Gotcha, I missed the part "Unfortunately, the software mod in which you patch the English System .eng files to .gb or bg5 versions and copy them into the Chinese System software, work but not perfectly."
The M3 Real Team needs to make one firmware for all. That would be sweet.
The M3 Real Team needs to make one firmware for all. That would be sweet.
I still need an answer to my question, is the actel enclosed in a conformal bump or not?I've just gotten my M3 Real back from dealextreme, but i has a different PCB then the one posted as the first post.
Unfortunately the english hardwaremod doesnt work in this case. Since its missing 2 of the resistors. Also the softwaremod doesn't work. I put up the asian version, which works. When i use the tool to convert it to english, it shows the M3 logo, then it stalls on a black screen, and thats it. Nothing else, nothing more.
Anyone who encountered this already, and found a solution? I would love to have it in english
Any rate, for the steady handed with some tiny strands around, here are alternate points (though I'd look on the other side for traces and under the MS slot for relocation points of the original jumpers first). If they are shipping as chinese and provided they haven't changed the layout of the pins any, you'd have to disconnect the 8th before connecting 7 to get english. Use your discretion when trying, connecting them both will probably result in either non-working or a japan locked card.
Thank my PSP and the chotto shot for this image
Just a minor additional note (and you people know who you are, if it wasn't for you guys and customers words getting to m3 team the layout wouldn't have been changed)... this proves it doesn't pay to try and make a few extra bucks via doing hardware mods yourself and basically gypping the customer that $5 you skimped for an already once disassembled product...
Unfortunately, the back side show above is an older version of the board. It looks like they are making a different PCB for each version now. The large contact with a blue line on it is actually connected to pin 8 by a trace. Pin 7 now has a node so close to it unless you've got a stand tweezers and hellishly fast at soldering to pin 7 I doubt you could change it. There doesn't seem to be any traces on the reverse side. There also doesn't seem to be any replacements for the missing resistors. Pin 1 also has a node really close to it now too.
You could scratch out the connection to pin 8 and try and jump a thin wire to it.
I did get the software mod working though.
You could scratch out the connection to pin 8 and try and jump a thin wire to it.
I did get the software mod working though.
I'd go for lifting chip legs before I'd try cut traces that may well be connected to vias under the chip (what I think you are calling nodes.) Lift them both and try and coax the opposite one to connect only to where the one you lifted goes.
Basically, if I can modify a R4 after they removed the extra pads and encased the main chip die in epoxy instead of using a prefab chip encasement - I'd say my skill would be up to doing such a mod. But, I'm told that there are few who'd be able and willing to try and match my patience and skill at such stuff though
Also, keep in mind they may well have changed the ACTEL programming to not include region selection (meaning the mod could well be useless even if you did get it done.)
Basically, if I can modify a R4 after they removed the extra pads and encased the main chip die in epoxy instead of using a prefab chip encasement - I'd say my skill would be up to doing such a mod. But, I'm told that there are few who'd be able and willing to try and match my patience and skill at such stuff though
Also, keep in mind they may well have changed the ACTEL programming to not include region selection (meaning the mod could well be useless even if you did get it done.)
Well, I haven't had a problem using the software conversion. I could take a picture to show you what I mean too later today. Yeah you could remove/lift the whole leg altogether and slide the other over a bit. not sure im gonna risk it for now thought. I wait till the soft mod no longer works.
Also, from what I heard is that the m3 is suppose to be slow loading. My revision seems pretty fast except, when I use the touch screen to scroll instead of the d=pad. Most games load in 2 seconds.
Also, from what I heard is that the m3 is suppose to be slow loading. My revision seems pretty fast except, when I use the touch screen to scroll instead of the d=pad. Most games load in 2 seconds.
I'm Chinese, and I bought an Europe version M3DS Real.
I want to change the interface to Chinese, but useed iq_132's tool, M3DS Real black.
