Hacking RELEASE [Trinket] [Rebug] [Others] [Modchip Software] *NEW* Fusee_Suite UF2 packages

[User34]

Hello,
I see that the "Fusee-Suite" update from mattytrog is now V7 on github.
I'm suspicious since he's not connected on this site for 2 years.
Does it have any bug with the v7 version?
If this version does not suit me, how do I re-flash the m0 trinket to put the V6?
Which one would you choose for a v1 switch (not patched) that will be under atmosphere?
Thank you for your help.

 

[popy]

Running v7 on two devices without an issue. Yes, just flash v6 to downgrade.

 

[binkinator]

Running Vu on two devices without an issue. Yes, just flash v6 to downgrade.

Being that “u” is close to “7” on my keyboard and I’ve typed u when I meant 7 before I’m going to assume he meant V7. 😀

V7 is stripped down quite a bit and is more…newbie friendly?

All versions “work”. It’s just a matter of which features you want. I prefer V6. Bigger isn’t always better…

(I do believe it’s Matty tidying up his repot…why would “ze-hackers” be making things neater and mention length of time away from gbatemp on GitHub? Then again, maybe I’m falling for the greatest long con fishing game ever?)

 

[popy]

Being that “u” is close to “7” on my keyboard and I’ve typed u when I meant 7 before I’m going to assume he meant V7. 😀

V7 is stripped down quite a bit and is more…newbie friendly?

All versions “work”. It’s just a matter of which features you want. I prefer V6. Bigger isn’t always better…

(I do believe it’s Matty tidying up his repot…why would “ze-hackers” be making things neater and mention length of time away from gbatemp on GitHub? Then again, maybe I’m falling for the greatest long con fishing game ever?)

Yeah, meant v7 😂

 

[User34]

Thanks @popy & @binkinator .

What is the process to re-flash the trinket m0 when it is soldered in the console (as there will be no usb port on the chip)?

 

[BaamAlex]

Thanks @popy & @binkinator .

What is the process to reflash the trinket m0 when it is soldered in the console (as there will be no usb port on the chip)?

Via usb port

 

[popy]

Boot OOS, connect USB, put into standby (long press power and select standby), double press the back of the switch near the reset button fast.

It should appear in update mode in windows. Drag your new files. This always work for me

 

[User34]

Do you have to drag the file "part 1" then "part 2" (as in the 1st flash) or just the file "part 2"?

I would like to boot directly on the cfw : for this reason I will solder the vol+ strap (point 0 on the trinket m0).
If I want to boot on the ofw, what is the procedure in this case?

Thanks a lot!

 

[popy]

Yes, part 1 of your desired version and then part 2

 

[popy]

V7 boots directly to cfw. You can press vol- to enter hekate

 

[User34]

@popy , the v7 boots directly on the CFW without the vol+ strap?

 

[popy]

No, than you need autorcm

 

[User34]

OK I suspected but I was asking because maybe I had misunderstood.
So I will weld the vol+ strap.

Thank you very much for your help because now everything is clear!

 

[popy]

You're welcome.

 

[Quezacotl]

my trinket arrived and its time to solder.

I have pulled the board fron the chassis and soldering to the underside alternate points but even doing that, there is one which is a tight spot, the Alt 3v supply.

I have tested with a meter and two smaller pads next to it are part of the same track so it makes it a little easier not having to worry about them but the components surrounding the pads did make it a solder that had to be done with care.

Not done any of the others yet apart from tinning all the required pads but those are all going to be straightforward

I have the luxury of this being a second switch, i expect this would be super stressful for someone who is soldering to their only unit!

Having studied the front side, i imagine there have been a few upset people who have destroyed their mainboard, i could solder to that side but when there are proper pads on the back, it isn't worth the elevated risk of soldering to the 0603 size capacitor for 3v

Soldering on the front side has also it's perks. No need to remove all cables and screws risking of breaking them and you can test right away after install.

 

[steve_fox]

Soldering on the front side has also it's perks. No need to remove all cables and screws risking of breaking them and you can test right away after install.

There is not really any risk of breaking cables, if you dont go in like the hulk its not a problem and removing the board only takes 5 mins.

You have far, far more risk soldering to the minute points on the front side than pulling the board and using the bigger solder points there.

 

[randy_w]

You have far, far more risk soldering to the minute points on the front side than pulling the board and using the bigger solder points there.

Exactly, that Vol+ point on the front is no joke. It's even harder to solder to compared to oled's CLK/CMD points. It's almost guaranteed you'll bridge it to the small triangle mark next to it and I almost destroyed the black resistor when cleaning it up. Just use the point on the other side, much easier to work on. Plus you don't want to work on the motherboard without taking it from the switch, you can easily destroy the plastic shell with your iron.

 

[binkinator]

Exactly, that Vol+ point on the front is no joke. It's even harder to solder to compared to oled's CLK/CMD points. It's almost guaranteed you'll bridge it to the small triangle mark next to it and I almost destroyed the black resistor when cleaning it up. Just use the point on the other side, much easier to work on. Plus you don't want to work on the motherboard without taking it from the switch, you can easily destroy the plastic shell with your iron.
View attachment 309650

I think the accepted vernacular for the (v+) pad is “it‘s like jerking off a gnat!” Good microscope, good iron…still hated the bejesus out of that one.

 

[popy]

I am also modding my switches without takeing out the board.
Like @binkinator said, you need a microscope and good iron, than it's no problem.

 

[steve_fox]

I have both a microscope and a decent iron but for the sake of 5 mins to take the board out the chassis it makes no sense to solder everything on the CPU side when there are proper pads to solder too .

I am soldered to both sides of the board.