Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

lightautodark

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Hi,

I am very lost, it's the first time I see this issue. On switch lite, i have 1 of 10 times the *== (short long long) error....
I am used to this on OLEDS ==> i fix this by switching to an instinct-nx...

On the lite i've tried two rp2040, and now with a tiny the problem is still there.

Here are my readings and some pictures of the installation.

3v3 : 7,75
d0 (c) : 5.25
cmd (a) : 6,62
clk (d) : 6,68
rst (b) : 12,14
cpu : 5.59
Could there be any short? Maybe try insulated wire instead of bare enamel wire. Also the back of tiny try protect it with kapton tape so it doesn't short against the cpu cover.

Don't know what else to suggest tbh.
 
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Tom8823

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Mostly depends on the chip. Which value resistors does it have on board? I'd aim for a total of 100 ohm on DAT0, same on CMD, and 47 ohm on CLK.

So what you are saying is that on Mariko 100/100/47 combination should work no matter what?
Because for me it works only once. I will try to investigate. Before installing new chip I will try to replace my wires because I used 30 AWG enamel on all points including 3V and ground.

Can I please have a list of diode readings on all points to measure? I will check my console.

Also should I measure those points with battery connected or disconnected?
 

lightautodark

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So what you are saying is that on Mariko 100/100/47 combination should work no matter what?
Because for me it works only once. I will try to investigate. Before installing new chip I will try to replace my wires because I used 30 AWG enamel on all points including 3V and ground.

Can I please have a list of diode readings on all points to measure? I will check my console.

Also should I measure those points with battery connected or disconnected?
Disconnected
 

Tom8823

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Thanks to everyone involved for help.
I think my issue should be gone now. Since it wasn't easy to recreate it (because it was happening months or weeks apart) I decided to fix it until combination of 100/100/47 works. And I managed to do that.

I replaced ground and 3V wires for a little bit thicker wires. I left enameled wires only on data points but 3v and ground I used standard copper wire. Before console with 100 ohm resistor on cmd would start only once and wouldn't start anymore (also no led light on chip). Now after this work it starts each time with instant glitch.

I hope that means my console won't be having issues with booting after some time now.
 

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👍
 

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lightautodark

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probably to save time. I would go one step further by using pre-made flex for the whole thing. It's only 2 dollars more but saves a lot of time. roughly $2-3 with the above installation, full flex is $4-5. time is worth more than $2
 
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Nephiel

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probably to save time. I would go one step further by using pre-made flex for the whole thing. It's only 2 dollars more but saves a lot of time. roughly $2-3 with the above installation, full flex is $4-5. time is worth more than $2
Not for boards like Waveshare Zero or Tiny, because you'd still need to wire each point to the flex anyway.

Complete RP2040-clone boards are faster to install, but vary wildly in quality, you can never be sure which resistors they come with.

Mosfet flex is the middle ground, it does save time and only needs 1 wire. Quality still varies, but it is a simple part, enough that defects are rare.
 
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lightautodark

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Not for boards like Waveshare Zero or Tiny, because you'd still need to wire each point to the flex anyway.

Complete RP2040-clone boards are faster to install, but vary wildly in quality, you can never be sure which resistors they come with.

Mosfet flex is the middle ground, it does save time and only needs 1 wire. Quality still varies, but it is a simple part, enough that defects are rare.
Totally worth using redesigned/clone chip made by Chinese/Taiwanese/Hongkong designer or even tinyfly (Philippines designer?). Save time. They're refundable too if there's quality issue. If the resistor values are wrong then change them. You have to install your own resistors in tiny and zero anyway.
 

Danook28

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Is it normal if the mb installing for goldtree nsp slow 4 mb some time up up to 33 mb. Is it sd card or some point is need wier cut to be short or resolder. Cfw working. Games working.. Glitch to cfw so fast. ((Nintendo Switch lite)) use hardisk.
 
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linkref

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Hello, replaced d0 and CMD with 100ohm resistors, still have *== error sometimes....
I do not know what to do really

I have this on a lot of switch recently, maybe chips that i've buy(rp2040 hwfly from ali) are from a faulty parcel... ?

What make me think it's weir, it's like with an original rp2040 1.1 from waveshare i have the same error....

EDIT : The unit whith that issue is an OLED samsung 2021 emmc, i was several issues like that in the board... :'(

Hi, so i had to many issues recently so i started to blame my chips. But even after replacing chips I had the same problem. I corrected the resistances to 47/100/100 and this did not help.
But the OLED unit SAMSUNG 2021 was misleading me. Thoses eMMC are known to work better with Instinct-NX (I saw several posts about that on the forum). Despite everything i've done.

