Baseline GBA would have used unleaded solder which tends to need a higher temperature to melt than glorious wondrous leaded. Most other things of similar vintage or newer (forget when lead free became law but it was mostly a formality at that point) will also be unleaded so practice there will be about the same. Do also go with some nice extra flux as it buys you a bit of time, transfers a bit if heat to where it is both needed and away to keep harms less, and keeps things from oxidising too.
The usual tradeoff is too low and you dwell too long on the area and cause fun (maybe not even melt it if it is a weird lead free and you have it hot enough for leaded, or do a cold joint which is possibly worse in some ways), too high and you impart more heat than needed and cause fun. If you have got used to a firestarter iron then you are probably already pretty quick to remove when you see the puddle form so I would skew hotter if the choice presents itself. Others favour gradually turning it up and testing it to see when it melts from a brief touch.
Temperatures the irons claim to be I tend to find are more of a mild suggestion as well on most things that don't cost a fortune, and your tip selection also has an impact here (your standard pencil tip from the average firestarter possibly being one of the worst designs for a lot of people, spade/flat and well tips that tend to come with something you actually want to replace the tip on when it breaks can be like a whole other world.
