no im trying to find theYou’re trying to use a Mariko motherboard on an Aula Switch?
no im trying to find theYou’re trying to use a Mariko motherboard on an Aula Switch?
Do you know if there are tutorials for the GD-Link variant?Pretty sure he means the GD-Link programmer or an alternative
I'm 99.9% sure, that these 4 points are alternative CMD points:hey where can i find the cmd point in the older switch motherboard.
I don't know which one it is I'm trying to use this board as a donor for my OLED
thanks so that mean that this would be the
my multimeter isn't working idk what's up with it@JaRocker
I don’t have a Mariko PCB to help you, but I would advise you to use a multimeter to find the resistor yourself.
It will be faster than waiting for someone do it for you. And doing it by yourself, you’ll have confidence that you got the right resistor.
Thanks lufeig - I'll ask the modder to just see how things stand with the stock 0.2.0, in terms of which SD cards it accepts, before thinking about flashing sthetix's r021 firmware.1 consider that there are some OLED modchips w/ USB that are not compatible with this method
2 I can’t comment on sd card compatibility, I have a 512GB Lexar and never had any problem, never got a single NOSD screen
3 glitching times with r021 are consistently better on my Switch. same behavior is observed on the Switch of another user here, in fact I flashed r021 following his report about it
4 I don’t feel comfortable to recommend flashing r021 because there are still risks involved in the process. Glitching on stock fw works, but on r021 it is optimized. I did it because I know I wouldn’t sleep well if I didn’t. LOL. But considering the risks, I would say it’s up to you to decide if it’s worth it or not.![]()
Still searching?Do you know if there are tutorials for the GD-Link variant?
Stethix is currently upgrading his video guide with all info.Still searching?
You can flash the bootloader and firmware. They are separate files! Did you try flashing bootloader.bin or just firmware.binI did, but it didn‘t. The flash went well without issues. But I don’t know if it also flashes the bootloader…
And yes, it‘s a real sx lite
Flash.bat works just fine. You should have seen dashes across the screen while it did it’s thing. GD-link and ST-links is done differently and will need the apppropriate software, susessful writes are confirmed through the software. Same with RPI. If you got a successful write through one way and it’s still bricked I don’t believe the other ways will magically make it work. But I could be wrongUsed the flash.bat and there it flashes the bootloader first.
All strange…
Will the gd link ob flasher flash the chip different? Or a rpi?
Can a chip be broken directly?
yours is not tx's modchip, it's hwfly liteHi! Does anybody know if a broken xs lite chip is rescue able?
A HWFly works with the same soldered flex cables, the sx lite doesn't. The SX Lite boots straight into original FW
Can I flash it with the instructions from page 1 too? Or is there something for sx lite directly available?
Btw. I can't see any damages on the chip mainboard.
Thanks
URBANsUNITED
what's the led status of your sxlite? does it stay white? if yes, then clk line isn't connected right, that being hooked from the board of your lite will prevent ofw booting hence if it goes straight, then it's not connected.I did, but it didn‘t. The flash went well without issues. But I don’t know if it also flashes the bootloader…
And yes, it‘s a real sx lite
Maybe they were throwing out some clones among the real ones as a test before full release.I bought it way before HWfly poped out. Bought 2020-11-30 and the HWfly annoucement was in 05/06-2021.
But you are right, it looks like an HWFly modchip. Strange...
Please check the video.what's the led status of your sxlite? does it stay white? if yes, then clk line isn't connected right, that being hooked from the board of your lite will prevent ofw booting hence if it goes straight, then it's not connected.