Hacking Question Soldering pin 1 & 10 on joy-con.

[BigPanda]

Hello,

I was wondering what are the downside of soldering pin 1 & 10 on the joy-con directly instead of using a printed 'jib'. Will the joy-con would still work afterward. Would it affect the gameplay controls ?

I know that I can use a magnetic switch to short the pins whenever needed using a magnet, but was wondering what will happens if they are always shorted.

Thank you

 

[Clydefrosch]

if pins are soldered, the system wont recognize the joycon as connected physically, leaving it to communicate through blutooth only.
it still gets charged so it probably doesnt matter much.
also them being constantly connected may or may not be a giant red flag for any kind of hack hunt by nintendo.

otherwise, using a joycon (or a replacement rail) is certainly safer for the pins on the switchs side

 

[BigPanda]

if pins are soldered, the system wont recognize the joycon as connected physically, leaving it to communicate through blutooth only.
it still gets charged so it probably doesnt matter much.
also them being constantly connected may or may not be a giant red flag for any kind of hack hunt by nintendo.

otherwise, using a joycon (or a replacement rail) is certainly safer for the pins on the switchs side

Yeah, I am thinking on buying another right joycon just for that..

 

[Hebulicore]

Yeah, I am thinking on buying another right joycon just for that..

What you could do is solder wires from each pin to a small button and make a hole in the joycon shell so when you push the button they connect. I saw someone else who did this.

 

[sarkwalvein]

Yeah, there is a downside.
Pin 1 and 10 are far apart and difficult to solder.
If you are going to solder them in the joycon, better go with pin 9 and 10.

 

[Deleted-355425]

just open the joycon and solder a wire between the 2 required test points on the board to get the same effect.

 

[T-Error]

Yeah, there is a downside.
Pin 1 and 10 are far apart and difficult to solder.
If you are going to solder them in the joycon, better go with pin 9 and 10.

"You can just use a simple piece of wire to bridge it to e.g. a screw on the rail (easiest), or pins 10 and 7 (or 1) together (10 and 9 won’t work)." source: https://fail0verflow.com/blog/2018/shofel2/

 

[Ninoh-FOX]

My joy-con it is dead afte of the mod, the more sure if you make a jig for the hack (I had to buy a new for this reason)

 

[sarkwalvein]

"You can just use a simple piece of wire to bridge it to e.g. a screw on the rail (easiest), or pins 10 and 7 (or 1) together (10 and 9 won’t work)." source: https://fail0verflow.com/blog/2018/shofel2/

That's if you are not doing it on the joycon. On the joycon side it will work due to the extra hardware inside joining pin 9 with something that goes into ground.

PS: I thought that was common knowledge by now, but that is the reason I stated "if you are doing it in the joycon, then..."

 

[T-Error]

That's if you are not doing it on the joycon. On the joycon side it will work due to the extra hardware inside joining pin 9 with something that goes into ground.

PS: I thought that was common knowledge by now, but that is the reason I stated "if you are doing it in the joycon, then..."

Why would you use pin 9 from which you don't know if its an in- or output when you could connect pin 10 to any ground directly? I would see that as an unnecessary risk.

 

[sarkwalvein]

Why would you use pin 9 from which you don't know if its an in- or output when you could connect pin 10 to any ground directly? I would see that as an unnecessary risk.

Because it was the original suggestion posted by KTemkin. It is not a risk, it is the original solution.

PS: I think you haven't done enough reading in the early days, if you want to get more info about what I am talking about look for topics related to the "bentpinhax" and how it is performed.

 

[Clydefrosch]

Yeah, I am thinking on buying another right joycon just for that..

its probably cheaper to just get the replacement part though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-R-Arm-Sl...hash=item33e7c2b23a:m:mUvfR_oIR4W0Dmqc_rDePnQ

that way you dont need the acursed triwing screwdriver

 

[Deathscreton]

if pins are soldered, the system wont recognize the joycon as connected physically, leaving it to communicate through blutooth only.
it still gets charged so it probably doesnt matter much.

I thought this was debunked awhile back?

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Why would you use pin 9 from which you don't know if its an in- or output when you could connect pin 10 to any ground directly? I would see that as an unnecessary risk.

Supposedly pin 9 is always ground when the JoyCon is connected.

Hello,

I was wondering what are the downside of soldering pin 1 & 10 on the joy-con directly instead of using a printed 'jib'. Will the joy-con would still work afterward. Would it affect the gameplay controls ?

I know that I can use a magnetic switch to short the pins whenever needed using a magnet, but was wondering what will happens if they are always shorted.

Thank you

I wouldn't do it, you void the warranty on your JoyCon and it's extra work for no reason when you can get a jig from this guy for shipping only, which is £1.70 within Europe: https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintendo-switch-rcm-jigs.502091/
And as mentioned Nintendo could easily detect that constant home button press in future firmware updates since it's never supposed to be pressed normally.

By the way, I already got my jig from that guy, haven't tried it out yet but looks fine, wire is in the right place and the print quality seems fine so I can recommend him.

Get a jig from him now and you'll have it in a week or so if he has any left to send out right away, the homebrew scene hasn't really matured yet and sound support is still lacking so there's not really any reason to rush it by modding the JoyCon.

 

[Clydefrosch]

Because it was the original suggestion posted by KTemkin. It is not a risk, it is the original solution.

yes, if you bridge the contacts using the joycon, or to be more specific, if you have a joycon inserted while briding both of these pins
the joycon connects 9 to ground through some component. on the switchs side on its own however (like when you put in a jig or whatever), 9 isn't always grounded (making it less reliable) and might in rare instances carry voltage (making it slightly dangerous)

 

[T-Error]

Because it was the original suggestion posted by KTemkin. It is not a risk, it is the original solution.

Then I don't get why Team fail0verflow would say that this does not work. But maybe they just ment for the jig. What I wanted to say is that ground is ground and pin 10 could be connected directly. Which should result in an easier soldering job especially if you want to add a switch.

 

[fadx]

if pins are soldered, the system wont recognize the joycon as connected physically, leaving it to communicate through blutooth only.

That's not true. If the soldering is done correctly and you don't solder the wrong pin or bridge a connections you shouldn't then it connects directly to the console.

 

[nachuz]

if pins are soldered, the system wont recognize the joycon as connected physically, leaving it to communicate through blutooth only.
it still gets charged so it probably doesnt matter much.
also them being constantly connected may or may not be a giant red flag for any kind of hack hunt by nintendo.

otherwise, using a joycon (or a replacement rail) is certainly safer for the pins on the switchs side

you know, rechargable joy con grip exists, so technically it wouldn't be bluetooth only

 

[Ryab]

Yeah, I am thinking on buying another right joycon just for that..

you could just buy an rcm jig for about $5 USD on ebay or someone on gbatemp its just a little jig that you slide down into the right joycon rail that will auto short the pins

 

[BigPanda]

Thanks everyone, I'll will figure out what I will do that tomorrow.