1.copy all the files of E15(2.8 version) to microSD
2.use the iq_132's tool changed the *.gb to *.eng
3.copy the changed *.eng to microSD and overwrite.
4.the sub screen show the M3DS logo, but the main screen black.
I want to change the interface to Chinese, but useed iq_132's tool, M3DS Real black.
1.copy all the files of E15(2.8 version) to microSD
2.use the iq_132's tool changed the *.gb to *.eng
3.copy the changed *.eng to microSD and overwrite.
4.the sub screen show the M3DS logo, but the main screen black.
Thanks for the invaluable advice. I managed to modify my Chinese M3DS Real to use English utilising your soldering method. The modified chip flashed up without any problems.
Here are a few tips that may help others go about this task. (Please excuse me if it what I am suggesting is blatantly obvious but, these tips are intended for non soldering or techno savvy people lilke myself!)
1. When prising off the six retaining clips on the plastic shell be very gentle; They snap off easily.
2. The PCB is secured to the shell by a small philips screw. To access the screw, peel back the "M3" sticker on the top left hand side of the plastic shell.4. Carefully pull the PCB from the shell.
3. Using a 17-20W soldering iron with a fine tip. If necessary, file or grind the tip to give an almost needle-like tip. Use a soldering station with a magnifying glass.
4. Remove R9 by applying the soldering iron tip to each end of the 0Ohm resistor. Assist the iron by using a precision screw driver to gently lever the resistor off through the midsection.
5. 'Drag' a fine trail of solder over the two points where R8 should go. This is much easier than trying to resolder the R9 resistor that you removed into the R8 position. Not withstanding, this is still a finnicky task. If unsucessful, allow your first attempt to cool before trying for a second time so as to avoid frying your chip.
6. Have a REALLY good look at your soldering through a magnifying glass to ensure that you haven't dragged solder accross the other resistors thereby creating a short circuit.
Good luck. Thanks again for the advice that helped me.
Here are a few tips that may help others go about this task. (Please excuse me if it what I am suggesting is blatantly obvious but, these tips are intended for non soldering or techno savvy people lilke myself!)
1. When prising off the six retaining clips on the plastic shell be very gentle; They snap off easily.
2. The PCB is secured to the shell by a small philips screw. To access the screw, peel back the "M3" sticker on the top left hand side of the plastic shell.4. Carefully pull the PCB from the shell.
3. Using a 17-20W soldering iron with a fine tip. If necessary, file or grind the tip to give an almost needle-like tip. Use a soldering station with a magnifying glass.
4. Remove R9 by applying the soldering iron tip to each end of the 0Ohm resistor. Assist the iron by using a precision screw driver to gently lever the resistor off through the midsection.
5. 'Drag' a fine trail of solder over the two points where R8 should go. This is much easier than trying to resolder the R9 resistor that you removed into the R8 position. Not withstanding, this is still a finnicky task. If unsucessful, allow your first attempt to cool before trying for a second time so as to avoid frying your chip.
6. Have a REALLY good look at your soldering through a magnifying glass to ensure that you haven't dragged solder accross the other resistors thereby creating a short circuit.
Good luck. Thanks again for the advice that helped me.
yeyezai:
I might be mistaken but I thought when you first turn on the M3 real, it asks you what language you want. Can't you just install the english and choose Chinese? I haven't tried this.
I might be mistaken but I thought when you first turn on the M3 real, it asks you what language you want. Can't you just install the english and choose Chinese? I haven't tried this.
Yes.
At the first time of turn on the M3, I saw the language selection.
Before modified those files with iq_132's tool, M3 showed me the 9 languages, I chose the English.
After modified and the first time turn on M3, there were 4 languages for choosing. I installed the Chinese GB (the first one), after Loading, the interface was fine just one minute, then black screen.
I'm just reporting that another of my Chinese-to-English mods retaining the original resistor just stopped working recently (stuck in Japanese mode; originally Chinese). Just like before, the solder job looked very good. That's two now, so I wouldn't trust it without a wire (I've modded five and only kept the resistor in about three of them).