BUT

For the other units, my chips were the problem... Chinese clones come with 47/47 and 240 on dat0 !!??!!
My question is why do that ? After doing 47/100/100 it's much better.
 

lightautodark

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Hi, so i had to many issues recently so i started to blame my chips. But even after replacing chips I had the same problem. I corrected the resistances to 47/100/100 and this did not help.
But the OLED unit SAMSUNG 2021 was misleading me. Thoses eMMC are known to work better with Instinct-NX (I saw several posts about that on the forum). Despite everything i've done.

BUT

For the other units, my chips were the problem... Chinese clones come with 47/47 and 240 on dat0 !!??!!
My question is why do that ? After doing 47/100/100 it's much better.
So far 47 47 47, 100 100 47, 47 47 240 all work for me personally. 47 47 47 sometimes doesn't allow boot into ofw but none of these resistor values have failed to glitch. as for why 47 47 240 on redesigned board, I'm sure they have their reasons. Surely after so many revisions and so many years, they must have learnt something? Funnily enough, chinese installers themselves do not recommend or use instinct and prefers rp2040 based chip.
 

thesjaakspoiler

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Is it normal if the mb installing for goldtree nsp slow 4 mb some time up up to 33 mb. Is it sd card or some point is need wier cut to be short or resolder. Cfw working. Games working.. Glitch to cfw so fast. ((Nintendo Switch lite)) use hardisk.
I notice the same thing while doing direct file transfers to the Switch to my cheapass SD card.
In the beginning it's really slow sometimes but then it picks up speed.
It might just be how the SD card handles these large volumes and is looking for free space on a fragmented SD card.

Other possibility might be your PC doing other stuff during the file transfer.
If you use a USB hub, then it might be other devices communicating over the USB hub.
But I don't think this is something to worry about.
 
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CarlosCruz

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can I ask why you use 47ohms instead of 100/100/47? also you are clearly skilled enough to do the kamikaze, why use the ribbon for the mosfets instead of the back of the board single mosfet install? I'm not criticizing, just a curiosity on my part.
I tried the rear mosfets a long time ago and I discarded them due to the loss of time I had to finish and they won't work, I'm going with the foolproof and safe, flex in CPU with two mosfets that always works.

I didn't try any other way to put different resistance measurements. They always work well..

I did rear kamikaze, then reballing with the @abal1000x adapter and I'm left with front kamikaze.

I came to the conclusion that working like this is the best way for me. I minimize all possible risks, I only disconnect the power connector and have maximum respect for the device.

The time spent is not a problem. I don't care if it takes three hours or whatever it takes.

And I'm keeping an eye on the forum in case one day @vulp_vibes explain how to put the chip status LED on the right Joycon so I can do it at the OLED I finish. It would be amazing to finish them with all that level of detail.

Kamikaze method for me is an infallible method. I stopped reballing one day thinking I controlled it well, under the gun I burned a Toshiba nand that is half the thickness of a Samsung or hkynix and I had to buy a new OLED. The next thing I want to do is improve the drilling by changing the polishing tools I have and the technique used to achieve this level of accuracy:
 

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jkyoho

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I tried the rear mosfets a long time ago and I discarded them due to the loss of time I had to finish and they won't work, I'm going with the foolproof and safe, flex in CPU with two mosfets that always works.

I didn't try any other way to put different resistance measurements. They always work well..

I did rear kamikaze, then reballing with the @abal1000x adapter and I'm left with front kamikaze.

I came to the conclusion that working like this is the best way for me. I minimize all possible risks, I only disconnect the power connector and have maximum respect for the device.

The time spent is not a problem. I don't care if it takes three hours or whatever it takes.

And I'm keeping an eye on the forum in case one day @vulp_vibes explain how to put the chip status LED on the right Joycon so I can do it at the OLED I finish. It would be amazing to finish them with all that level of detail.

Kamikaze method for me is an infallible method. I stopped reballing one day thinking I controlled it well, under the gun I burned a Toshiba nand that is half the thickness of a Samsung or hkynix and I had to buy a new OLED. The next thing I want to do is improve the drilling by changing the polishing tools I have and the technique used to achieve this level of accuracy:
those flawless grinding required desktop drill press or custom made ball type grinding head.
 
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linuxares

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Abal1000x done an adapter for Kamikaze? I know he made a PCB printable emmc adapter but not seen a "kamikaze" one.
 

lightautodark

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this was from 2 months ago, haven't really taken any new picture. This was done using 0.3mm grinding head.

I could do smaller than that but my poor soldering skill and soldering tip makes it really difficult when it comes to soldering a wire onto it, which results in my *== error. If I do this for a living I might invest in a JBC tip. :unsure:
 

CarlosCruz

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those flawless grinding required desktop drill press or custom made ball type grinding head.
Post automatically merged:

Abal1000x done an adapter for Kamikaze? I know he made a PCB printable emmc adapter but not seen a "kamikaze" one.
PCB adapter for nand
 

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