Hardware Hacking Switch OLED 256gb NAND upgrade

binkinator

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It's possible to start the Horizon OS without the fuel gauge chip?
Or is there any way to bypass the battery level check?
For as far as I know, it is this check that is preventing the system from booting. Currently I can only get to Hekate.
I know of no way to do this. Very niche issue to have I would think.
 

Aheago

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I have a Switch OLED with sx core (spacecraft 0.2 firmware)
I want to upgrade the NAND from 64GB to a biggest 256GB
I already have a 64GB NAND backup.

To perform this upgrade, i just need to dessolder the old chip, solder back the new blank one, restore the backup and resize user partition?

The sx core works with a blank eMMC?
Just saw a very relevant tweet that might be of some help
 
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binkinator

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Yooooo. It all here, but I think my shit shrunk in the mail! That shit is tiny!


image.jpg
 

zal16

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I know it's not part of the scope of this thread, but I still have problems with the fuel gauge, the battery percentage is crazy, sometimes it's at 100%, other times the console turns itself off by a supposed low battery.

I went into Hekate, saw in the battery section that the voltages, currents and other things were also crazy.

Already tried reballing the MAX chip, but nothing changed. I didn't find any shorts on his outputs either.

Did I buy a faulty chip or did I damage it during installation?
Or would some calibration or reset be necessary?

I attached some screenshots and a dump of the MAX chip logs (i renamed it from bin to txt, because this site didn't allow certain file extensions)
 

Attachments

  • nyx20201201_132435.bmp
    3.5 MB · Views: 9
  • nyx20201201_151738.bmp
    3.5 MB · Views: 9
  • fuel_gauge.txt
    512 bytes · Views: 9

binkinator

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did you manage to solder your eMMC?
It’s THE project of the weekend! I‘ve just been playing with the card reader so far. Reading and writing Boot0/1 and fullnand backups. So far so good. still a little sweaty about my dexterity but less concerned than I was initially!

e:
  • get the 32G off the donor board. ✅
  • reball the 256G using the melty paste method. ✅
  • solder the 256 to the 32 donor board without blowing the chip away in the middle of the process! ✅
🤯 taking a break before I have a mental meltdown.

I’m going to switch to a wider nozzle in hopes of taming the velocity of my air.

e2:
the larger nozzle was the right move. I have my 256G chip mounted.

flipped it over and I also unsoldered the FPC connector. Ungh.
just a quick tune-up, right?
nope. got a little too close and melted the body of the 30 pin FPC just as it was settling into place. 🤬
ordering a replacement now…

e3:
so apparently you have to be pretty stupid to do what I did because these 30 pin FPC connectors are super hard to find by themselves. Had to order a new donor board. FFS
 
Last edited by binkinator,

zal16

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It’s THE project of the weekend! I‘ve just been playing with the card reader so far. Reading and writing Boot0/1 and fullnand backups. So far so good. still a little sweaty about my dexterity but less concerned than I was initially!

e:
  • get the 32G off the donor board. ✅
  • reball the 256G using the melty paste method. ✅
  • solder the 256 to the 32 donor board without blowing the chip away in the middle of the process! ✅
🤯 taking a break before I have a mental meltdown.

I’m going to switch to a wider nozzle in hopes of taming the velocity of my air.

e2:
the larger nozzle was the right move. I have my 256G chip mounted.

flipped it over and I also unsoldered the FPC connector. Ungh.
just a quick tune-up, right?
nope. got a little too close and melted the body of the 30 pin FPC just as it was settling into place. 🤬
ordering a replacement now…

e3:
so apparently you have to be pretty stupid to do what I did because these 30 pin FPC connectors are super hard to find by themselves. Had to order a new donor board. FFS
No wonder it took me 3 months to solder my eMMC. It's an extremely difficult task, even more so for an OLED Switch, which doesn't have a daughter board.
And after all the difficulty soldering, I still had several side effects, the cooler and display locks broke (I can still connect and work, but it doesn't lock), but the worst of these effects was the fuel gauge chip that, I don't know how, it cracked, which forced me to buy another one and spend several days trying to calibrate the battery, I even had help from Ctcaer.

In the end, I ended up getting it.
But I don't think I would do it again if I knew I would have so much trouble.
 

zal16

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It’s THE project of the weekend! I‘ve just been playing with the card reader so far. Reading and writing Boot0/1 and fullnand backups. So far so good. still a little sweaty about my dexterity but less concerned than I was initially!

e:
  • get the 32G off the donor board. ✅
  • reball the 256G using the melty paste method. ✅
  • solder the 256 to the 32 donor board without blowing the chip away in the middle of the process! ✅
🤯 taking a break before I have a mental meltdown.

I’m going to switch to a wider nozzle in hopes of taming the velocity of my air.

e2:
the larger nozzle was the right move. I have my 256G chip mounted.

flipped it over and I also unsoldered the FPC connector. Ungh.
just a quick tune-up, right?
nope. got a little too close and melted the body of the 30 pin FPC just as it was settling into place. 🤬
ordering a replacement now…

e3:
so apparently you have to be pretty stupid to do what I did because these 30 pin FPC connectors are super hard to find by themselves. Had to order a new donor board. FFS
kapton tape helps to insulate heat in places where you don't want to heat up
 

binkinator

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No wonder it took me 3 months to solder my eMMC. It's an extremely difficult task, even more so for an OLED Switch, which doesn't have a daughter board.
And after all the difficulty soldering, I still had several side effects, the cooler and display locks broke (I can still connect and work, but it doesn't lock), but the worst of these effects was the fuel gauge chip that, I don't know how, it cracked, which forced me to buy another one and spend several days trying to calibrate the battery, I even had help from Ctcaer.

In the end, I ended up getting it.
But I don't think I would do it again if I knew I would have so much trouble.
What was the final thing that fixed your battery gauge?
 

zal16

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What was the final thing that fixed your battery gauge?

I changed the fuel gauge chip, but some parameters were not being measured correctly, crazy voltages and currents, battery at 83 degrees celsius, finally I asked Ctcaer for help, he gave me a .nro (which according to him, he will publish soon) that calibrates the battery. At first it didn't work, so Ctcaer recommended that I re-solder the chip, but this crap is very fragile and I ended up damaging it, which led me to buy another chip (at least this one is pretty cheap).
That second fuel gauge chip arrived the day before yesterday, so I installed it and calibrated it with the mentioned .nro, and now I'm happy and successful with a (relatively rare) combination of an OLED + 256GB eMMC
my console is 100% funtional now! 😄
 
Last edited by zal16,

binkinator

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I think I got it!
(As long as it's OK that it's 233G and not the full 256G...too excited to do the math right now!)

# lsblk | grep mmcblk
mmcblk0 179:0 0 14.6G 0 disk
├─mmcblk0p1 179:1 0 256M 0 part /boot/firmware
└─mmcblk0p2 179:2 0 14.4G 0 part /
mmcblk3 179:32 0 233G 0 disk
mmcblk3boot0 179:64 0 4M 1 disk
mmcblk3boot1 179:96 0 4M 1 disk

E: It all worked! Thanks for all the cheers and jeers!

D7C18A95-0E9B-41DC-A152-8D9EC8989FB7.jpeg

(now to figure out how to put Android and L4T on their own eMMc partitions like evils_santa was talking about.)
 
Last edited by binkinator,
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