I have a stange problem to report with the M3 DS real. Mine hangs on a black screen after displaying the logo in some DSes, but works fine in others. Whats more, it seems to go through long cycles of not working in those specific DSes and then just "start working" for a little while. It's so confusing, that the only way to understand is to just document the entire experience:
My first M3 DS real stopped working in my nephew's "phat" DS. It still worked on mine, and I had just fixed a ribbon cable and replacement housing on his DS, so I assumed that it was his DS at fault (I discovered at the same time that the L button no longer worked XD). I tried it many times in the following weeks and it always worked in mine and not in his... until last weekend. It just suddenly worked and worked for days. When it first happened, his DS locked on me while playing Starfox Command and then the M3r wouldn't boot, so I always suspected that it was an intermittant problem with the DS.
After it started working, I was at a friends house when my battery went dead in one of my DS lites (which it had ALWAYS worked in). I then tried it in my friend's Mario Kart DS phat and it behaved the same way as my nephew's DS phat (worked once, locked-up in-game, stopped booting), despite working 100% of the time in both of my DS lites (hundreds of play sessions in those weeks). Suspicious, I tried it in my nephew's DS phat again and, sure enough, it was no longer working in either DS phat though it continued working just fine in my two DS lites. After fiddling with it in the slot of my friend's DS phat, I could get it to boot some times and lock up, but no amount of fiddling had worked weeks earlier on my nephew's DS phat. Even so, eventually I couldn't get it to boot at all.
Even so, I was confident that I had isolated the problem to a DS phat "fit" problem... until I took it to work the following weekend and left it with a coworker overnight (my coworker's M3 DS real was the one with the malfunctioning region mod and I took it home to fix it). I had also left my white DS lite on charge with his charger because I couldn't find my charger. When I returned in the morning to relieve him (damned 12hr shifts!), he jokingly told me that my M3r "was racist" because it would only work in my white DS lite (he has a black one), which I had left overnight. I pulled my black DS lite out of my pocket and confirmed that it works with both of my DS lites but seemingly never works with his, just like the DS phats that it seemingly didn't work with for weeks. Swapping the mSD card to the second, now-repaired, M3r showed that the system files were fine and that the original card was at fault because this one worked in all DSes.
So there we have it. Problematic in three DSes (two phats and one lite), but it just happens to work fine in my two DS lites. WTF? I can't help but think that it works in mine ONLY for some strange reason.
I have a stange problem to report with the M3 DS real. Mine hangs on a black screen after displaying the logo in some DSes, but works fine in others. Whats more, it seems to go through long cycles of not working in those specific DSes and then just "start working" for a little while. It's so confusing, that the only way to understand is to just document the entire experience:
My first M3 DS real stopped working in my nephew's "phat" DS. It still worked on mine, and I had just fixed a ribbon cable and replacement housing on his DS, so I assumed that it was his DS at fault (I discovered at the same time that the L button no longer worked XD). I tried it many times in the following weeks and it always worked in mine and not in his... until last weekend. It just suddenly worked and worked for days. When it first happened, his DS locked on me while playing Starfox Command and then the M3r wouldn't boot, so I always suspected that it was an intermittant problem with the DS.
After it started working, I was at a friends house when my battery went dead in one of my DS lites (which it had ALWAYS worked in). I then tried it in my friend's Mario Kart DS phat and it behaved the same way as my nephew's DS phat (worked once, locked-up in-game, stopped booting), despite working 100% of the time in both of my DS lites (hundreds of play sessions in those weeks). Suspicious, I tried it in my nephew's DS phat again and, sure enough, it was no longer working in either DS phat though it continued working just fine in my two DS lites. After fiddling with it in the slot of my friend's DS phat, I could get it to boot some times and lock up, but no amount of fiddling had worked weeks earlier on my nephew's DS phat. Even so, eventually I couldn't get it to boot at all.
