Using NAND-AID to repair a broken eMMC (fix 160-0103 system memory error)

Warning


This tutorial is only for advanced users and has a serious risk of bricking the console. Make sure you read it completely before executing any step and that you understand every step and its implications.

It is recommended to install ISFShax, before soldering in a NAND-AID. In case something goes wrong, this gives more options to troubleshoot the problem.

What is this for?


1690709917882.png

If you are encountering error code 160-0103 "There is a Problem with the system memory" or your Wii U is freezing at bootup it is likely that the eMMC Chip is failing. Make sure to read and understand the Ultimate Wii U Troubleshooting Guide before continuing!

This tutorial goes into installing a NAND-AID (or MLC2SD). This can become useful if the MLC (eMMC) chip is hardware damaged.

It also shows an outdated way to maybe fix the corruption. Make sure to read bla, too, for the recommendet way these days.

Please note: There are other possible causes for the 160-0103 error (like a CBHC brick).
Also we found other ways to fix this problem. In short the other options are:

NOTE: In case you can't boot the recovery menu anymore, there is the option of dumping the eMMC using a cardreader connected to the big pads on the NAND-AID. Also you could use defuse.

Prerequisites


Use this fork of the recovery menu.
Use this fork of wupclient.

1692774079735.png


Before beginning use the recovery menu to dump the syslogs, then search all the .log files for MEDIA ERROR and DATA CORRUPTION.

Only errors concerning the dev:mlc01 are relevant. Here the example for such an error:
Code:
10:48:16:325: FSA: ### MEDIA ERROR ###, dev:mlc01, err:-2228230, cmd:11, path:(null)
Errors concerning the optical disc drive (dev:odd01) can be ignored. Here is such an example, that can be ignored:
Code:
10:48:16:325: FSA: ### MEDIA ERROR ###, dev:odd01, err:-2228230, cmd:11, path:(null)

A media error on mlc01 means the eMMC itself noticed it can no longer retrieve the data error free and indicates a failure of the eMMC.

In case you find a MEDIA ERROR show us the log file, please, so we can add it to https://hackmd.io/d12Fq9g-QlCjN2HJp7Yvew. It's fine to DM the log to @SDIO, @Lazr1026 or me in case you're concerned about the serial number.

In case you find DATA CORRUPTION only this might or might not be a damaged eMMC. It's recommended to show us the logs, too, so we can analyze them more deep. DATA CORRUPTION means the file system of the Wii U detected that a file is corrupted. That could be caused by either a bad eMMC chip or if a write got interrupted (e. g. power loss during save)

Required Knowledge


WARNING: Before you begin, doing anything to mlc/emmc, you need to understand a few core concepts. Make sure to read carfully and be aware of the implications, or you can seriously mess things up, loosing all data. If that happens you need defuse as descibed here.

The Wii U has not just one internal storage, but it has 3:
  • SLCCMPT: Holds all the vWii stuff, the system, the saves, the WiiWare tiles, we don't care for it in this tutorial.
  • MLC: Is where all your userdata goes, like games, saves, your accounts and it also hold the system applications. It's also called eMMC and what this tutorial is about.
  • SLC: Holds the second stage bootloader (boot1), the core Operating Systems (IOSU and CafeOS), the tickets for the installed titles (eShop and system apps), and some config files. Besides that it holds a file "scfm.img".
    This file is used as a block level write cache for the MLC. This means part of the MLC state resides in this file. They need always to be treated as one, if you restore one, you need also to restore the other. If they don't match, because you restored an older version of the mlc for example, the filesystem on top of them will become inconsistent and there will be no way of fixing that. You would either have to restore an older backup of both the SLC and the MLC or you would need to format the MLC. Both are things we try to avoid here.
You always have to carry the current state of the MLC forward.

What you can do: Read the dying eMMC to an Image, then clone it to a SD card and then use the SD card in place of the eMMC, without turning the console on in between.
You could then also read back the state of the current state of the SD card and flash it back to the eMMC and then run off the eMMC again. But only if you don't turn on the Wii U between the read and the swap.

What you can not do: Read the eMMC to an image, then use the console and then replace the eMMC by an SD card with that older image. Because then the SD won't have the current state.
You also can't flash an Image to the SD, use it for a while and then flash the image back a second time.

Where to get a NAND-AID from?


