Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[linkref]

Yes, they are. Only GRD and VCC are masked. Just strip it a little bit and you get the pad to solder it. If you use a multimeter in diode mode you would find it by yourself easy.

Thanks I found all points. Except VCC... Do you know where I can strip to expose it... Sorry I'm completely blind....

 

[lowmist]

Hi everyone, I successfully installed the rp2040 mod chip (similar format as HWFLY) into my switch and one month later it stopped working. At that point, the chip would light blue till it turned off without booting into Hekate. After that, I tried to fix it by reinstalling Hekate und Atmosphere into my SD, and the error code changed to two yellow short pulses (** RST is not connected).

I assumed that the chip was faulty, and I installed a new rp2040 mod chip from scratch, checked the solders and I booted Hekate. Then I restore the eMMC BOOT & BOOT1 successfully and while I was restoring the eMMC RAW GPP the switch turned off. Afterwards it would not boot anymore to Hekate. Now when I try to boot the switch to Hekate I see two yellow short pulses (** RST is not connected) as before and won’t turn on. Still if I try to turn it on without the SD, it boots to the normal Nintendo System. My assumption is that I corrupted again somehow the mod chip.

Do you have any troubleshooting ideas?

Here is the rp2040 mod chip that I'm using.

 

[malgamer]

Hi everyone, I successfully installed the rp2040 mod chip (similar format as HWFLY) into my switch and one month later it stopped working. At that point, the chip would light blue till it turned off without booting into Hekate. After that, I tried to fix it by reinstalling Hekate und Atmosphere into my SD, and the error code changed to two yellow short pulses (** RST is not connected).

I assumed that the chip was faulty, and I installed a new rp2040 mod chip from scratch, checked the solders and I booted Hekate. Then I restore the eMMC BOOT & BOOT1 successfully and while I was restoring the eMMC RAW GPP the switch turned off. Afterwards it would not boot anymore to Hekate. Now when I try to boot the switch to Hekate I see two yellow short pulses (** RST is not connected) as before and won’t turn on. Still if I try to turn it on without the SD, it boots to the normal Nintendo System. My assumption is that I corrupted again somehow the mod chip.

Do you have any troubleshooting ideas?

Here is the rp2040 mod chip that I'm using.
View attachment 452054

remove modchip and try to power on please dont forget to put emmc back to the place

 

[lowmist]

remove modchip and try to power on please dont forget to put emmc back to the place

It works as usual booting the original system

 

[malgamer]

It works as usual booting the original system

replace modchiop then

 

[bvang913]

It works as usual booting the original system

If I'm not mistaken, I believe some of those clone chips have wrong value of resistors which can cause it not to glitch. I believe I saw one chip in this thread had 240ohms which may be too high. Check that and replace if needed.

 

[JaRocker]

@vulp_vibes I think I come up with the idea to fix joycon issue with the JRST signal mod.

Spoiler: Long story:

I initially added 47ohm resistor on DI to see if any change, it did make non-LED mod joycon intermittently recognize when in handheld. So I went with 1k ohm, still not much difference on NON-LED mod JC. On the other hand, LED-MOD JC wont recognize in handheld mode or even wireless mode(didn't try manual rest). It will only recognize when JRST wire remove.
At this point I'm pretty sure is the JRST wire having interference when connect to rp2040 LED DI point. I suddenly came up an idea using capacitor to carry the DI signal through JRST, since it's analog signal the capacitor would also stop DC interference, just like HDMI circuit does around other console. And BANG-ON, 0.1uf 0201 CAP I normally use on PS5 HDMI port PIN18 did the trick!

Short story version: ADD 0.1uF cap between DI and JRST/pin6!!!
View attachment 381193

I've tested it, glitching LED light signal works and handheld connection no issue so far, Let me know if your side have same result.

--Small update: if you have experiencing right JC handheld works(with 0.1uF cap on DI) but dis-attached wireless mode couldn't find JC, try go into setting: Controllers & sensors--->disconnect controller, press X to disconnect all controller then re-attach LED-mod JC into the rail, this should fix the bug. I had this happened after I added 0.1uF cap in CFW, but OFW works.

Hey I’m trying to do this mod on my oled switch but I’m running into a bit of problem, the RBG only display green on the last glitch, it displayed the entire glitching process when I’m not using the capacitor, I’m currently using, a 0.1UF 10V X5R 0201

 

[rull_bull]

Hi everyone, I successfully installed the rp2040 mod chip (similar format as HWFLY) into my switch and one month later it stopped working. At that point, the chip would light blue till it turned off without booting into Hekate. After that, I tried to fix it by reinstalling Hekate und Atmosphere into my SD, and the error code changed to two yellow short pulses (** RST is not connected).

