What do you think of this build?

Discussion in 'Computer Games and General Discussion' started by KinGamer7, Aug 31, 2011.

Aug 31, 2011
  1. KinGamer7
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    Member KinGamer7 GBAtemp Regular

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    This is the PC I wish to build once I have saved up enough money to buy everything.

    [​IMG]

    I think all the parts are compatible, but I just wanted to double-check with more knowledgeable members. Any thoughts? [​IMG]
     
  2. exangel

    Member exangel executioner angel

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    I'm not much familiar with shopping in the UK, but it looks like a great build. There may be a couple places where you can save some money without taking a performance hit.

    If you intend to use your HDD for storage more than running apps (which I'm assuming you are, having selected an SSD large enough to install several games and software suites) then you really don't need to invest in high end SATA III 7200 RPM. But if half your apps will be running off the HDD then you can ignore my advice to spend less on the mechanical disk.

    I haven't worked with an MSI board recently though I've never had a foul experience with them.

    I built an i7 system on a GIGABYTE board last week and it was for around the same budget you've set for yourself after currency conversion. However I went with higher end DDR3 after examining what was the max supported by the board without overclocking (the board I picked expressed support up to DDR3 2133 I believe, though I left all the bios settings at default due to a time crunch. but it didnt cost much more to make sure I'd picked an 8GB kit that was the max supported speed for the motherboard I chose, even if the CPU I selected didn't benefit at the time (I did the same for my own AMD based recent build which is my latest blog post if you click my profile)
    The latency for the ram in your selection is lower than the kit I picked though, so performance-wise you might wind up with stuff being on par or unnoticeable in difference.
    Memory is actually not my best field of expertise with hardware anymore though, I'm still reading up on it through several overclocking forums and blogs.

    I don't follow nVidia closely for the same reason I don't follow Intel closely, I've usually focused on budget builds and nVidia's always been better but significantly pricier with the top end stuff as with Intel. So I haven't much to say about your GPU selection.

    Not sure what your criteria for selecting a mouse is, but I've used Logitech's G500 before and it seems to offer all that the G9x does if I just gloss over the feature list, and it's a bit less expensive. I wound up sending it to a former WoW buddy though because it was honestly too big for my little hands and I use a Razer Naga mouse now. However, if your gaming doesn't require a lot of keybinds, and/or you do little to no MMORPG gaming, I wouldnt recommend the Naga because it's pretty expensive.
    If you only need a 5 button the Razer DeathAdder is sooo nice and comfortable, and I actually got the Razer StarCraft gaming mouse for free(!) from Newegg with my last parts order and I could sell it to you over the trading forum at a very fair discount from MSRP if your post count is high enough to see that forum here on the temp. (I haven't even opened the Starcraft II mouse because I have what I need right now and didn't have plans for it. Newegg was giving it as a bundled gift for every BlackWidow Ultimate purchase XD
     
  3. iggloovortex

    Member iggloovortex GBAtemp Advanced Fan

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  4. trumpet-205

    Member trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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    A pricy build, but I don't see any compatibility problem.

    For money savings though,

    * Do you really need gaming mouse and keyboard?
    * Do you really need SSD?
    * Since you are using SSD for OS, do you really need a high end HDD?
    * Do you really plan to OC (I see you picked 2500K and P67)? If so what about third party HSF?
    * Did you factor in OS cost?

    For your info I just recently built a PC for about $830 ($650 + $180),

    Code:
    CPU - Intel Core i3 2100
    RAM - Kingston DDR3 ValuRAM 8GB
    GPU - XFX/AMD Radeon HD 6770
    Mobo - ASUS P8H61-M
    HDD - WD Caviar Blue 1TB
    DVD - Liteon DVD Burner
    PSU - Rosewill Green Series 430W
    Case - Rosewill Challenger
    Monitor - HP 23" LED Widescreen 1920x1080
    OS - Windows 7 OEM Home Premium
    TV Tuner - Hauppauge WinTVR-1250 (for free)
    Not the most powerful PC but definitely can do what needs to be done (and really fast).
     