It's always a good idea to ask if someone near you has one. They might be willing to sell it for cheap.
Else here are some available for 3 € : https://gbatemp.net/threads/637225/

If that doesn't work for you you can also go to some PCB manufacturer like https://jlcpcb.com and let them do the printing. This is around $30 for 5 PCBs, so you could resell 4 to other users. The gerber file is available here and the important options are a thickness of 0.6 mm and castellated holes.

Dumping old MLC


Now that you confirmed it's really a hardware damaged MLC it's time to replace and fix it:
  1. Use the recovery menu to dump OTP + SEEPROM.

  2. Dump MLC + SLC from within the recovery menu. Turn your Wii U off by pulling the power cable and don't turn it back on until you replaced the eMMC with the SD card.
    1690709969015.png

    Note: Errors while dumping SLC are harmless and I would be surprised if you get no errors on MLC as it's hardware damages after all.

  3. Merge the dump on the PC, for Windows use copy /b mlc.bin.part01 + mlc.bin.part02 + (...) + mlc.bin.part15 mlc.bin. For linux or mac os x use cat mlc.bin.part* > mlc.bin
  4. Write the MLC dump onto a SD card with the same size of your MLC. So for a 8 GB unit use a 8 GB card and for a 32 GB console use a 32GB card (64GB won't work). 8 GB units can also use 16GB cards, but only 8GB will be usable.
    We currently recommend SanDisk Max Endurance cards for this but other cards have been used, too. Choice is yours.
    On Windows you can use Win32DiskImager or Etcher to write the mlc.bin to the SD card.
    On Linux you can use: dd if=mlc.bin of=/dev/XXX bs=1M status=progress Replace XXX with the name of the block device if the sdcard. You can use lsblk to figure out the name. Also make sure the sd card isn't mounted. Optionally to improve the performance, you can try to run blkdiscard -f first (before the dd) on the SD and then add the conv=sparse option to the dd command.

Soldering NAND-AID


  1. Cut the CLK line (R26) - using a scalpel or an x-acto knife - to disable the eMMC.
    1690709997093.png

  2. Install the NAND-AID and insert the SD. For soldering the NAND-AID it's recommend to first solder the big GND VIA. Since v3.0 you'll see a uncovered VIA on the Wii Us motherboard through this GND hole. This VIA is GND, too, so it doesn't matter if you short with it. Also since v3.0 there's a GND arm right nex to the hole in case you want to solder an alternative GND connection instead.

    The board will suck lots of the heat away, so you need some patience and really need to make sure the solder properly flows. Check that the connections really holds, before you move on to the rest. To make soldering easier, you should first tin the GND pad on the board, so it has fresh solder and preheating the board also helps.

    After GND solder the data connections to the pads/resistors on the board.

    Add the wire for 3V3. Then add the SD slot and after that the capacitor. Also short the DSB pads, which shorts the eMMC CLK to GND. If you ever want to access the eMMC again, you need to open the DSB jumper again.
    1690710029169.png
    1690360176330.png


    NOTE: On some old board revisions there's a capacitor in the way. It's save to just remove it.
    1690710054698.png

    1690710070025.png

    1690710084431.png


    NOTE²: In case you're kind of a patchwork person you can also use a microSD to SD adapter and a capacitor instead of the NAND-AID. How to do this is out of scope of this tutorial through, so you are a bit on your own. See this post for more details: https://gbatemp.net/threads/using-n...0103-system-memory-error.636361/post-10213230
    IMG_20230401_174716.jpg

    1690359335313.png

    TODO: Show adapter installed into a Wii U.