I assumed that the chip was faulty, and I installed a new rp2040 mod chip from scratch, checked the solders and I booted Hekate. Then I restore the eMMC BOOT & BOOT1 successfully and while I was restoring the eMMC RAW GPP the switch turned off. Afterwards it would not boot anymore to Hekate. Now when I try to boot the switch to Hekate I see two yellow short pulses (** RST is not connected) as before and won’t turn on. Still if I try to turn it on without the SD, it boots to the normal Nintendo System. My assumption is that I corrupted again somehow the mod chip.

Do you have any troubleshooting ideas?

Here is the rp2040 mod chip that I'm using.
View attachment 452054

Show us pics of your soldering/install, if 2 of your modchips stopped working i would say that there is something wrong with your soldering/install. A blob of solder, cold solder joint, shorting something etc.

Without pics it’s just guess work.

 

[linkref]

Does someone know where i can find a 4.7ohm resistor on a classic switch donor board ? it's for fixing the pink screen of death on an OLED

EDIT : found it here : https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-oled-missing-the-cmd-capacitor.603541/page-3

 

[lightautodark]

Hi, wonder if anyone can help.

1 out 10 times my switch oled will boot into ofw. Error code is **=

My dat0 is kamikazed.

What could be causing this? Bad chip?

 

[linkref]

Hi, wonder if anyone can help.

1 out 10 times my switch oled will boot into ofw. Error code is **=

My dat0 is kamikazed.

What could be causing this? Bad chip?

Is you nand samsung from 2021 ? (you can check that info in hekate --> emmc info)

 

[lightautodark]

Is you nand samsung from 2021 ? (you can check that info in hekate --> emmc info)

No it's a sk hynix. Is this a known issue?

 

[linkref]

No it's a sk hynix. Is this a known issue?

I had this issue with samsung nand before... Instinct nx solved the problem.
If you use pre-assembled boards from aliexpress, check resistors value on nand points may be ?

 

[malgamer]

No it's a sk hynix. Is this a known issue?

who did the kamaikaze? maybe dat0 connection dropped

 

[snaker]

Hi, wonder if anyone can help.

1 out 10 times my switch oled will boot into ofw. Error code is **=

My dat0 is kamikazed.

What could be causing this? Bad chip?

This happened to me once or twice with certain flex cables that came as a kit. If you use a flex cable for points gnd,3v,dat0,cmd,clk,rst,cpu then disgard it and use regular wires.

 

[lightautodark]

This happened to me once or twice with certain flex cables that came as a kit. If you use a flex cable for points gnd,3v,dat0,cmd,clk,rst,cpu then disgard it and use regular wires.

already using 36 awg wires as i thought the flex was the problem.

who did the kamaikaze? maybe dat0 connection dropped

I did the kamikaze. I can't see any dat0 connection dropped, it's soldered on properly and the surrounding is soldered mask to avoid grounding as well.

 

[snaker]

already using 36 awg wires as i thought the flex was the problem.

I did the kamikaze. I can't see any dat0 connection dropped, it's soldered on properly and the surrounding is soldered mask to avoid grounding as well.

This is a bad communication error between the chip and the console. I would first recheck the wire lengths, solderind integrity and the routing of the wires and then change the chip.Also use the 2.75 firmware as i find it the most stable i have used after many consoles.

 

[linkref]

already using 36 awg wires as i thought the flex was the problem.

I did the kamikaze. I can't see any dat0 connection dropped, it's soldered on properly and the surrounding is soldered mask to avoid grounding as well.

Do you have a picture of your chip ? Or at least it's model ?

This is a bad communication error between the chip and the console. I would first recheck the wire lengths, solderind integrity and the routing of the wires and then change the chip.Also use the 2.75 firmware as i find it the most stable i have used after many consoles.

Where can you find the 2.75 ? I thought the 2.73 was the last stable version

 

[snaker]

https://github.com/rehius/usk/releases/tag/PicoFly_2.75_2023.09.09_08-16

Never forget THE man!

 

[linkref]

https://github.com/rehius/usk/releases/tag/PicoFly_2.75_2023.09.09_08-16

Never forget THE man!

thx but i thing i'll stay on 2.73, it's very stable