  5. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    The only parts I can comment on are the storage, graphics and motherboard. Otherwise the build looks fine and rather similar to the one I built yesterday.

    Storage: the ideal setup is one high performance drive for booting the OS, and for everything else; high capacity ecogreen drives. If you're trying to save money, this means having either a Samsung Spinpoint F3 or a WD Caviar Black 1TB for booting. There's no point getting a SATA 6Gbs HDD because mechanical drives can't even reach 3Gbs yet. If money is no problem to you, then getting a SSD will be great. The best value SSD is the Crucial M4 series, and the fastest SSD is the OCZ Vertex 3 series. For everything else, get either 2TB Samsung F4EG drives or WD Caviar Green drives. Performance only significantly affects Windows, and games will run more or less the same no matter what drive it's put on.

    Graphics: as mentioned, the best GTX560 Ti is the MSI Twin frozr II/OC. You don't have to get it, but it is slightly better than the one you picked.

    Motherboard: the MSI P67A-GD53 is a slightly better motherboard to pick, and does much better in over clocking since the heatsinks don't heat up much when raising the voltages (unlike all other LGA 1155 motherboards). It's the third best motherboard for over clocking, and the other two cost over twice as much.

    I could comment on the keyboard/mouse, but I don't feel it's necessary. Everyone should pick their own in the same way everyone should pick their own chair.
     
  6. KinGamer7
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    Member KinGamer7 GBAtemp Regular

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    <!--quoteo(post=3862224:date=Aug 31 2011, 06:03 AM:name=exangel)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(exangel @ Aug 31 2011, 06:03 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=3862224"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->I'm not much familiar with shopping in the UK, but it looks like a great build. There may be a couple places where you can save some money without taking a performance hit.

    If you intend to use your HDD for storage more than running apps (which I'm assuming you are, having selected an SSD large enough to install several games and software suites) then you really don't need to invest in high end SATA III 7200 RPM. But if half your apps will be running off the HDD then you can ignore my advice to spend less on the mechanical disk.

    I haven't worked with an MSI board recently though I've never had a foul experience with them.

    I built an i7 system on a GIGABYTE board last week and it was for around the same budget you've set for yourself after currency conversion. However I went with higher end DDR3 after examining what was the max supported by the board without overclocking (the board I picked expressed support up to DDR3 2133 I believe, though I left all the bios settings at default due to a time crunch. but it didnt cost much more to make sure I'd picked an 8GB kit that was the max supported speed for the motherboard I chose, even if the CPU I selected didn't benefit at the time (I did the same for my own AMD based recent build which is my latest blog post if you click my profile)
    The latency for the ram in your selection is lower than the kit I picked though, so performance-wise you might wind up with stuff being on par or unnoticeable in difference.
    Memory is actually not my best field of expertise with hardware anymore though, I'm still reading up on it through several overclocking forums and blogs.

    I don't follow nVidia closely for the same reason I don't follow Intel closely, I've usually focused on budget builds and nVidia's always been better but significantly pricier with the top end stuff as with Intel. So I haven't much to say about your GPU selection.

    Not sure what your criteria for selecting a mouse is, but I've used Logitech's G500 before and it seems to offer all that the G9x does if I just gloss over the feature list, and it's a bit less expensive. I wound up sending it to a former WoW buddy though because it was honestly too big for my little hands and I use a Razer Naga mouse now. However, if your gaming doesn't require a lot of keybinds, and/or you do little to no MMORPG gaming, I wouldnt recommend the Naga because it's pretty expensive.
    If you only need a 5 button the Razer DeathAdder is sooo nice and comfortable, and I actually got the Razer StarCraft gaming mouse for free(!) from Newegg with my last parts order and I could sell it to you over the trading forum at a very fair discount from MSRP if your post count is high enough to see that forum here on the temp. (I haven't even opened the Starcraft II mouse because I have what I need right now and didn't have plans for it. Newegg was giving it as a bundled gift for every BlackWidow Ultimate purchase XD<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
    I forgot to mention this, but everything on that list is from ebuyer.com. That and Overclockers UK (as well as a couple of other sites) are considered best for computers in the UK. Prices tend to be a little bit steeper in the UK compared to the US regardless of build, but to other UK members this should look about right.

