Hardware Planning to build a machine centered around i9-9900k...
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Just followed up to the end of the rainbow.
Using a 5820k (140w TDP) and a R9 390 (275w TDP) with a 750w PSU (and both items overclocked) and I dont go anywhere near that, 650w should be fine
Last edited by Joe88,
God, you are like. The dream client lol, you're basically giving me no constraints for designing the system XD
Ooooookay, this is slightly different than what I usually do, because again, I usually try to balance performance and cost, whereas you're trying to build a system that's really not very cost-effective. That said, I'll do a revision later today and see what you have to say about the price it will come to (because didn't you say some of the money would be going towards kids' education?)
And also yeah, I'll respond to your stuff as well:
So obviously liquid coolers are a little more complex mechanically than air coolers, which means that logically they have more potential points of failure (leaks, clogs, pump failures, etc.). That said, today's AIOs are much better than the DIY kits of yesteryear; they're completely sealed (some of them you can open for maintenance, although it may void the warranty, others you definitely can't), but all of them include fluid in them that is designed to be not only thermally efficient, but also to kill any potential contaminants that may enter the system. Plus, compared to the rest of the system, this is dirt cheapSo if one fails outside of the warranty period (which is actually pretty lengthy for some, but that's something you may want to research on your own), you can realistically just get another one and eat the ~week of downtime
Alternatively, there are also some pretty thicc air coolers for around the same price we can look at as well, if you want negligibly hotter temps for potentially much higher fault tolerance
Gotta admit, I completely forgot about that as well. Depending on features compared to quality, that may also potentially make the build cheaper. And yeah, the boards I recommend will usually come from ASUS or Gigabyte at this price range, although MSI may catch my eye as well and are just as good as the other two (I just don't have any experience with them)
Noted. RAM prices are annoying right now, but not as bad as they were a few months ago
So when you say "backup", do you mean a drive for games/videos/documents? Or do you mean something that you could use a software solution to clone important data to?
Yup! It's a relatively young technology by Intel that uses a special Intel SSD module to effectively cache frequently accessed files on a SATA hard drive of your choosing. The idea is that after a restart or two, you'll get SSD-like performance on a mechanical hard drive
Oh, that's something I didn't even think to ask. I'll find a case with a 5.25" bay in it for the revision then
EVGA is generally regarded as THE brand to get NVidia cards from, although MSI is definitely a contender. I've never bought a Gigabyte card, and don't know that I ever would. That said, my reasoning is based more on aesthetics than anything; I just really don't like the looks of their cards
Agreed, I let the parametric decide but I agree that the PSU it picked is a little wimpy. I'll properly pick on next time, then
Yeah I’m definitely going i9-9900k with a z390 mobo.
It’ll have 32gb ram/possibly 64gb depending on price. I want to max out the speed of the ram.
The 1tb nvme will house the os and pretty much everything. The “backup” drive us just a storage drive for music, files, games etc. most game will be on the nvme. I’m using about 1tb for storage currently on usb drives. I’m thinking a few tb hdd.
A failed water cooler is what scares me off of water cooling. Is the liquid non-corrosive? I’d hate to pop a line and ruin the mobo and all that. Plus the 9900k reviews and stuff are still under wraps. I’m anxiously awaiting temperatures and such.
Rumors of 2080ti performance are 15-45% gains on current games and the gains are game dependent. Again- I’m highly anticipating reviews and benchmarks. I might just get a 1080ti for now and see what severals years down the line being the RTX series. I’m hopeful the RTX is worth getting though.
Well it turns out my grandpa was rich yet lived as if middle class. 10% of it when to the grandchildren - 12 or them. Him living as he did sets a good example on how to live and take care of family.
I was planning a new build soon but within a $1500 budget before this surprise.
I’ve been reading that a psu should be putting out about 80% of it’s capacity ideally for maximum psu life. I.e. if your system requires only 80w the psu should be rated at 100w which will maximize its life. This is just a simple example but I don’t know if what I read is true.
40-45 - still awaiting taxes on some.
Also I’m replacing the monitor too. I’m thinking 24” -30” adequate for gaming.
Last edited by Classicgamer,
That's really something that you'll have to look into on your own to see if it's worth it; look at reviews and warranty information especially. With AIOs of today, though, because of how they're sealed it's much more likely that a pump would die. Realistically you'd figure out pretty quickly, because it'd probably make a loud grinding noise and then nothing, then your system'd shut down after a few minutes due to overheating. Realistically, though, the chances of that happening on a quality unity are negligible, within the warranty period at least
That's what I'd do, but I also don't have even as much money as you have budgeted in my bank account, let alone in a parts budget! So really you're a special case, I'd wait for performance metrics and decide for yourself if the new card is worth it for the priceRumors of 2080ti performance are 15-45% gains on current games and the gains are game dependent. Again- I’m highly anticipating reviews and benchmarks. I might just get a 1080ti for now and see what severals years down the line being the RTX series. I’m hopeful the RTX is worth getting though.
So, that depends on the unit. In most manuals (and even sometimes marketing graphics) the companies will usually show an efficiency curve which will tell you what percentage of efficiency the unit is at what load levels. Many peak at around 50%-80% load, but not all of them
Also, thank you all for your expertise and insight in this build. I appreciate your time and effort!