Repairing the corruption


  1. Boot to the recovery menu again, then start the network and wupserver.
    1690710121340.png

    TODO: Add how to add network config to the SD card

  2. Run MLC Checker from recovery and inspect your mlcchecker.txt log.
    • For corrupted files inside of /vol/storage_mlc01/usr/title/ use wupservers delete_title() option, so for example delete_title("/vol/storage_mlc01/usr/title/00050000/1010ED00").
    • For corrupted files inside of /vol/storage_mlc01/sys/title/ use the Install WUP option to reinstall the corresponding system title. It's recommended to do this as a last step. Also some titles might not interrupt the boot, so you could even reinstall them with NUSspli as a very last step.
    • For corrupted folders: These can't be deleted but we have to move them. Even if moved, these still crash a factory reset (so don't do one) The only way to get rid of them is a reformat (see https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/ ) TODO: Add how to move them while keeping quotas in mind. In case these folders where in /vol/storage_mlc01/sys/ the corresponding title needs to get reinstalled afterwards.
    • For corrupted files at other subfolders in /vol/storage_mlc01/usr/ it should be save to delete the files (with wupclients w.rm()], so for example w.rm("/vol/storage_mlc01/usr/save/00050000/1010ed00/user/80000002/userdata.dat"). This might damage savefiles and stuff through, so always make sure that you know what you're deleting and how to fix the result then (for example by deleting the games save from data management). In case you are unsure ask before doing something stupid!
    • For other corrupted files in /vol/storage_mlc01/sys/ ask us what to do!
    Lastly run flush_mlc() in wupclient.

  3. Run the MLC Checker again to see if you missed anything.
Your Wii U should now work normally again.

Bonus: Work around factory reset crash loop


There are some rare cases where users tried a factory reset while having corrupted folders. This results in a crash loop.

To break out of this loop you first have to install NAND-AID and fix the corruptions as told above. After that use wupclients delete_title() function to remove all titles from /vol/storage_mlc01/usr/title/. Lastly select Set Initial Launch from the recovery menu and then select 0 - Initial Setup.

See also


https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-i-fixed-160-0103-system-memory-error.626448/
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058305084/my-wii-u-it-met-with-a-terrible-fate
https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/

Thanks


@SDIO For figuring anything out, doing all of the hard puzzling and coding night and day to make this possible
@GaryOderNichts For the recovery menu
@Nandster For the pictures as well as for documenting the whole process over at boards.ie
@Voultar For the NAND-AID PCB design
@skawo For providing an earlier Tutorial, we took some passages from
 
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muslimsteel

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So running through the steps, I am in the Rebuilding the MLC section. If I have my SD Card with the partitions that was created using the Format redNAND option, I have added the titles and other files to the FAT32 partition, but the next step says:
Select Patch (sd) and Boot ios redNAND in minute to start the setup of your fresh MLC.

Does this mean that it is going to overwrite what I have on the SD card and start it as a fresh MLC? In my case I would rather use the data that is on the SD card as my MLC. Thanks.
 

SDIO

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It would reinstall everything on the MLC partition, but it would not format it, so your stuff and your would still be there after you go through the initial setup.
You can boot without the setup to the cloned MLC on the SD.

But I would suggest you eventually reinstall the MLC on the redNAND with the config given in the redNAND guide, by first formatting it to NTFS and then running the setup, to get rid of the SCFM, which would make your SD card wear out faster and the whole system be slower.
 

W3Y0U2

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I tried the SD card method, and now my console isn't outputting video (solid blue light, disc drive makes noises still)... Is there an additional step (not covered by the guide) that I missed?

Japanese console, Hynix chip, followed this guide, and used the linked SD card method.

I'm trying to isolate the issue, so any guidance would be appreciated.
 

V10lator

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@W3Y0U2 So if I understand you correctly you soldered the PCB in and now the console isn't booting correctly anymore (solid blue light but black screen) ? If so there could be multiple reasons for this, here the most common (in random order) :
  • Forgot to cut the CLK trace or CLK not cutted completely (did you check with a multimeter?).
  • A short either on the connection between Wii U motherboard and the PCB or between the PCB and the micro SD slot. Use your multimeter to check.
  • One of the solder joints having no connection. Also use your multimeter to check.
  • SD card for the PCB isn't set up correctly, so the Wii U can't read it. How exactly did you prepare the SD card?

I don't know what you mean with this through:
used the linked SD card method.
That's why I'm unsure that I even understand you correctly, like did you even reply to the correct topic?

//EDIT: Also CC @SDIO as he knows better about what the different LED states when black screening mean. Also @W3Y0U2 the guide at the first post here tells this:
While not strictly required, it is still recommended to install ISFShax, before soldering NAND-AID. In case something goes wrong, this then gives more options to troubleshoot the problem.
So did you install ISFShax (doesn't sound like it with a solid blue light, that's why I'm asking) ?
 