    For the SSD, I intend to have the OS, Adobe Suite, Nero Suite, Microsoft Office and Winamp; I went for 120GB in case I download any new programs (likely) that I'll use often, so I want to give myself some (ok, loads of) leeway in storage space on the SSD should I wish to use it. I was thinking of putting Steam on there as well, but I'll just install that to my HDD because of the fact that the game library is tied to the same directory.

    The reason I picked Nvidia is simply because eBuyer doesn't have any HD 6950/6970's in stock at all, so I just went for the Nvidia equivalent.

    I didn't put <i>too</i> much effort into picking a gaming mouse; all I did was google 'best gaming mouse 2011' and saw that the Logitech G9x was consistently topping plenty of lists, so I went on to Amazon, eBuyer, Overclcokers, etc. to check the reviews, and everybody loves it. I love the look of it myself, and if it's as comfortable to use as people say it is, I'm happy with it. <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

    <!--quoteo(post=3862229:date=Aug 31 2011, 06:08 AM:name=iggloovortex)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(iggloovortex @ Aug 31 2011, 06:08 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=3862229"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->i was told on my build the best 560ti graphics card was the:
    <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127565" target="_blank">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814127565</a>
    MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti

    Heres my build for reference
    <a href="http://gbatemp.net/index.php?showtopic=306672&st=0&p=3857564&" target="_blank">http://gbatemp.net/index.php?showtopic=306...;p=3857564&</a><!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
    I've heard the same about that card, but eBuyer doesn't have that version at all I'm afraid.

    <!--quoteo(post=3862278:date=Aug 31 2011, 07:04 AM:name=trumpet-205)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(trumpet-205 @ Aug 31 2011, 07:04 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=3862278"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->A pricy build, but I don't see any compatibility problem.

    For money savings though,

    * Do you really need gaming mouse and keyboard?
    * Do you really need SSD?
    * Since you are using SSD for OS, do you really need a high end HDD?
    * Do you really plan to OC (I see you picked 2500K and P67)? If so what about third party HSF?
    * Did you factor in OS cost?

    For your info I just recently built a PC for about $830 ($650 + $180),

    <!--c1--><div class='codetop'>CODE</div><div class='codemain'><!--ec1-->CPU - Intel Core i3 2100
    RAM - Kingston DDR3 ValuRAM 8GB
    GPU - XFX/AMD Radeon HD 6770
    Mobo - ASUS P8H61-M
    HDD - WD Caviar Blue 1TB
    DVD - Liteon DVD Burner
    PSU - Rosewill Green Series 430W
    Case - Rosewill Challenger
    Monitor - HP 23" LED Widescreen 1920x1080
    OS - Windows 7 OEM Home Premium
    TV Tuner - Hauppauge WinTVR-1250 (for free)<!--c2--></div><!--ec2-->

    Not the most powerful PC but definitely can do what needs to be done (and really fast).<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
    This is going to be my first proper gaming PC; I currently use an iMac for my computing needs, and the keyboard and Magic Mouse are hardly optimal for gaming. <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

    I'm willing to get an SSD for the benefits it gives in performance. I went for a high-end HDD because there's a good chance that I'll be using plenty of applications on there as well, but if the differences between SATA II and SATA III are marginal, I'll reconsider going for a cheaper alternative. I have never overclocked before, so I'll just stick with the stock fan for now; if I do wish to overclock in the future, however, then I'll have the appropriate hardware to do so. I didn't bother with the OS because I wanted to focus on the hardware, but that's taken care of already. <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

    <!--quoteo(post=3862372:date=Aug 31 2011, 08:39 AM:name=Originality)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Originality @ Aug 31 2011, 08:39 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=3862372"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->The only parts I can comment on are the storage, graphics and motherboard. Otherwise the build looks fine and rather similar to the one I built yesterday.

