (Heat, voltage/resistance readings).
If you want to replace the the ic you need the same type of gddr6 ram ic. It could be from a donor or another source. It is not possible to mix different brands.
 

vsam1978

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Hi guys Ps5 edm 10 ,bluray version, 5 sec blod uart code:
80810001 General Power Failure
C0810002 HDMI IC PROBLEM or Power Failure
All standby voltages presents, diode readings fine ,no short on motherboard, but stuck at 10 mAmps on boot sequence...
HDMI IC already replaced, what next Southbridge, Rams,SSD controller? Thx.
Hi, did you manage to find it?
 

gecko702

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First, check gddr6 ram ic #7 if shows any different in behavior in compare to the other seven ram ics. (Heat, voltage/resistance readings).
If you want to replace the the ic you need the same type of gddr6 ram ic. It could be from a donor or another source. It is not possible to mix different brands.
I keep getting that 80830000 code, basically it could be the APU because sometimes I get this code: C0020303 APU not responding and: 80C00140 so I'm SOL then not even a tech could fix it? but if its possible to fix it, would it be worth it? maybe can go bad again?
 

slion43

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I tested a bit around and shorted some power lines and read out the error codes. Clear the error codes and repeat it two times and test the same at a second ps5 board.

A short on WiFi/BT at the pmic 3.3V line results in the two error codes:

errlog 0: OK 00000000 80810001 166A347C FFFF0042 00000000 217C 0004 FFFF FFFF:BA
errlog 1: OK 00000000 80C00136 166A347C FFFF0042 00000000 217C 0004 FFFF FFFF:CD

The second row is the error code, the third the timestamp


View attachment 407545

View attachment 407546
i have the same error codes 80810001 and 80C00136. What was your fix for this? i can confirm the big cap and the two small ones at number 2 in your photo are shorted to ground. So do i replace all 3 of those components only or is the WIFI module on the top left causing the short and should I replace that first?
 

stetofix

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I would check what is getting warm.
It could be one of the caps around the bug converter, the bug converter itself, the wifi ic or on the back of the wifi ic one of the caps.
 

slion43

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I would check what is getting warm.
It could be one of the caps around the bug converter, the bug converter itself, the wifi ic or on the back of the wifi ic one of the caps.
IMG_2055redblue.JPG


Thanks for the advice!! I took a look and i was able to find cap 1 appear to get warm (blue arrow in image) at F7002 vs the other caps (red arrows) that are all short to ground. Will try to replace that first cap that appear to get warm. On the wifi IC caps, there appear to be 7 caps short to ground (see red arrows).

Is it better to replace the wifi ic first from a donor board or replace each cap first and check again? Where specifically can i inject voltage (1volt 3amps?) to check those caps to see if they are getting warm?


IMG_2054_redarows.JPG
 

stetofix

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Remove only the blue marked cap and check for a short again.
If the short is gone, there is no need to remove/replace anything else.

All your marked caps are on one line.
So it is normal that all are showing the short, which is caused mostly by one failed component.
It doesn't matter where on this line you inject voltage.

If the short is solved by removing the blue marked cap, I recommend putting back a working cap.
For testing/system start the cap is not needed.
 

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