Even so, I was confident that I had isolated the problem to a DS phat "fit" problem... until I took it to work the following weekend and left it with a coworker overnight (my coworker's M3 DS real was the one with the malfunctioning region mod and I took it home to fix it). I had also left my white DS lite on charge with his charger because I couldn't find my charger. When I returned in the morning to relieve him (damned 12hr shifts!), he jokingly told me that my M3r "was racist" because it would only work in my white DS lite (he has a black one), which I had left overnight. I pulled my black DS lite out of my pocket and confirmed that it works with both of my DS lites but seemingly never works with his, just like the DS phats that it seemingly didn't work with for weeks. Swapping the mSD card to the second, now-repaired, M3r showed that the system files were fine and that the original card was at fault because this one worked in all DSes.
So there we have it. Problematic in three DSes (two phats and one lite), but it just happens to work fine in my two DS lites. WTF? I can't help but think that it works in mine ONLY for some strange reason.
Hey MAhe, Heres an update on your Anonymous PIC. Now INC Japanese version. You'll see that the 0-Ohm resister placement is of course 1XX.
Sorry for the CHESSY Edit of the PIC, I was rushed....
Hope this helps others (who might want japanese) MAYBE?!!!!!!!!!!!!HA
ION
End OF Line
Sorry for the CHESSY Edit of the PIC, I was rushed....
Hope this helps others (who might want japanese) MAYBE?!!!!!!!!!!!!HA
ION
End OF Line
I tried to change a Jap (1XX) to an Eng (11X) and it F-ing FRIED my DS....or its wiped the original Bios or it screwed up the board, could be any of those I'm not sure until I rip the F-ker apart and see what has happened.............
I tested firstly by using an obsolete Pin from an IC, shorted R8 so that it was now (11X) and nothing happened when it was in the DS and switched on with PSU plugged in. OK...
so I cut power and removed cart the SD and tried again with just the M3. After i already had tested that the DS was OK by powering it by itself once more...it was. But that second time meant my DS's DOOM........S..O...B!!!!!!!!!
So now the bugger has no power.under batt, blank screens,but battery is OK, no lights, no power under battery only use. Only if I plug in the PSU i get a short flash of PSU Orange and then ZIP..If I switch it on with the on/off i get a flash of Green power indicator light, then flashes to Orange and then ZIP. I can switch on/off,on/off as many times as I want and just a quick flash of Green light and DEAD.
Dirty Bastard ....anyway... I un-shorted R8 and the Little Shit M3 is working fine again in Japanese (can ya beleive it)...lucky I got more than 1 DS...for now!!!
Soo..any ideas from my description as to what the HELL happened...or do I need to upload a quickie movie of the disaster...
ANYONE???!!!!
Maybe I should have used a 0-ohm resistor????????????????????If I can get em
Anyway just shorting them willy-nilly doesnt hold water......or Grace ....in my book!!
Anybody with a Fool proof way ,if there is 1....back to the drawing board...*sigh* plus more swear words...
And u thought Carts cant destroy your DS .....HA!!!!
PS My ROHS board is the usual m3-ndsReal-cp2 but inc a date upon the board 2007/07/18
other than that it looks identical, both sides to the pics listed here, and my Actel chip is BLOB free
Actually looking close at the alignment of the R6-R9 points, they definately runthru to the opisite side of the board right under the Actel chip
ION
I tested firstly by using an obsolete Pin from an IC, shorted R8 so that it was now (11X) and nothing happened when it was in the DS and switched on with PSU plugged in. OK...
so I cut power and removed cart the SD and tried again with just the M3. After i already had tested that the DS was OK by powering it by itself once more...it was. But that second time meant my DS's DOOM........S..O...B!!!!!!!!!
So now the bugger has no power.under batt, blank screens,but battery is OK, no lights, no power under battery only use. Only if I plug in the PSU i get a short flash of PSU Orange and then ZIP..If I switch it on with the on/off i get a flash of Green power indicator light, then flashes to Orange and then ZIP. I can switch on/off,on/off as many times as I want and just a quick flash of Green light and DEAD.
