Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Nephiel

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After removing the fpc connector I’m not able to update the firmware. Should I leave it on? Are there any reason to update the RP2040 firmware in the future? Could it be needed to update to a newer atmosphere version?
It can still be updated later via Picofly Toolbox payload, if needed. But once it works reliably on a given console, I'd say there's no need to update.
 
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JuGiZu

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I have switch v2 with weird problem. I installed picofly and glitch works okay but then i get error: failed to init sd card.

Tested with multiple sd card readers and sd cards and always the same error. If there is sd card installed it stays on switch logo. If i remove sd card it boots normally.

I checked the connector with microscope and it's good. Also checked pins with multimeter when the sd card reader was in place and it was ok.

Any suggestions what to check next?
 

Warbeast81

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Pfff, is this good now?
Need soldering mask.

One tingy, power button does not work, it turns on when i plug in the power cable.
Glitching time 1 or 2 seconds.
I would say if you removed the board then check the flex cable for the power button likely isn't in right
 

Artimental

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Hey guys! First post here. Just finished the hwfly picofly install for my switch lite but I'm getting two green pulses break then two green pulses break then two green pulses upon bootz then goes to stock firmware. I purchased my picofly from aliexpress if that helps. Any help is really appreciated.

There's two videos, the yellow blinking is before I resolved, the green blinking is after resoldering and trying to fix it, which is the one that is most current
 

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Schmallus

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Hey :)

Unfortunately, I desoldered the resistor when trying to install picofly.

Does anyone know the value?

Thank you and best regards

Pascal
 

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JuGiZu

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I have switch v2 with weird problem. I installed picofly and glitch works okay but then i get error: failed to init sd card.

Tested with multiple sd card readers and sd cards and always the same error. If there is sd card installed it stays on switch logo. If i remove sd card it boots normally.

I checked the connector with microscope and it's good. Also checked pins with multimeter when the sd card reader was in place and it was ok.

Any suggestions what to check next?

The problem was that there was no 3.3v in the sd card socket. Runned jumper wire from the back of the board and it can read sd cards now without problems. But is this viable solution?

Edit: Well it does work but not without issues. Read speed is only 25MB/s.
 

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cowboy619

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Hey guys! First post here. Just finished the hwfly picofly install for my switch lite but I'm getting two green pulses break then two green pulses break then two green pulses upon bootz then goes to stock firmware. I purchased my picofly from aliexpress if that helps. Any help is really appreciated.

There's two videos, the yellow blinking is before I resolved, the green blinking is after resoldering and trying to fix it, which is the one that is most current
check sp2 - doesnt look connected - whats the diode readings?
 

JuGiZu

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That is really not that bad considering Nintendo's drivers.
Even with optimized Linux drivers, the read speeds are about 40MB/s according to the Tegra specs.

Well, I tested with Breath of the Wild and I did not see any slowdowns or really long loading times so I guess it's not that bad like you said.

I bought the console as used and it was opened before, it had some corrosion and there was problems with sd card before I installed picofly.

Usually the problem seems to be the connector, max77620 or both but I'm not sure in this case.
 

bf3itu

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Good morning guys! Tudo bem?

I need your help with the mosfets.

I bought 40 pieces of this model and it doesn't work.
1733489146879.png

1733489111094.png

1733489030144.png

1733488820035.png

1733488889623.png

1733489078269.png







Now I bought 10 pieces of this model, it works only as soon as it is installed. Installing just 1 does not work.👇👇👇

1733488970157.png

1733489368087.png
 

jkyoho

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Good morning guys! Tudo bem?

I need your help with the mosfets.

I bought 40 pieces of this model and it doesn't work.
View attachment 474559
View attachment 474558
View attachment 474556
View attachment 474553
View attachment 474554
View attachment 474557






Now I bought 10 pieces of this model, it works only as soon as it is installed. Installing just 1 does not work.👇👇👇

View attachment 474555
View attachment 474560
you need thick wire to connect between mosfet and CPU caps, not the gate cable being thick
 
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bf3itu

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you need thick wire to connect between mosfet and CPU caps, not the gate cable being thick
I had already used a thicker wire and had the same result. To make sure it wasn't badly soldered, I soldered the MOSFETs directly to a flat wire, installed it in the Switch and had the same result. ==*
1733500810220.png
 

linkref

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I had already used a thicker wire and had the same result. To make sure it wasn't badly soldered, I soldered the MOSFETs directly to a flat wire, installed it in the Switch and had the same result. ==*
View attachment 474585
Dude i ran into the EXACT same problem, I am pretty sure that the CPU point is the second pin started from the bottom but i have ==* error too.

To make sure this is not my fault, i replaced by an rp2040 tiny and it worked perfectly,
So I assume i did not solder the cpu point to the correct pin on the lite chip model....

Are we sure where the cpu point is located on the lite modchip ??
 

bf3itu

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Dude i ran into the EXACT same problem, I am pretty sure that the CPU point is the second pin started from the bottom but i have ==* error too.

To make sure this is not my fault, i replaced by an rp2040 tiny and it worked perfectly,
So I assume i did not solder the cpu point to the correct pin on the lite chip model....

Are we sure where the cpu point is located on the lite modchip ??
1733506970239.png

1733506996134.png
 

lightninjay

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I was always under the impression that it was the two center pins of the cable, as those are the ones that are soldered to on the cable-side when coming off the mosfet cable when stringing a single wire over to an RP2040-Tiny's CPU pin. So it's possible you've just chosen the wrong pin on the board and the wire just needs to move up one to pin 3, or bridge pins 3 and 4 with the wire.
 

bf3itu

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I was always under the impression that it was the two center pins of the cable, as those are the ones that are soldered to on the cable-side when coming off the mosfet cable when stringing a single wire over to an RP2040-Tiny's CPU pin. So it's possible you've just chosen the wrong pin on the board and the wire just needs to move up one to pin 3, or bridge pins 3 and 4 with the wire.
Pins three and four are interconnected. So it doesn't matter which one you connect. I checked it with a digital microscope and checked it with a multimeter.
 

lightninjay

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Pins three and four are interconnected. So it doesn't matter which one you connect. I checked it with a digital microscope and checked it with a multimeter.
Sounds like there's something else wrong with your chip then. I would suggest doing as @linkref did and install either a RP2040-Zero or RP2040-Tiny and see if that changes anything. If it works, then it is definitely an issue with your original chip.

 

LuigiGad

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A strange thing happens to me with this OLED.
DAT0 with kamikaze
RP2040-ZERO 47/47/47
2.80 rehius
all in perfect working order.
semistock---ok
full-stock (reboot-ofw)---ok
emummc---ok
bypass modchip (vol+) + (vol-) and power ---- error *== black screen
Why this thing?
 
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linkref

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Hi,

I modded an erista with a picofly 47/47/47 ==> OFW won't boot (emmc slow mode) ==> made a 100/100/47ohm ==> emmc no more in slower mode ==> But now OFW wont boot and emuNand won't pass nintendo logo...

Is my console fried ?
 

deeps

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Hi,

I modded an erista with a picofly 47/47/47 ==> OFW won't boot (emmc slow mode) ==> made a 100/100/47ohm ==> emmc no more in slower mode ==> But now OFW wont boot and emuNand won't pass nintendo logo...

Is my console fried ?

Did the emummc boot before?
 

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