1. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    So i bought an original 3DS XL with the purpose of trying to fix it one way or another was described as charges turns on (blue light) for a bit and then shuts off not an immediate shut off which I think would indicate loose ribbon cable or connector.

    So I have done the following so far:

    - Powered it on to observe the behavior and after 5 seconds with no memory card will shut off and makes a very low pop noise when it does
    - Opened it up and checked all ribbon cables reseated all twice and cleaned the pins with IPA, no corrosion or liquid damage (had to check)
    - Had a broken or torn right trigger ribbon cable so I replaced it with an original 3DS ribbon cable it fits and works fine connecting it to the board
    - When a memory card is plugged in it shuts off quicker
    - Tried Mr. Mario's Soft bricked reset method left right triggers d pad up and A button nothing
    - Tried putting several soft mod brick Luma files on a SD Card like 7.1 and it goes on i see a QUICK FLASH of the recovery screen white and red text and it shuts off not even quick enough to read it.
    - Tried Magnet trick with home / start / x and power combo stays on for like maybe 7 or 8 seconds and shuts off.

    I could easily get another board and be done with it but that kills the fun of trying to troubleshoot and fix.

    Thanks again. I dont think its MCU bricked as I read it would have to have some cabling issue whereas all cables are connected and accounted for.
     
  2. TurdPooCharger

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    Lacius likes this.
  3. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    TurdPooCharger I actually have a bin of spares of original 3ds and pulled the one flex cable for the right trigger and it seems to work plugs into both spots on the board. I will try above and report back as I have been spending quite some time reading here and trying a bunch of different things.

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Pretty sure I did all of that in the post while I struggled with the formatting steps (Crazy as that sounds) I used Windows Fat32 FOrmatter I could not get the software do recognize in the latter steps but I did load the files on the card and it turns on screens light and then shuts off
    I can hold buttons down and then it stays on until I let go.
     
  4. TurdPooCharger

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    Do the SD card reformat, h2testw, and a9lh/b9s files as a litmus test to rule out software issue. If that doesn't work, problem is either broken SD card slot reader or other failed hardware part.

    Popping noise usually indicates broken flex cable. The ones for the camera assembly, volume|speaker, and/or upper LCD screen are the most susceptible due to bending stress from the clam shell design.
     
  5. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    OK so went out and bought a new SD Card this morning 32 GB and did all the write verify test and same thing system turns on and then off. The only button combo that makes it stay on a tiny bit longer is select+start+x so I checked all the cables going into the board with a magnifying glass so they all appear to be ok. I even swapped out an original right trigger cable from another 3DS XL which is known working and that did not do it. So you suspect it could be a camera cable possibly in the upper screen. Doesn't that cable also connect to the MB though? When I removed all the cables from the top of the board the only cable i had left underneath it I think was the top screen cable. Is possible the camera is torn up? I am going to go back again with a more focused eye and check all cables and connections again and will let you know. Board did look completely clean under and on top no corrosion
     
  6. TurdPooCharger

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    Did you try booting with both Luma3DS v7.0.5 arm9loaderhax.bin and SafeB9SInstaller renamed as boot.firm?

    If you did and the o3DSXL failed to boot with the blue light turning on and off, despite the perfectly reformatted and H2testw tested SD card, the problem might be the SD card slot reader is broken or dirty. Try spraying the slot with canned air or using a vacuum cleaner with thin adapter hose to remove lint/dirt; don't blow with your mouth as spit can get in and corrode the pins.
     
  7. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    So I did vacuum it out with an electronics vacuum seemed to be in clean condition when I got it but same behaviors are exhibited. Are there certain pins I can test for continuity? or potentially a fault?
     
  8. TurdPooCharger

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    You might be able to test for continuity with a multimeter if the o3DSXL has holes to probe each of the pins from the inside and backside. See picture. I think there's a lever on the side that can get stuck and cause the SD slot reader to go into read-only mode even if your SD card doesn't have its slide switch set to LOCK.

    Other than that, there's desoldering the SD slot reader and replacing it with another.
     
  9. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    Going to try possibly a known good board next after testing with multi meter
     
  10. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    Ok so maybe some curveballs here, tested cartridge slot on red 3DS XL the unit I am challenged with, I pulled the board from a Blue 3DS XL and it did the same thing in the red unit blue light then a popping noise. So I put the good board back into the blue unit. So conclusion board is good on red 3ds xl. Question could a potentially tiny bit worn antenna cable cause the issue? I am going to check all connections again on the red every flex cable on the end to see if all contacts are intact
     
  11. TurdPooCharger

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    Any torn cable or disconnected part will cause no boot. You so much as look at your o3DSXL funny, it'll decide to no longer want to work. There are no failsafes and redundancy when it comes to hardware for these handhelds.

    Popping noise usually comes from speaker, camera, or top lcd flex cables. Be careful continually overdoing that popping. This can shock and kill the motherboard.
     
  12. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    Duly noted, I did find one flex cable had a small what appeared to be something on one of the pins, used a fiber glass pen to clean it up will see not too confident.
     
  13. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    Ok here is a picture of the top half I dont seem to notice anything awry do you? I reseated both cables near the screen for good measure. I checked all solder points on wireless antenna, speakers etc
     

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  14. TurdPooCharger

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    What do the cables around the hinge barrel look like?
     
  15. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    I took the closest pictures I could get

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Could a broken screen i.e. cracked cause the turn on instant shut off? I don’t think so but I figured I would ask
     

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  16. TurdPooCharger

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    Cracked or spilled LCD usually don't cause boot failure, but I've seen it happen on n2DSXL.

    Btw, there is a right connector with the white flap in the first picture. The second trace to the left looks like it has a hairline crack.
     
  17. gamesquest1

    gamesquest1 Nabnut
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    it will probably be a torn LCD cable, not necessarily "torn" but worn to the point one of the connections is broken
     
  18. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    Turdpoocharger First off since I haven’t even thanked you for all the time you spent trying to help thank you very much going to have a look at that trace right now I Soum you’re furring to the cable connector on the right not the left one and you’re saying the trace second Traceto the left and have a look
     
  19. TurdPooCharger

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    About to go on coffee break. @gamesquest1, can you take it from it? Thanks.

    1st picture, Right connector, 2nd trace on the left.

    hairline crack.png
     
  20. zincmann

    OP zincmann Member
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    Yes I found that I took out my multi meter tested for continuity so the left connector test fine first pen read second pan I put black on there and I get the beep with the connector on the right with the suppose it broken trace I’m getting no beep I’m at second pin on the connector so my guesses as an actual break I’m guessing you’re gonna recommend putting some Solder on that pin potential he which probably will be challenge
     
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