Dirty Bastard ....anyway... I un-shorted R8 and the Little Shit M3 is working fine again in Japanese (can ya beleive it)...lucky I got more than 1 DS...for now!!!
Soo..any ideas from my description as to what the HELL happened...or do I need to upload a quickie movie of the disaster...
ANYONE???!!!!
Maybe I should have used a 0-ohm resistor????????????????????If I can get em
Anyway just shorting them willy-nilly doesnt hold water......or Grace ....in my book!!
Anybody with a Fool proof way ,if there is 1....back to the drawing board...*sigh* plus more swear words...
And u thought Carts cant destroy your DS .....HA!!!!
PS My ROHS board is the usual m3-ndsReal-cp2 but inc a date upon the board 2007/07/18
other than that it looks identical, both sides to the pics listed here, and my Actel chip is BLOB free
Actually looking close at the alignment of the R6-R9 points, they definately runthru to the opisite side of the board right under the Actel chip
ION
I bought 2 Chinese m3
the firts I did the hardware mod Mine DSL is now back in the store for reparation.
the second I dit the software mod after 4 days (nights)of patching I found the solution maybe its alread here but than it wasn t clar for me
This is what I dit:
1. I downloaded the newest system V3,7c both the Chinees and the European so I ve got 2 system files
2. I downloaden de patch.exe http://neosource.1emu.net/forums/index.php...45.0;attach=932
3. I put the patch.exe in the same dir. as the English system
4. patch and now type in the dosscreen g6dsload.eng then choose Big5 so you get g6dsload.Big5 and then type in the dosscreen g6load.eng and then choose gb so you will get g6dsload.gb
5. copy these 2 new files (g6load.Big5 and g6load.gb) in to the Chineese system file and say yes to all (override old files)
6. copy this new patched Chinees System file on your Micro SD Card.
7. put the Micro SD Card in your M3 Real and slide it in to your DSL en turn it on you wil see that you can only choose the English language.
I hope this is usefull.
the firts I did the hardware mod Mine DSL is now back in the store for reparation.
the second I dit the software mod after 4 days (nights)of patching I found the solution maybe its alread here but than it wasn t clar for me
This is what I dit:
1. I downloaded the newest system V3,7c both the Chinees and the European so I ve got 2 system files
2. I downloaden de patch.exe http://neosource.1emu.net/forums/index.php...45.0;attach=932
3. I put the patch.exe in the same dir. as the English system
4. patch and now type in the dosscreen g6dsload.eng then choose Big5 so you get g6dsload.Big5 and then type in the dosscreen g6load.eng and then choose gb so you will get g6dsload.gb
5. copy these 2 new files (g6load.Big5 and g6load.gb) in to the Chineese system file and say yes to all (override old files)
6. copy this new patched Chinees System file on your Micro SD Card.
7. put the Micro SD Card in your M3 Real and slide it in to your DSL en turn it on you wil see that you can only choose the English language.
I hope this is usefull.
Kamikasekc i followed your steps. I to have bought the Chineese M3 DS Real on accident.
When i load the Chineese firmware on it it shows a couple of icons but no NDS icon.
Then i patched it and i can see the NDS icon. And the games that are in that folder. But when i load the game i see some loadblocks at the bottom of the screen when this bar is full the DS hangs i can do nothing.
Can you or somebody else upload the patched and working firmware?
When i load the Chineese firmware on it it shows a couple of icons but no NDS icon.
Then i patched it and i can see the NDS icon. And the games that are in that folder. But when i load the game i see some loadblocks at the bottom of the screen when this bar is full the DS hangs i can do nothing.
Can you or somebody else upload the patched and working firmware?
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RedColoredStars:
Last thing I told her is how much I love her, and that Im not leaving her there forever and I promise to come back and take her back home with me. -
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RedColoredStars:
There is an actual trailer with footage too. lol. Going to watch it tonight. Grabbed it from... a place.
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