    Storage: the ideal setup is one high performance drive for booting the OS, and for everything else; high capacity ecogreen drives. If you're trying to save money, this means having either a Samsung Spinpoint F3 or a WD Caviar Black 1TB for booting. There's no point getting a SATA 6Gbs HDD because mechanical drives can't even reach 3Gbs yet. If money is no problem to you, then getting a SSD will be great. The best value SSD is the Crucial M4 series, and the fastest SSD is the OCZ Vertex 3 series. For everything else, get either 2TB Samsung F4EG drives or WD Caviar Green drives. Performance only significantly affects Windows, and games will run more or less the same no matter what drive it's put on.

    Graphics: as mentioned, the best GTX560 Ti is the MSI Twin frozr II/OC. You don't have to get it, but it is slightly better than the one you picked.

    Motherboard: the MSI P67A-GD53 is a slightly better motherboard to pick, and does much better in over clocking since the heatsinks don't heat up much when raising the voltages (unlike all other LGA 1155 motherboards). It's the third best motherboard for over clocking, and the other two cost over twice as much.

    I could comment on the keyboard/mouse, but I don't feel it's necessary. Everyone should pick their own in the same way everyone should pick their own chair.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
    My SSD will be primarily used for the OS and applications, with my games being on the HDD as 99% of them are from Steam. I should be fine as long as I stick with a 7200RPM HDD, right? If the difference between the WD Black and Green/Blue drives are negligible when it comes to gaming and accessing my storage (ie. 720p video files), then I'll go for the 2TB.

    As I mentioned earlier, that particular graphics card isn't available on Ebuyer. The motherboard is though, and it's £4.00 more expensive, so I can easily make the switch to that! <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

    I honestly don't mind if you comment on the K&M; I want to make this build as best as it can possibly be (in my budget range <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />), so I'm happy to have a slightly higher initial cost if it helps.
     
  7. Chhotu uttam

    Member Chhotu uttam DOH HO HO HO

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    SSD: I'd recommend to switch from Cosair to Crucial M4 SSD(64 or 120gb).The 120gb cost 140€.

    You can cut off some price from keyboard and mouse by getting a logitech bundle or just search nearby stores which suits the best.You can keep what you have as it is your choice.

    Same for the OD.You can get a simple Sata Dvd-RW or go with the Blu-ray.

    As you are going for SSD you can also save some bucks on HDD by switching from Caviar Black to Green.They are cool,quiet and eco-friendly.



    GPU is also a good one but you can bring a Nvidia GTX 570 1.3GB which costs around 240 EUR.
     
  8. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    The spin speed isn't really important with desktops, and only (slightly) affects laptops and game consoles. The difference between the WD Black and Green series as far as games are concerned is that the Green drive may take a second or two longer to load levels. That's about it. The price is lower, the capacity greater, the drive quieter, the power draw lower, the heat lower, and green is the new black.

    On the other hand, if it's the boot drive, the Green may take up to half a minute longer to boot than the Black drive. I'm exaggerating (in lieu of having any sources to draw from), but Windows stresses the random read specs of the drive it's installed on when it boots up and that's the only time when drive performance makes a real difference. Games are usually installed in large clumps, so random read speed is largely unimportant.

    Re: GTX 570, the best one to get is a Gainward GeForce GTX 570 Phantom (best price supplied by Scan.co.uk, like most graphics cards).

    My comment on the Keyboard: I like my Logitech G15. My comment on the mouse: I like my Microsoft Sidewinder X8 (which I got cheap off eBay).
     