W3Y0U2

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@W3Y0U2 So if I understand you correctly you soldered the PCB in and now the console isn't booting correctly anymore (solid blue light but black screen) ? If so there could be multiple reasons for this, here the most common (in random order) :
  • Forgot to cut the CLK trace or CLK not cutted completely (did you check with a multimeter?).
  • A short either on the connection between Wii U motherboard and the PCB or between the PCB and the micro SD slot. Use your multimeter to check.
  • One of the solder joints having no connection. Also use your multimeter to check.
  • SD card for the PCB isn't set up correctly, so the Wii U can't read it. How exactly did you prepare the SD card?

I don't know what you mean with this through:

That's why I'm unsure that I even understand you correctly, like did you even reply to the correct topic?

//EDIT: Also CC @SDIO as he knows better about what the different LED states when black screening mean. Also @W3Y0U2 the guide at the first post here tells this:

So did you install ISFShax (doesn't sound like it with a solid blue light, that's why I'm asking) ?
I resoldered everything today, afterwards it started working... I guess I just made some bad joints (eyesight isn't so great).

the 'SD card method' refers to directly soldering the MicroSD-SD adapter... I initially wrote a longer post, but got hit by the anti-spam for whatever reason.

I've been able to install ISFShax and rebuild MLC since then.

I'm sorry for wasting your time with this. Thank you for your contribution to this repair; it's evident the process would have been far simpler had I actually used your QSB.
 

V10lator

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this tutorial
To be fair only the hardware part of this tutorial was used. @RamsesUTL wisely choosed to format the new SD card and expand the storage while doing so with ISFShax, then reinstall games from the eShop and extract lost savegames from the MLC backup (sadly not all was recoverable as the original eMMC was corrupted pretty badly already) to restore them with SaveMii WUT Port later on.
 

InvisibleMuppet

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I'm currently using the Rednand option, but i've got a NandAID Pcb coming in. Is there an easy option to switch from using rednand to the nand aid or do i have to start again so to speak?
 

SDIO

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You can't clone your redNAND mlc to the internal once, except if you created it with the exact right size.
So the recommended thing to do would to rebuild the MLC on the NAND-AID.
In theory you could clone the original MLC to the NAND-AID, if you use a 32gb card for the NAND-AID, but by that you would also clone the corruption. Setting up a new MLC is probably less if an Hassel tolhab to clone and to fix the corrupted one.
But if you wanted to clone the sys mlc, the easiest way would be to use the format redNAND option in minute, which clones the eMMC to a partition on the SD card (needs to be at least 64gb), then install the NAND aid with a 32gb card and then use the restore redNAND option in minute to write it back the the NAND-AID
 

InvisibleMuppet

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You can't clone your redNAND mlc to the internal once, except if you created it with the exact right size.
So the recommended thing to do would to rebuild the MLC on the NAND-AID.
In theory you could clone the original MLC to the NAND-AID, if you use a 32gb card for the NAND-AID, but by that you would also clone the corruption. Setting up a new MLC is probably less if an Hassel tolhab to clone and to fix the corrupted one.
But if you wanted to clone the sys mlc, the easiest way would be to use the format redNAND option in minute, which clones the eMMC to a partition on the SD card (needs to be at least 64gb), then install the NAND aid with a 32gb card and then use the restore redNAND option in minute to write it back the the NAND-AID

Thanks. I will probably rebuild the Nand on the NAND-AID then. I ordered the recommended SD card. The 32GB sandisk max endurance.
 

InvisibleMuppet

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You can't clone your redNAND mlc to the internal once, except if you created it with the exact right size.
So the recommended thing to do would to rebuild the MLC on the NAND-AID.
In theory you could clone the original MLC to the NAND-AID, if you use a 32gb card for the NAND-AID, but by that you would also clone the corruption. Setting up a new MLC is probably less if an Hassel tolhab to clone and to fix the corrupted one.
But if you wanted to clone the sys mlc, the easiest way would be to use the format redNAND option in minute, which clones the eMMC to a partition on the SD card (needs to be at least 64gb), then install the NAND aid with a 32gb card and then use the restore redNAND option in minute to write it back the the NAND-AID
Ok i just installed the NAND-AID, can i just put in the unformatted SD and rebuild the MLC?

edit: i got the 64GB like you suggested
 
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InvisibleMuppet

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If you already have ISFShax installed or have defuse you can just follow the MLC rebuild gude
Ok, thank you. I first have to recheck my soldering, cause the SD is not recognized (rednand still works tho)
I ordered a microscope, because i did it wihout.

