Nintendo Switch consoles with HWFly - later problems caused by the heat generated by the consoles?

Werner434

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Hey guys, I did my first conversion yesterday. It worked well. I'll do one thing differently next time, but that's just a detail.

In order to avoid a possible undesirable development, I am now concerned with the question of whether problems can later occur in the various work areas for the conversion with HWFly on the OLED mainboard due to the console's own heat (when playing games).

For example at the soldering points of the

-CPU Flex Ribbon Cable

and especially at the soldering points

-DAT0 adapter (C-Point) with or without hot air.

as well as

- Conversion without DAT-0 adapter (reballing)

I would be very happy to have a discussion about this...
 

urherenow

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If your system gets hot enough to melt a solder joint, then I question both your choice of solder, and your use of thermal paste. If you did not secure your dat0 adapter, clk, and cmd points with solder mask, then you haven’t been paying attention to all of the people who end up with problems. Those points are tiny, and the joints can break. With mask on all 3, I don’t foresee any issues. As for the adapter, I’m talking about masking around the edges, not covering the whole thing. Even the small adapter with the solder anchor point needs it (I don’t think that particular adapter is in use anymore… at least I hope not…)
 
Last edited by urherenow,

meha

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so to my understanding you are asking if heat from cpu can melt solder points and cause problems? for solder to melt the temp would have to be 200C+
No the console would shut off before cpu reaches such dangerous high temperatures because such temps would kill the pcb, and even if it would reach temp over 100C, the solder points are not directly connected so the temp would drop while being conducted through air, which then would not be enough energy to melt solder
(unless you place chip directly on top of heatpipe for no reason, which could be harmful )
 
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Werner434

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It is about this statement from one of the professionals, also pointing out that there may be other opinions:

"I no longer reflow the DAT0 connection because, statistically and on average, it only lasts three months. Different solder-tin materials an compositions an the internal heat from the console caused cracks in the eMMC balls."
 

Hayato213

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It is about this statement from one of the professionals, also pointing out that there may be other opinions:

"I no longer reflow the DAT0 connection because, statistically and on average, it only lasts three months. Different solder-tin materials an compositions an the internal heat from the console caused cracks in the eMMC balls."

Well obviously the guy does a shitty soldering job, I have my OLED HWFLY for about 10 months now no issue.
 

meha

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It is about this statement from one of the professionals, also pointing out that there may be other opinions:

"I no longer reflow the DAT0 connection because, statistically and on average, it only lasts three months. Different solder-tin materials an compositions an the internal heat from the console caused cracks in the eMMC balls."
is this professional guy starting with s?
 

Werner434

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yes, with "s" starting.
Post automatically merged:

Everything seems to be going fine. But I noticed that recently the wifi stopped working. The switch reliably finds the various WLAN networks and also notices changes, but cannot connect. Neither with my normal WLAN, nor guest access and also not via iPhone via hotspot. You enter the password and there is no connection.

Concerns the CFW and OFW.

Does anyone have any idea why this might be?
 
Last edited by Werner434,

l7777

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yes, with "s" starting.
Post automatically merged:

Everything seems to be going fine. But I noticed that recently the wifi stopped working. The switch reliably finds the various WLAN networks and also notices changes, but cannot connect. Neither with my normal WLAN, nor guest access and also not via iPhone via hotspot. You enter the password and there is no connection.

Concerns the CFW and OFW.

Does anyone have any idea why this might be?
That's a software problem not hardware. If the hardware was broken there would be no networks shown. I believe you can reset the network without clearing everything else.
 

Werner434

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But it happened at OFW and CFW at the same time.

And I noticed that joycons work very well on the Switch, wirelessly not working well:

1. Are not synchronized for wireless when physically connected to the switch

2. difficult to synchronize (you get it right after several attempts)

3. Despite synchronization the buttons do not work

4. Events occur on the Switch that would otherwise only occur with a stick drift. The controllers certainly don't have stick drift. I also tried several controllers. The same phenomenon with everything.

In addition, the problem with not connecting to the WLAN.

(WLAN networks are reliably displayed and updated).

What can be broken?

It must have happened during the conversion.
 

linuxares

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You sure your wifi card is seated properly and the antennas connected to it isn't lose?

Ignore, it's soldered on the OLED
 

l7777

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But it happened at OFW and CFW at the same time.

And I noticed that joycons work very well on the Switch, wirelessly not working well:

1. Are not synchronized for wireless when physically connected to the switch

2. difficult to synchronize (you get it right after several attempts)

3. Despite synchronization the buttons do not work

4. Events occur on the Switch that would otherwise only occur with a stick drift. The controllers certainly don't have stick drift. I also tried several controllers. The same phenomenon with everything.

In addition, the problem with not connecting to the WLAN.

(WLAN networks are reliably displayed and updated).

What can be broken?

It must have happened during the conversion.
Did it ever work properly after the mod?
 

Werner434

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yes! WLAN worked well after the mod.

What I just noticed is that the sheathing of the connection cable for the WLAN antenna at the top right is slightly damaged in one place. The lines are undamaged, only the sheathing.
 

Werner434

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I just swapped the antenna at the top right for one with a intact connection cable and: It doesn't work either.

What can I do?
 
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