How to fix digitizer issues on V2 switches without a modchip (Solved)

Lord_Set

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So as a hobby I pick up, upgrade and fix switches off eBay. Lately I have been getting v1 or v2 laminated screens from a supplier in China. They work and look great but 1 in 10 or so have issues with the digitizer. I tried a number of different solutions to no avail. Until today. It does require a usable V1 board. So the calibration information for the digitizer is stored on the game cart reader daughter board. If you're replacing the digitizer/screen, the switch is already almost completely apart. Simply take the daughter board from your v2, throw in the v1 motherboard. Load up Hekate, and run the touch screen calibration. Shutdown. swap in your V2 motherboard and it will work like a charm. I realize this is a bit of a niche use case for people who are familiar and comfortable with switch deconstruction. However I didn't see the information anywhere else and figured it would be useful to pass on. As I often see threads about digitizer issues and Nintendo has no official calibration tool for the digitizers.

I got a V2 digitizer working flawlessly on a V1 but havent tried visa versa but will follow up when I have had time to try. For those with a v1 motherboard to use to essentially flash the game cartridge daughter board you can easily fix digitizer issues on a v2 without a modchip.

I have noticed quite a few posts of this issue but never this solution so figured it would be worth passing it along for those who do repair work.
 

jkyoho

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Good to know Hekate calibration can fix this issue.
FYI the FW is stored on the FT9CJ chip on the cartridge daughter board. And the FW differs from 2 type of digitizer #1 NFT-K12D, #2 E226116(QR code on flex). I've tried v1 daughter board with same type digitizer on v2 and they works, so the same way around.
So in theory the Hekate could only fatch the Mainboard FW to the daughter board, so make sure the donor one is the digitizer you have on the receiver daughter board.
 
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