1. MrSandstorm

    MrSandstorm Advanced Member
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    Yes, they are about 1/3mm on the solder sides. You won't be applying solder directly to them, though, just pre-tinning the pads on the SX and then reflowing the solder onto the caps with the help of some flux.

    Still, if you're not comfortable with doing it, don't risk your console, look for someone to do it for you. Phone repair shops that do board-level stuff should be able to do this easily, for example.
     
    Last edited by MrSandstorm, Jun 11, 2020
  2. Diskun

    Diskun Advanced Member
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    Wow, this pic does really put into perspective how mindbogglingly small are the caps on the package.

    I wouldn't try to install this with my hobbyist soldering iron for my life. The risk of screwing up a $300 console is too high.
     
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  3. MrSandstorm

    MrSandstorm Advanced Member
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    Indeed. I opened my Lite a few weeks ago just to get a general idea, and yeah, it's a delicate job to put it mildly. If you want some reference, the whole Tegra X1 package including substrate is about the size of the 2 Euro coin. The die itself is smaller than the 1 Cent. If anyone was still considering using hot air for this, think again.
     
    Last edited by MrSandstorm, Jun 11, 2020
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  4. S_Sustain

    S_Sustain Member
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    I've just been practicing a bit more on some 0201s on a scrap board. An 0.2mm tip with 0.4mm solder feels fairly comfortable with some decent fluxing.
     
  5. Artwebb

    Artwebb Advanced Member
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    Not here, Costco had atleast 2 full skids of 99%. $10.99 for 4x 500ml bottles.
     
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  6. weatMod

    weatMod GBAtemp Addict
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    yeah probably cause the 75 % is the sought after one for corona the 90% evaporates too quickly to kill the virus or so they say
     
  7. Artwebb

    Artwebb Advanced Member
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    Its 99%
     
  8. XD2020

    XD2020 Advanced Member
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    So I was a little freaked out after I saw Theorem's post above, but then I got out my soldering iron, practice SMB board, and magnifier glasses. The job seems delicate, but doable.
    [​IMG]
    The fine tip on the vastar variable iron seems small enough to hit the point on either side of the millimeter mark (which is about half the size of 0402) . The same iron used in the sx core video that NickMoses05 did.
     
    Last edited by XD2020, Jun 12, 2020
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  9. Theorem

    Theorem Member
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    I didnt want to scare people. I just wanted to clearly state, that this job is not that easy for someone doing this for the first time.But if you have at least average equipment (and FLUX!) you can do it without any hassle.Just try to avoid common mistakes, and be patient.
     
  10. XD2020

    XD2020 Advanced Member
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    No, I didn’t mean to imply that - your post was great. It gave a realistic view of how small the soldering points are. I was happy that I had the same practice board to compare to.
     
  11. XD2020

    XD2020 Advanced Member
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    Does it make any sense to try and cover half the capacitor with electrical tape so as to not bridge the connection? Then flux, flow solder, and then move to opposite side, or would it just get in the way.
     
  12. Diskun

    Diskun Advanced Member
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    I don't think electrical tape would hold that temperature or stick tight enough to prevent bridging. Kapton maybe since it resists well over 300ºC.

    I don't know about the technique itself tho. I have never tried that and the area is very small, but it's pretty smart.
     
  13. S_Sustain

    S_Sustain Member
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    As it's already been mentioned, it's probably going to be easier to lightly tin the solder points on the flex cable, flux the capacitors (Great Scott!) And lightly drag the solder over to the caps from the solder points. Less solder is better IMHO. Can always add tiny amounts after to ensure a good connection.
     
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  14. Theorem

    Theorem Member
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    If you put enough flux on cap to cover it entirely you will not bridge its connections. And if it anyways will, flux will help to resolve bridge easily.Do not put any tape in there.For me good process would be according to these lines:

    1) Clean all thermal paste on and between caps. When you think it is enough - clean it again..Use ear swabs and IPA or something close to it. Then let it drain completely
    2) Now put some flux on anchor point on strip that are soldered first to (large pads)
    3) Align it properly, verify twice. If you are afraid it will move, yo can stick it to chip using capton tape.Then solder anchor points. If you pretint first, you could have problem squeezing it under shielding if you just flux it and solder in place, you wont have this problem. For this job you dont need tiniest soldering tip. You better use a bit larger one with good thermal transfer to attach it nicely to the shield.
    4) Then change tip to smaller one to get caps soldering correct. Put all cap in flux (cover it) and then (temperature about 350 celsius - depending on your solder quality) just tip each side of the cap. Only second or two no more. It should flow nicely.The same on the other side.If anything bridges.Clean it with IPA, put new flux and try again.But dont heat it longer than lets say 3 seconds.
    5) Clean all soldering with IPA (or similar) to make it nice and shiny and job is done

    All the rest is easy (triwing and philips screwdrivers needed)
     
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  15. JoeBloggs777

    JoeBloggs777 GBAtemp Advanced Fan
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  16. Theorem

    Theorem Member
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    No, this is not for soldering.This is something like conductive glue if you need to repair missing conductive trace (instead of wire).
    Use standard 60/40 leaded solder wire (0,5 - 0,7 mm) for this job.Avoid any ROHS sh*t (unleaded solder) -Greta's favourite.
     
    Last edited by Theorem, Jun 12, 2020
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  17. weatMod

    weatMod GBAtemp Addict
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  18. JoeBloggs777

    JoeBloggs777 GBAtemp Advanced Fan
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    sorry I must have missed it :unsure:. I've got a unpatched switch so no need for me now, but if my kids want another one, I'll try a shop near me that repairs consoles etc and if they will not I might try using a conductive epoxy. :O
     
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  19. MrSandstorm

    MrSandstorm Advanced Member
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    I really wouldn't try to flow solder directly onto something that small. We're talking about a component that's 0.3mm on the solder sides, that's smaller than the diameter of most solder available. It's too easy to overdo it and end up with an obnoxious blob of solder that's larger than the solder point itself and still doesn't make a reliable connection.

    Theorem has made some pretty good posts explaining the process.
    1. Clean everything thoroughly with IPA. Any dirt or residue will impede solder flow.
    2. Tin the contacts (not the anchors!) before positioning. Don't overdo it, you don't want a blob of solder.
    3. Position the piece and solder the anchors. You can use kapton tape to hold it while you work on the anchors. Electrical tape can work as long as you keep it as far away as possible from where you're applying heat. If you do use tape, make sure to clean any sticky residue it may leave behind.
    4. Apply flux to the pre-tinned contacts and the components they will be soldered to.
    5. Briefly touch both the component/board contact and the pre-tinned pad to reflow the solder. Don't keep the iron in contact for too long. You're working on small areas and they will heat up quickly. The capacitors are especially vulnerable to thermal shock.
    6. Clean everything thoroughly again. Some types of flux can damage your board over time, so make sure there isn't any left behind.
     
    Last edited by MrSandstorm, Jun 12, 2020
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  20. matias3ds

    OP matias3ds GBAtemp Addict
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    im receiving today a jewelers 1 eye magnifying glass x15 , i hope it has a zoom enough and be able to look if the cap are alright and if they are resolder .
     
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