Thanks for your pictures. I'm currently doing this install but have a question. The flex cable at the top, why are there two D points? The one near the top I understand comes from the DAT0 adapter on the backside, what is the purpose of the other D point?New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision
Switch OLED teardown V1/V2
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They labeled it wrong. The upper D point is actually C. It connects to the DAT0 eMMC point.
You have the SD with payload.bin plugged in?
Check the CPU solder points (two of them) just check the connector on the right side bottom of the chip and probe for continuity of two points (since there are two points on CPU) with a multimeter.
Just a heads up for those with the 6 wire chip. There's an update to fix issues with SD Card compatibility and it has completely fixed the infinite glitching issue for me.
For those that are looking for links and an install video for the 6 wire version.
My bad, getting a bit ahead of myself. Had watched that video just a while ago, but not quite that far through, as I've run into a problem.. I don't seem to get passed the yellow blinking LED "training" stage. Is this the "infinite glitching" they are referring to? Unfortunately my chip also just jumps to a red LED when connected to the USB cable. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Edit: Also, I've tried disconnected the CPU ribbon cable, that causes instant red light. Also disconnected the ribbon and power cables, and the system turned on normally, so there are no massive shorts happening. Diode values seem decent.
Edit: Also, I've tried disconnected the CPU ribbon cable, that causes instant red light. Also disconnected the ribbon and power cables, and the system turned on normally, so there are no massive shorts happening. Diode values seem decent.
If you disconnect all the wires and connect the chip to your computer are you still getting red or yellow?
I had an issue with it taking over 10 minutes to do the learning thing. This came down to me not having a good connection on either SP1/SP2 so I just resoldered them and touched up the CLK point and all was well.
They all seem to be reading decently except potentially the RST, getting conflicting results on searching this value. Should it read a diode value? Some say no. I don't seem to get anything even directly from the board, and that was one of the easier wires to get attached.
Edit: Tried disconnecting the RST point from the chip, no change in behavior. Not sure what the RST point does exactly...
Edit: Tried disconnecting the RST point from the chip, no change in behavior. Not sure what the RST point does exactly...
Last edited by ViOTeK,
Like I said, remove your chip from the console and plug into PC, do you get a red or yellow LED, if yellow, flash the latest fw. If it's red or anything else you probably have a bad or bricked chip
Since I don't have a board in front of me, would anyone be able to probe around on the board and find a spot where vol + and vol - would link up? I've had to reset my chip a couple times due to infinite glitching, linking the reset points to vol + and - may be a good idea, hold both on startup and it resets... assuming this would work.
Just tried, no go, still get a red light, after a quick single blue/purple blip.
Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.
Checking the other connections currently but they look pretty good, curious on my diode readings however as they are all a bit higher then in the video guide:
DAT0 = 970
CLK = 975
CMD = 965
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 455?
Edit: The above RST reading is right on the boards solder point, so maybe it's my meter, will check again tomorrow.
3.3v = 1142
GND = 0
Can anyone comment? Also, this is using an ancient crappy multimeter.. I'll be picking up a better one tomorrow and re-check.
About time to check out for the night, just glad it's not bricked, yet.
your rst definitely has issue, rest looks ok.Just tried, no go, still get a red light, after a quick single blue/purple blip.
Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.
Checking the other connections currently but they look pretty good, curious on my diode readings however as they are all a bit higher then in the video guide:
DAT0 = 970
CLK = 975
CMD = 965
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 455?
Edit: The above RST reading is right on the boards solder point, so maybe it's my meter, will check again tomorrow.
3.3v = 1142
GND = 0
Can anyone comment? Also, this is using an ancient crappy multimeter.. I'll be picking up a better one tomorrow and re-check.
About time to check out for the night, just glad it's not bricked, yet.
Thanks duder, Yeah I'm working on an updated oled install vid right now going over the various happenings in the Oled scene, (new chips, hwfly lite psa ect)It's this one. I cut off part of the flex PCB (the U shaped one) because it goes over a chip to reach the 3.3v/ground, thus it goes up in the air. After I cut it, that PCB flex piece lays FLAT
Without the USB debug port it's not easily flashable. You'll probably have to solder wires to the chip pins to flash it...
@Modzvilleusa does alot of installs, he's good. He also believes this version is poorly designed
Don't be fooled by the slick appearance of the dual flex cable. Everything about these chips is shittier than the other chips with the debug port.
Cpu cable is jank, dat0 adapter should be thrown in the trash and boot times are the worst.
It also can't be updated / flashed unlike the other variant. Just avoid this revision entirely and use the oled chip with the debug port / test pads to solder to.
Sounds like a bad chip. Assuming it's the 6 wire chip it should be yellowJust tried, no go, still get a red light, after a quick single blue/purple blip.
Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.
Checking the other connections currently but they look pretty good, curious on my diode readings however as they are all a bit higher then in the video guide:
DAT0 = 970
CLK = 975
CMD = 965
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 455?
Edit: The above RST reading is right on the boards solder point, so maybe it's my meter, will check again tomorrow.
3.3v = 1142
GND = 0
Can anyone comment? Also, this is using an ancient crappy multimeter.. I'll be picking up a better one tomorrow and re-check.
About time to check out for the night, just glad it's not bricked, yet.
Hello, just received my OLED chips and when connecting to the PC one goes straight to RED led and the other Yellow led.
the one with that goes straight to Red has a groove on one of the chips like its been dremeled.
I'm assuming its dead? what about the Yellow led one? should it not be Green or only when it's installed?
still waiting for my OLED Switch to arrive.
the one with that goes straight to Red has a groove on one of the chips like its been dremeled.
I'm assuming its dead? what about the Yellow led one? should it not be Green or only when it's installed?
still waiting for my OLED Switch to arrive.
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