  9. Fishaman P

    Member Fishaman P Speedrunner

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    Great build.

    I just have one irk: Why a VGA monitor?

    It can only supply up to 1920x1080@60Hz, and even then the quality is outclassed by DVI, HDMI, or DisplayPort.
     
  10. trumpet-205

    Member trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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    Why are you looking for Radeon 6590/6790? Radeon 6x90 are stepped down version of their parent and consume higher power than 6x70 version.

    May I suggest Radeon 6870 or 6950? I find AMD to have better performance per dollar spent. Keep in mind if you want CUDA and/or PhysX then you'll have to go with Nvidia.

    I recommend keep SSD and go with Caviar Blue/Green. I never used Caviar Black before but I imagine its speed increase is negligible compared to Blue/Green. RPM and SATA III means virtually nothing for HDD. Blue is pretty fast for me in terms of OS boot (less than 20 seconds).
     
  11. Chhotu uttam

    Member Chhotu uttam DOH HO HO HO

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    As I earlier said that Nvidia GTX 570 is a good deal(the model that Originality recommended),but if you are an AMD fanboy,go with 6950/6970.

    @trumpet-205 - WD Caviar Blue series comes only for 500gb and 320gb models.


    As Originality said WD Caviar black is for high performance while WD Caviar Green is quiet,cool and eco-friendly.
    Compared to their prices WD Caviar Black costs around $119 while WD Caviar green is for 89$(Both are 1TB Version)
     
  12. trumpet-205

    Member trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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    Maybe it varies with region, but here in US, there is definitely a 1TB model for Caviar Blue,

    http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=110

    Nothing wrong with AMD or Nvidia. I just feel like AMD will give you better performance per buck.
     
  13. KinGamer7
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    Member KinGamer7 GBAtemp Regular

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    Sorry, I made a mistake with the numbers (9 was 3rd digit as opposed to 2nd). I've edited my post to show that now.

    Thanks for clarifying everything everyone, I'll post an updated table shortly with some minor changes.
     
  14. KinGamer7
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    Member KinGamer7 GBAtemp Regular

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    Here's my new PC!

    [​IMG]

    Pricier, yes, but worth it. The motherboard that Originality mentioned earlier is out of stock, unfortunately, but the rest is all there. I've changed my monitor to a WLED display with HDMI; is the difference between LCD and LED monitors significant? I understand that they're the same except for the backlights, but I want to know what you all think. I'm still stunned that a 2TB drive is £60, though! Very nice indeed. [​IMG]
     
  15. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    LED monitors can turn off individual LEDs to create "true black" instead of just grey black. That's about it.

    HDD prices are getting cheaper and cheaper as capacities grow. I think that it'll only be a few more years until everybody is using SSDs though.

    FYI, the best motherboard for gaming is the ASUS Sabertooth P67, although that's around £160ish depending on where you look. However, it doesn't overclock as well as the MSI GD53... probably because the thermal armour technology it boasts actually works against it when overclocking.
     
  16. Chhotu uttam

    Member Chhotu uttam DOH HO HO HO

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    http://store.westerndigital.com/store/wdus.../catid.13094900
    I couldn't find it [​IMG]

    Regarding HDD 1TB versions perform slightly better than the 2TB versions,but as you are using SSD it won't matter.

    LEDs are good compared to LCDs as they require less energy.
    Also they cost more [​IMG]
     
  17. trumpet-205

    Member trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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  18. Chhotu uttam

    Member Chhotu uttam DOH HO HO HO

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  19. trumpet-205

    Member trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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    Nope. These are current model. If you go to WD webiste (not its store),

    http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=110

    and clicked on Specifications, you'll see that they offer 640GB/750GB/1TB models.

    My guess is that these models are OEM, not retail packaged. When I ordered my HDD it just came with the drive itself in a sealed static bag. Therefore it is not targeted for regular consumer.
     

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