Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

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Thanks for mentioning that site!
A lot of info I have never seen on other sites.
Those online board views are also handy. I'd wish someone would make one of the OLED.
http://balika011.hu/switch/
Oled is in there too:
http://balika011.hu/switch/oled

This is also good:
https://files.zzattack.org/index.php?dir=img/console/switch
Reference:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10268147

At one point i also subscribe the xzz, and with some ninja skills i download their switch file.
Unfortunately their file using custom format. I try to reverse engineer, but only get part of it. Which is only could draw the outline of the pcb. I don't have time to continue the reverse engineer.
c.png


Here is the xzz file for switch i got from their server:
https://file.io/h5VWDAZvrDw4
 
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lightautodark

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Sometimes saving a few pennies gets me as well.
A dollar extra for a Waveshare is well spend.
It worked just like the real waveshare unit except there's no waveshare logo at the back. Even the LED indicator works without removing the resistor.

Btw, does the v1 flex with single mosfet work on v2/lite/oled? I've seen picture of it somewhere in the forum. where do I have to cut to make it fit?
 

Endracion

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And I'm back with another diagnosis problem. An OLED came back because it wouldn't go into hekate anymore, it would do the short long long, which is *== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU) but it boots into OFW, just skips the chip.

So I checked the DAT0, reads 0.8 fine, then I swapped the mosfet out, still the same error, I resoldered and shortened CMD, still no go. At this point all I'm left with is CLK, but it's under resin, so it's kind of a pain to get to, but if that's what it likely is, I won't have a choice.

I do wonder about the diode values for CLK and RST, they're the only ones not in the 0.8 range, sitting at around 1.5-1.6 which seems unusual, but I can't recall what it was at the time of install.

From searching about this error, it could be a ton of things :(
 
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abal1000x

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And I'm back with another diagnosis problem. An OLED came back because it wouldn't go into hekate anymore, it would do the short long long, which is *== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU) but it boots into OFW, just skips the chip.

So I checked the DAT0, reads 0.8 fine, then I swapped the mosfet out, still the same error, I resoldered and shortened CMD, still no go. At this point all I'm left with is CLK, but it's under resin, so it's kind of a pain to get to, but if that's what it likely is, I won't have a choice.

I do wonder about the diode values for CLK and RST, they're the only ones not in the 0.8 range, sitting at around 1.5-1.6 which seems unusual, but I can't recall what it was at the time of install.

From searching about this error, it could be a ton of things :(
AFAIK cmd1 is some sanity check, picofly will put the payload on to the emmc (white light), then check if its in there everytime picofly booted, then check the cmd1 bytes response are send on the dat0 after that.

So if the supposed cmd1 is not send. It could be the cpu halted somehow. But you said, the ofw is running fine.
So the dat0 reading is at fault.
My hunch says that you use flex method. And the flex need to reattach.
For me, the diode mode read value on dat0 cannot be used as reference.
I've also experience those error, even though the read value correct.
Hence using emmc pcb adapter.
 
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Endracion

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AFAIK cmd1 is some sanity check, picofly will put the payload on to the emmc (white light), then check if its in there everytime picofly booted, then check the cmd1 bytes response are send on the dat0 after that.

So if the supposed cmd1 is not send. It could be the cpu halted somehow. But you said, the ofw is running fine.
So the dat0 reading is at fault.
My hunch says that you use flex method. And the flex need to reattach.
For me, the diode mode read value on dat0 cannot be used as reference.
I've also experience those error, even though the read value correct.
Hence using emmc pcb adapter.
Well I reinstalled the adapter, although if the values can't be trusted, I'm not sure what to do next, the adapter is all I have access to right now anyway and it had been working before too.

It's interesting to know that even though the error suggests it's something else that it's indeed still the DAT0, which is always my first thought too. I appreciated the large amount of knowledge you've amassed on this subject.
 

lightautodark

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Well I reinstalled the adapter, although if the values can't be trusted, I'm not sure what to do next, the adapter is all I have access to right now anyway and it had been working before too.

It's interesting to know that even though the error suggests it's something else that it's indeed still the DAT0, which is always my first thought too. I appreciated the large amount of knowledge you've amassed on this subject.
Perhaps try to reseat/redo your dat0 again with a new dat0 adapter?
 

Endracion

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Perhaps try to reseat/redo your dat0 again with a new dat0 adapter?
Darn, I just tried with a new adapter and it's still the same, I'm not looking forward trying to removing the resin from the CLK to see if that's the issue now... I'm not sure what else to attempt other than resoldering from zero. I have the 100/100/47 Ohm resistors on the Zero too.

EDIT:
Well I'm back to report that with courage in hand, I removed the resin off the CLK and redid the connection. It now reads a normal ~0.8 and the console was able to boot into hekate. So it was indeed CLK the whole time, although I did redo the Dat0 and Mosfet as well for good measure but they didn't fix it.

