Switch Lite won't load payload nor OFW after PicoFly install

[Wekiiiii]

I've spent the last 2 days looking for a thread on any site that showed behavior similar to what my Switch Lite is showing right now and so I decided to make a thread incase anyone could give some input

So long story short I installed a HWFly RP2040 mod chip. I got into Hekate, made an emuNand partition on my new SD card. I was about to create a sysNand backup as per recommendation of every install guide but as I was navigating the menus of hekate (I have not started the backup process) the switch turned off. I try turning it back on but I only got the Nintendo logo and the HwFly giving me error codes. I double check my soldering and even check for continuity. Out of frustration, I carefully desoldered the modchip in hopes I could at least get back into OFW.

At this point with the mod chip now removed:
- Switch would show charging icon whenever I plug in a charger
- Trying to turn on the switch would show the Nintendo logo for a second and then black screen. In this state I also noticed the battery would drain.
- After trying to turn it on the first time, I am not able to attempt turning it on again unless the battery drained completely.

A couple days pass and out of curiosity, I reinstall the mod chip and this is where the behavior gets even more interesting:
- Without an SD Card, I get to the PicoFly screen with "No SD Card" written and a battery icon
- With a BLANK SD Card, I get to the PicoFly screen with "Failed to load payload.bin"
- With an SD Card with Hekate as the payload, the screen stays black and the HWFly LED stays pulsating meaning it's still trying to glitch. It stay like this until it times out.
- With an SD Card with Lockpick or UMS as the payload, the screen also stays black but the HWFly claims that it has glitched successfully.



Then following are troubleshooting steps I have tried:
- Formatting my SD Card to FAT32
- Trying different SD Cards of different brands and sizes (8gb, 32gb, and 256gb)
- Redownloading Hekate
- Reflashing the HWFly RP2040 with a fresh install of PicoFly
- Leaving the console to charge
- Double checking solder points, traces, and dirt
- Check diode values of APU capacitors, solder points, and voltage related chips

Any help is gladly appreciated! If there's any info I can provide, I'd gladly oblige!

EDIT1: No payload loads, mod chip is stuck on "glitching"

 

[superfiege]

Hi there
Did you fully charge your switch?
What is the behaviour, when the battery is full?

 

[Wekiiiii]

Hi there
Did you fully charge your switch?
What is the behaviour, when the battery is full?

Hello! I’ve left it charging overnight with and without the mod chip and get the same results unfortunately

 

[superfiege]

Hello! I’ve left it charging overnight with and without the mod chip and get the same results unfortunately

can you boot into OFW from picofly screen with holding volume + and - ?

 

[Wekiiiii]

can you boot into OFW from picofly screen with holding volume + and - ?

Just tried this. Sadly it behaves similar to how it does with the mod chip removed. It shows the nintendo logo for a second then the screen goes black.

 

[Wekiiiii]

Posting an update for the off chances someone comes across this thread.

I fixed it! Now, I guess I must put a disclaimer that my experience may not be the same as yours. Whatever you do, you do so on your own risk. So there were two issues

1. 3.3v wire was connected to the SD Card capacitor. Do NOT do this. Move it to somewhere else. There are a lot of recommended points online that show where you can get 3.3v. Apparently the SD Card capacitor loses power during a crucial moment in glitching causing the mod chip and the console to restart endlessly.

2. After transferring my 3.3v point to a better point, I was finally able to get into Hekate! But booting to OFW or making an emuMMC from stock FW would give me the Nintendo logo then no boot. This was because (for some reason) my NAND got kinda corrupted(???)
I followed Sthetix's guide for a level 1 unbrick and still nothing but thankfully the NAND wasn't corrupt to the point that I couldn't extract the keys
I decided to go for a level 2 unbrick and lo and behold, the switch sprung to life!