Tutorial  Updated

OLED HWFLY Success! Be careful with that LCD Connector, How I replaced mine.

I've finally managed to get my OLED Switch modded and up and running.
I'm not really going to be going over the modchip installation as it's covered quite well in Sthetix's video here

The thing I'd recommend doing differently is that you don't need to cut the emmc shielding. You can just slide it in if you get the right angle like so.

I'd also recommend using the alt 3.3v cap here (bottom of the cap)
Those Oled kits are a rip off by the way, just get a lite chip, dat0 adapter and wire it up. Don't spend an extra $40 on a flex cable unless you don't mind burning money.

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The main point of this post is BE FUCKIN CAREFUL WITH THAT LCD CONNECTOR
If it's not perfectly aligned you'll likely bend the pins internally and / or the white tab will pop right off when you try to secure it.
Once that happens, it's GG and you'll need to replace the lcd connector.
For me, replacing the lcd connector was significantly more difficult then the mod chip install.
Here's how I approached it.
350c hot air to remove the original connector. Make sure to insulate as much as you can that's not the connector as you can especially the port that the sd card board plugs into.
I wicked the pads clean and tinned with low melt solder paste.
Flux it up, align the new connector and hit it with hot air at 175 - 200c medium airflow.
Once the solder gets molten bump up your airflow to max and press the new connector in the center with your tweasers.
You should see the legs of the new connector get tinned from the solder on the pads.
Remove the air when you feel good about it and keep holding the connector with your tweasers for a bit longer than your used to as low melt solder stays molten longer.
Test each pin to make sure you have a good connection with your tweasers, If it's not connected you'll be able to feel it.
I went back and added some proper leaded solder with my Jtip to each pin individually. It's not very that difficult when the connector is properly locked in.
That did the trick for me.

Ideally, don't fuck up you LCD connector but....
If you do it's manageable with a cheap hot air station, low melt solder, good flux, tweasers, scope, patience, and a steady hand.
Super stoked to have pulled this off. Was pretty bummed when that connector went belly up on me but I'm happy with the learning experience.
-Modz




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Just posted a video on the OLED install here
 
Last edited by Modzvilleusa,

weatMod

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That $90 listing you speak of actually is the new Oled revision that's designed for these Oleds.
Don't get the overpriced ones that are just lite chips with v3 cables.
View attachment 291855
wow ,I wonder why the chip for the Oled is selling for like $60 less than the core and lite
I wonder if the core and lite chips will come down now too
or maybe the Oled is made by someone else?
Also I wonder if someone wanted to save $60 if they could adapt the Oled chip to work in a core or lite

if the Oled is being made by someone else maybe thy will start making core and lites too for cheaper?
 
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urherenow

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@Modzvilleusa for the lazy, do you think you could provide links (shopping list) to all of the materials used? Specifically, I don't have whatever tool was used to scratch off one of the solder points, the solder mask, UV light, or the tape that was used. Actually, not sure I have any heat paste that isn't outdated (last time I used any was building my current PC, which has an i7 4790 in it...). Oh, and most importantly, the wire.
 

doom95

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Good job on completing the mod, and nice that you got the replacement LCD connector working. But you can clearly see it has already taken a lot of heat. I don't agree with the used technique at all.

Removing the original connector at 350°C is Russian roulette for the game card reader right next to it. The low-melt you have should have been used to remove the original connector. Mix with leaded, then wick, then mix with low-melt. Then you can use e.g. 150°C to remove the connector. Keep in mind that these connectors were soldered in an oven with a lead-free process, so they should be able to withstand 200°C, but certainly not >300°C!
Anyway, no biggie since this connector is thrashed anyway, but if you ever want to remove a good connector from a donor, this is the way.

Then for soldering the new connector.. It is fine to drop some connectors onto molten solder pads like that, but only metal ones like USB or HDMI. Certainly not plastic ones! The process you should follow is to clean the pads, add leaded solder to one of the anchors. Use soldering iron to turn anchor blob liquid, then use tweezers to properly align the connector, then use leaded for all the pins with a precise tip. Done. If possible do it without additional flux (besides what's in the solder wire core), without drag soldering and in 1 go. If using flux, clean properly. Flux gets sticky, don't want that near your connector/cables.

Low-melt solder is NOT to be used for attaching new connectors. It's even more brittle than lead-free and can melt at temps as low as 57°C! Use leaded.
 

BeckysFootSlave

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you're out of luck, they're starting to get greedy and bumping up the price. RIP.

But I found it this morning!
Chip and cable (DAT0 and others (set)) for 128$ (free shipping)
Don't know if they're ok?!

But would also take the complete hwfly set for 163$ (sadly)

Just would like to know if the first one is good and if someone could recommend a good one!
 

gokuz

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But I found it this morning!
Chip and cable (DAT0 and others (set)) for 128$ (free shipping)
Don't know if they're ok?!

But would also take the complete hwfly set for 163$ (sadly)

Just would like to know if the first one is good and if someone could recommend a good one!
yea they're slowly increasing the price. it was only $90 EVERYWHERE a few days ago. I bet it will get back to "normal" price by next week.
 

ucupetuks

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its happen with my lite, i sent to repair store, cus replacing socket is really hard and there is chance destroy pin point in pcb
 

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