Haha I’m sorry! LoL
I’m a dealer mechanic- it pays the bills for sure.
A sudden inheritance sure does make you think about what’s important in life. I told my wife I just want a new pc and the rest is for the family.
Haha I’m sorry! LoL
I’m a dealer mechanic- it pays the bills for sure.
A sudden inheritance sure does make you think about what’s important in life. I told my wife I just want a new pc and the rest is for the family.
I can feel you with the old furnace, Im in the same boat. Im afraid of the day it'll break down for good.
I skipped page 2, sorry if repeating information.
NVMe is not the bus, that would be either PCIe or SATA depending on the motherboard. At this point, PCIe is basically guaranteed, but the M.2 connector is designed to be flexible. NVMe is somewhere between PCIe and software. It's largely a change in how the firmware works, but does mess with electrical signals. PCI Express =/= NVMe.
This is Intel we're talking about. The only reason it would be soldered is if they can't keep they thermals under 80 with standard paste. I'm guessing 60 idle.
Thank you, that was a clarification I was actually looking for, and that makes a lot of sense
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterLiquid 240 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($74.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($300.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($296.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($1249.99)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: *SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.73 @ B&H)
Optical Drive: *LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Other: Core i9 9900k ($520.00)
Total: $2938.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-13 13:49 EDT-0400
Alright, let's try that. I'm in a bit of a rush right now, but I can explain my justification behind every part in just a bit if you want
Also, keep in mind that prices are subject to change on the CPU and GPU, and the motherboard is a placeholder
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterLiquid 240 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($74.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($300.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($296.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($1249.99)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: *SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.73 @ B&H)
Optical Drive: *LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Other: Core i9 9900k ($520.00)
Total: $2938.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-13 13:49 EDT-0400
Alright, let's try that. I'm in a bit of a rush right now, but I can explain my justification behind every part in just a bit if you want
Also, keep in mind that prices are subject to change on the CPU and GPU, and the motherboard is a placeholder
Last edited by TotalInsanity4,
Liquid cooling is that much better than air? How hot do 7700k and up run? My 3770k on air is 20s idle and 50s loaded.
Is 1tb the current max size on nvme?
That’s a lot of work you’ve done, thanks!! Good list and options here.
Again, something you'll have to decide on your own, I'm going to put down exactly what you ask for in these parts lists. I'd say yes, liquid cooling is better due to the fact that it's significantly quieter and the increased surface area of the radiator vs fin stack means there's more potential heat dissipation. In the real world, though, it may not actually make a difference. I'd wait until Tom's Hardware reviews the chip, personlly.
Oh, and to answer your question, it looks like according to Tom's, the 7700k hovers around 70*C under gaming load
So far as I'm aware, yeah. You could theoretically have up to three NVMe drives in that board, but. Why. Lol
Oh, also, I'd like to plug that case for a second because I love Phanteks; you're going to find that case literally perfect for your use case. It's super pretty, has a convenient front panel layout and has an optical drive bay for your Bluray drive. Plus, I've built in its little brother, the Eclipse P400, and while that one has some rather unfortunate thermal issues it both looks fantastic and is super easy to build in. It looks like with the Enthoo line they've solved the thermal issue by basically opening the front up for airflow, so yeah. Highest recommendation there.
I thought 7700 would be cooler. Maybe mine is cool because I have a case fan directly in the side of the case on top of the hsf LoL
Tom's uses an open-air bench I believe, so I doubt that's what's going on. I think you just have a really cool running chip honestly, either that or you have a REALLY nice cooler
Edit: Also I fucked up the formatting when I posted the part list initially (again, rushed). I fixed it earlier today, though, so you can view it on PCPP or look at the parts individually
It’s a thermaltake from yesteryear. It has massive heat pipes with dual fans with manual speed dials.
It kind of makes me sad to think about retiring this machine haha
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Last edited by Classicgamer,
Oh damn that's actually not too bad. Shame the bracket probably wouldn't support socket 1151, because that would still likely work just fine in this build
It depends. A bad (relatively speaking) liquid cooler performs way better than a bad (again, relatively speaking) air cooler, but some oversized air coolers like the Noctua NH-D15 (look at the thing, it's huge! https://noctua.at/media/catalog/pro...8eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/n/h/nh_d15_1.jpg) perform similarly to decent AIO watercooling.
Of course, that has its drawbacks, one of the biggest being that not every setup can accommodate such a huge cooler, it requires a rather large case and depending on your mobo layout it might still not fit, whereas it's much easier to find a setup that can accomodate a 120mm AIO, or even a 240mm. So many cases these days are designed with that option in mind (for example removable top or front fans where a radiator can be mounted), they don't need to be especially big, and the motherboard layout doesn't matter, giving you more freedom of choice.
Also, I believe liquid cooling is generally quieter.
But you'd be fine with a decent air cooler as long as you're not doing heavy overclocking. At that point, you're probably going to want a custom watercooling loop for CPU+GPU anyway. But AIOs are a nice middle road for doing light/mid overclocking while keeping noise down. An air cooler can do light/mid overclocking, but as said that has its drawbacks.
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