Thanks for the help nonetheless!
 
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lightautodark

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Darn, I just tried with a new adapter and it's still the same, I'm not looking forward trying to removing the resin from the CLK to see if that's the issue now... I'm not sure what else to attempt other than resoldering from zero. I have the 100/100/47 Ohm resistors on the Zero too.

EDIT:
Well I'm back to report that with courage in hand, I removed the resin off the CLK and redid the connection. It now reads a normal ~0.8 and the console was able to boot into hekate. So it was indeed CLK the whole time, although I did redo the Dat0 and Mosfet as well for good measure but they didn't fix it.

Thanks for the help nonetheless!
Leave the clk without solder mask/resin this time!
 

thepussyvanished

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WELP.
The Rentry guide got struck down by Nintendo and now the Wayback Machine got struck down too.

Any other place where the Rentry guide been archived? Or anyone got a good guide for setting up Incognito mode so I don't get banned?
 

abal1000x

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WELP.
The Rentry guide got struck down by Nintendo and now the Wayback Machine got struck down too.

Any other place where the Rentry guide been archived? Or anyone got a good guide for setting up Incognito mode so I don't get banned?
2023 archived
 

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thepussyvanished

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Screenshot 2024-10-12 151155.png
Wait so if I already have Hekate installed, what do I do? Do I skip step 3?
Also I made a backup and moved it onto my deskstop, deleting the backup off the SD card. Is that good? Or should I have kept it on the card?
 

abal1000x

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View attachment 464297
Wait so if I already have Hekate installed, what do I do? Do I skip step 3?
Also I made a backup and moved it onto my deskstop, deleting the backup off the SD card. Is that good? Or should I have kept it on the card?
If you new on this. Read all the guide first, to understand a gist about it.
Then ask in here for something that you still don't understand or need confirmation.

It seems you already have a working sdcard.
First backup the whole content of your sdcard to desktop, before you do something on it.
 

naldo29

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A friend of mine came in saying that their console wouldnt turn on after i did the oled instalation for them after 3 days of usage. I completly removed the mod and soon notice that the chip next to the 3.3v is overheating MAX7780 1EWP. I replaced it multiple times asuring that i did it properly and the issue still persistsI completly removed the mod, any help? Thanks!
cNQgn6M.jpeg
 

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abal1000x

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A friend of mine came in saying that their console wouldnt turn on after i did the oled instalation for them after 3 days of usage. I completly removed the mod and soon notice that the chip next to the 3.3v is overheating MAX7780 1EWP. I replaced it multiple times asuring that i did it properly and the issue still persistsI completly removed the mod, any help? Thanks!View attachment 464401
photo_2024-10-13 17.18.57.jpeg

Check also that big inductor for shorting the gnd (gray color)
 
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naldo29

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checked it all, these capacitors are shorted, when i removed again the 1EWP chip to see if it was just a bad job done it turns out it wasnt the culprit either, its still shorted after removing the chip. What could it be thats shorting the 3.3v line?
1728840025165.png
 

abal1000x

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checked it all, these capacitors are shorted, when i removed again the 1EWP chip to see if it was just a bad job done it turns out it wasnt the culprit either, its still shorted after removing the chip. What could it be thats shorting the 3.3v line?View attachment 464482
Do you mean the 3.3V cap is shorted with the GND? (Both pad are shorted?)

If if its, where do you use your 3.3V for your previous picofly installation?
 
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abal1000x

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yeah, the the cap is grounded on both sides.

I grab my 3.3v from the bottom of the cap always.
Thats tiring job to trace wheres the short is.
If you have thermal camera, it might help.

aa.png

bb.png
The bright green is where the 3.3V connected front and back pcb.
Basically need to check each component connected.

My hunch its the cap which you previously interact with, the 3.3v line to the picofly.
Might take it off, to test wheter the short still happened or not.
 
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naldo29

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FINALLY THE SHORT IS GONEEEEE. yea it was the cap somehow. now, here comes the hard part tho. The do you think the 1EWP chip still works? or would i need to get new ones.
Post automatically merged:

it was a bad 3.3v capacitor this whole time.... all this time spent when it was a bad cap lol. I got a spare v1 that i use as donor. You know where i could get that cap thats missing from that console?
 
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abal1000x

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FINALLY THE SHORT IS GONEEEEE. yea it was the cap somehow. now, here comes the hard part tho. The do you think the 1EWP chip still works? or would i need to get new ones.
Post automatically merged:

it was a bad 3.3v capacitor this whole time.... all this time spent when it was a bad cap lol. I got a spare v1 that i use as donor. You know where i could get that cap thats missing from that console?
Don't know about the 1EWP condition, it might still works.

Someone has measured the oled component. Basically its similar to v2, its 15uF
dd.png


In V1 it should be
ee.png
 
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