I check all the connections with a multimeter and they seem good, i'm going to double check the connection tot he CLK and the SD card reader later, i think the SD port is slightly lifted at one point cause of the ground blob sticking up slightly, but it'll be ok :)

update, i've checked all connections, everything seems fine.
I'm getting this error when trying to erase MLC

update: also
All pins but the clock pin seem to pull op to 3.3V
I see a signal on the clockline (on the nand-aid connection) when trying to erase.

Also can anyone tell me resistor value for R27? It seems to be MUCH higher (around 20k) than the rest which are around 32 ohm.
R27 shows kOhms
 

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V10lator

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All pins but the clock pin seem to pull op to 3.3V
Is this with a multimeter or with a oszi? A multimeter is probably not fast enough for the pulses so might show anything between 0 and 3.3 V (depending on the multimeter).

Also can anyone tell me resistor value for R27? It seems to be MUCH higher (around 20k) than the rest which are around 32 ohm.
R27 shows kOhms
Sounds wrong to me. IIRC all resistors there should be around 10 Ohm (32 sounds fine). IIRC even 0 ohm (blob of solder) works. Anyway, a NAND-AID bypasses the resistors anyway and the original eMMC should be disabled (you didn't forgot to cut the clock line, did you?).

I think the SD port is slightly lifted at one point cause of the ground blob sticking up slightly, but it'll be ok :)
What NAND-AID revision do you have (or is it MLC2SD) ? IIRC NAND-AID v3 has a chance to short some of the SD pins with that GND hole, so it's recommended to insulate (anything will do really, like some tape). Are you able to measure a short to GND from one of the test points on the NAND-AID to GND while an SD card is inserted? Note that you'll measure through capacitors and stuff on the SD card itself, so expect things to be funny... ;) Anyway, if you see a short there (which most likely isn't there with no SD card inserted - has something to do with the slot mechanics) you should try to insulate between the GND hole and the slot.

//EDIT: Is R27 maybe not correctly connected to the Wii U mainboards pad anymore? @SDIO might know some testpoint on the Wii U mainboard to measure for a high resistance there (as second testpad just use the big CMD pad on the NAND-AID).
 
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InvisibleMuppet

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1000045695.jpg
Is this with a multimeter or with a oszi? A multimeter is probably not fast enough for the pulses so might show anything between 0 and 3.3 V (depending on the multimeter).


Sounds wrong to me. IIRC all resistors there should be around 10 Ohm (32 sounds fine). IIRC even 0 ohm (blob of solder) works. Anyway, a NAND-AID bypasses the resistors anyway and the original eMMC should be disabled (you didn't forgot to cut the clock line, did you?).


What NAND-AID revision do you have (or is it MLC2SD) ? IIRC NAND-AID v3 has a chance to short some of the SD pins with that GND hole, so it's recommended to insulate (anything will do really, like some tape). Are you able to measure a short to GND from one of the test points on the NAND-AID to GND while an SD card is inserted? Note that you'll measure through capacitors and stuff on the SD card itself, so expect things to be funny... ;) Anyway, if you see a short there (which most likely isn't there with no SD card inserted - has something to do with the slot mechanics) you should try to insulate between the GND hole and the slot.

//EDIT: Is R27 maybe not correctly connected to the Wii U mainboards pad anymore? @SDIO might know some testpoint on the Wii U mainboard to measure for a high resistance there (as second testpad just use the big CMD pad on the NAND-AID).
Thanks for the reply.
I have measured everything with my scope.
The line in R26 as cut properly.

Seems like is used the v2 gerber when ordering.

Some lines on the sd card slot indeed seem to ground when a sd card is inserted so the grounded sd card theory seems likely.

R27 tomstoned when i was soldering it. And i had to use 2 wires for the clk and D3 cause they didnt want to connect.

Ill remove the sd card slot tomorrow and put some kapton tape underneath.
 

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There is the card detect pin, which the slots grounds, when the card is inserted. That's how it is supposed to be. But check the other signals and make sure there is no short between them.

