Hardware Xbox 360 controller - lifted pads on a trigger

Borgman2018

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Hi, I just found a wireless controller board on my box of controller parts, everything works except that it's missing the pads of the right trigger (it was long time ago, I was inexperienced :shy:).

If you look at the picture I posted, I think I found two of the three traces needed to make contact (correct me if I'm wrong), but where do I find the third trace?


Apparently, I cannot post the picture because it's considered "hyperlink", is there a way to solve this deadlock?





P.S. if this is the wrong section/forum/site to ask something like this can you direct me to the right community?
 

FAST6191

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if you break up the url http: // www. somesite .tld or something like that it tends to get through. A mod can edit it back in as well.

Anyway on http://www.modjunkiez.com/Guides_ep_40.html (bottom of the page) is a few PCB shots for a couple of the revisions out there. The three holes appear to be where it goes for one of the revisions. One looks like ground, the other power (has a capacitor as well) and I guess the other is the sweep (if it is a variable resistor it makes sense).

We will have to see yours to see if there is anything that might trouble you here.
 

Borgman2018

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...(bottom of the page) is a few PCB shots for a couple of the revisions out there. The three holes appear to be where it goes for one of the revisions. One looks like ground, the other power (has a capacitor as well) and I guess the other is the sweep (if it is a variable resistor it makes sense).

We will have to see yours to see if there is anything that might trouble you here.


Thanks, according to that page my controller has the board called "CG2", wait, I just found out that I can directly upload a file, here's the picture:
20180917_125110 - Copia.jpg
 

FAST6191

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Yeah looks like the CG2 revision

Anyway from the top of that image. The top pad appears to still be there under that solder so you can possibly get it back easily enough. In this case it looks like it just goes from the positive rail (it is a fairly fat trace which tends to be done for things taking power). The pads next to it saying C32 are a capacitor of some form and might want to be looked into (the other version did not have it); on a soldermask the C usually means capacitor and the picture I saw of another board earlier earlier all but confirmed it, not sure what value it will be but probably nothing serious and you are unlikely to overshoot it anyway ins surface mount stuff. All it will really do is smooth out the power and reduce some noise so you might not even need it, certainly I would expect you can fix the other pads and at least test it. The positive side of the capacitor pad seems to be gone (not unexpected for it to be ripped off with a slipping iron wielded by someone new to it all) so you might also have to fly a lead from the positive to the trace of the leg of the trigger switch it would have gone in originally, and maybe also sort another ground connection.

The middle one looks like a sweeper (if the triggers are analogue it needs to have a way to note it). The pad is very gone. To fix it you are going to have to either scrape away some of the trace just to the left and solder the pin onto that or follow the trace to where it lands and solder to that (it appears to vanish into the bottom via between C14 and D4, right near the 4 of the C14). Have not got a back shot to hand to see where it might pop out.

The bottom one then looks like a ground wire (it goes nowhere else by the looks of things and it is the only one left) as all the surrounding board is one big bit of copper. The red covers it but from what I can see it is gone as well. Take a wire to any part of the ground you like and can reassemble the case with.

Anyway welcome to electronics repair. This is a nice thing to get started with. I don't know what second hand wireless 360 controllers go for around you but here they don't go for a lot (it is considered by most to be old tech and something to be cleared out of the garage/attic). Depending upon your gear and skills it might be easier to get one of those.
 

Borgman2018

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Yeah looks like the CG2 revision

Anyway from the top of that image. The top pad appears to still be there under that solder so you can possibly get it back easily enough. In this case it looks like it just goes from the positive rail (it is a fairly fat trace which tends to be done for things taking power). The pads next to it saying C32 are a capacitor of some form and might want to be looked into (the other version did not have it); on a soldermask the C usually means capacitor and the picture I saw of another board earlier earlier all but confirmed it, not sure what value it will be but probably nothing serious and you are unlikely to overshoot it anyway ins surface mount stuff. All it will really do is smooth out the power and reduce some noise so you might not even need it, certainly I would expect you can fix the other pads and at least test it. The positive side of the capacitor pad seems to be gone (not unexpected for it to be ripped off with a slipping iron wielded by someone new to it all) so you might also have to fly a lead from the positive to the trace of the leg of the trigger switch it would have gone in originally, and maybe also sort another ground connection.

The middle one looks like a sweeper (if the triggers are analogue it needs to have a way to note it). The pad is very gone. To fix it you are going to have to either scrape away some of the trace just to the left and solder the pin onto that or follow the trace to where it lands and solder to that (it appears to vanish into the bottom via between C14 and D4, right near the 4 of the C14). Have not got a back shot to hand to see where it might pop out.

The bottom one then looks like a ground wire (it goes nowhere else by the looks of things and it is the only one left) as all the surrounding board is one big bit of copper. The red covers it but from what I can see it is gone as well. Take a wire to any part of the ground you like and can reassemble the case with.

Anyway welcome to electronics repair. This is a nice thing to get started with. I don't know what second hand wireless 360 controllers go for around you but here they don't go for a lot (it is considered by most to be old tech and something to be cleared out of the garage/attic). Depending upon your gear and skills it might be easier to get one of those.



Thanks, so you say that the third one it's just ground, then it's easier than I thought it would have been. Btw, here's a picture of the back, in case you'd need it.
20180924_123621.jpg



The genuine Microsoft wireless controllers are surprisingly not so cheap (at least for what they're worth), and I have all the gear needed, it will cost me only a bit of time.

Ops, I just noticed that the board misses the potentiometers for the right analog stick, I hope the ones that i found on my parts box work (at least the pads are intact there).
 

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