Also the 3V connection looks a little sketchy on the picture. From the error in your other post, the error either is with the power or with CLK or CMD. The DAT lines aren't used at the stage where it is failing
 
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V10lator

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Seems like is used the v2 gerber when ordering.
Yea, your picture also looks like v2, so the original design by Vaultar. AFAIK that shouldn't have the GND short issue and as SDIO said the card detection pin, which is the outer right on the NAND-AID to SD slot connection and a pad connected to nothing on the NAND-AID, should be grounded when a card is inserted (and float otherwise, at least with the slots we used so far).
Sadly i can't really be that much helpful with v2 as PCBWay refused to print it back in the days but it should be pretty similar to v2.1 which IIRC was edited with a simple text editor to be PCBWay compatible.

Check again for shorts to GND and 3V3 as well as for shorts between D2, D1, D0, D3, CM and CK (just use the big pads on the NAND-AID except for CK as that goes to the DSB pad, so should be shorted to GND. For the CK line I normally measure from the small CK pad connected to the Wii u motherboard located above the big D2 pad on the NAND-AID. Be careful to not short that pad to your cable bridge with the measuring probe ;)) as SDIO suggested. Solder flowing underneath the SD slot between two pins can be a real tricky beast, for example.

SDIO is btw highly skilled with that stuff and even invented that eMMC replacement technique. So yea, maybe checking the 3V3 line and resoldering it with some fresh solder (and maybe a drop of flux if at hand) might help, too.

//EDIT: Also are you measuring that too high resistance on R26 when measuring from the NAND-AID to the resistor side facing the original eMMC (left side of the resistor on your picture) ? If so the soldering connection between the NAND-AID and the R26 resistor might be faulty and resoldering it might help. IIRC R26 is CM(D), so would be in line with what SDIO told here:
From the error in your other post, the error either is with the power or with CLK or CMD.
 
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Yea, your picture also looks like v2, so the original design by Vaultar. AFAIK that shouldn't have the GND short issue and as SDIO said the card detection pin, which is the outer right on the NAND-AID to SD slot connection and a pad connected to nothing on the NAND-AID, should be grounded when a card is inserted (and float otherwise, at least with the slots we used so far).
Sadly i can't really be that much helpful with v2 as PCBWay refused to print it back in the days but it should be pretty similar to v2.1 which IIRC was edited with a simple text editor to be PCBWay compatible.

Check again for shorts to GND and 3V3 as well as for shorts between D2, D1, D0, D3, CM and CK (just use the big pads on the NAND-AID except for CK as that goes to the DSB pad, so should be shorted to GND. For the CK line I normally measure from the small CK pad connected to the Wii u motherboard located above the big D2 pad on the NAND-AID. Be careful to not short that pad to your cable bridge with the measuring probe ;)) as SDIO suggested. Solder flowing underneath the SD slot between two pins can be a real tricky beast, for example.

SDIO is btw highly skilled with that stuff and even invented that eMMC replacement technique. So yea, maybe checking the 3V3 line and resoldering it with some fresh solder (and maybe a drop of flux if at hand) might help, too.

//EDIT: Also are you measuring that too high resistance on R26 when measuring from the NAND-AID to the resistor side facing the original eMMC (left side of the resistor on your picture) ? If so the soldering connection between the NAND-AID and the R26 resistor might be faulty and resoldering it might help. IIRC R26 is CM(D), so would be in line with what SDIO told here:

I removed the weird measuring resistor and just put in some 0.1 mm copper wire.

So this is whats currently going on.

Apart from CK being pulled to ground nothing is shorted together or to the GND or 3.3V.
I can measure D0 to D3 from the resistor (NAND side) all the way to the SD card port.
CM is also a good connection now.

When i Power the Wii i notice all datalines and the CM line show about 3.3V( so they are pulled high) (measured with scope)

The Clock line is low

When i choose erase MLC from the menu, i still get the same errors as shown in the screenshot.
I measured the CLK with a small scope and i see a clock signal.
when i measure the the CM pad i see it going up and down a few times.

The only thing i can't say for 100% sure is that the clock side of the NAND Is pulled to ground properly. Is there another testpoint for that?
 

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The only thing i can't say for 100% sure is that the clock side of the NAND Is pulled to ground properly.
IIRC @SDIO told one time pulling it to GND shouldn't even be that important.

I measured the CLK with a small scope and i see a clock signal.
when i measure the the CM pad i see it going up and down a few times.
Sounds all good to me but let's wait for SDIO. In the meantime: Any activity on D0 (IIRC that one should show activity even in the lowest compatibility mode but SDIO is the expert here, too, so take that with a grain of salt).
 

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