OLD Xbox 360 washer placement...

Discussion in 'Xbox 360 - Games & Content' started by DarkWay, Aug 31, 2010.

Aug 31, 2010
  1. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Hey tempers!

    Basically I need the help of someone who's repaired 360's on a regular basis.
    I'm attempting to ressurect my OLD xbox 360 and possibly JTAG it or something (if I can).
    now the actual repairs I can handle the problem lies with the placement of the orignal washers underneath the motherboard of the 360 -_- yeah you got it when I detached the motherboard they went EVERYWHERE!

    I've got all of them now sitting on my workspace but I haven't the fogiest idea where or what order they go in and they're are 2 different types of washer 1 of them is metal the tehr is kind of cardboardy (excuse my lack of technical terminology).

    If anyone could do me a favour and enlighten me on where these washers go I'd greatly appreciate it!

    Thanks in advance tempers!!
     
  2. raulpica

    Supervisor raulpica With your drill, thrust to the sky!

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    Never used washers, nor I know what kit were you using (I have the feeling that it's some kind of "RROD repair kit"), but usually washers go where the old X-Clamps were or either under the RAM chips on the lower side.
     
  3. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    I actually just after postin gthis found the answer, on each screw you need 3 steel washers and 1 nylon washer. xD and yes it's an RROD fix I'm just replacing the heatsinkat the moment
     
  4. mocalacace

    Member mocalacace GBAtemp Fan

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    I have fixed many 360's with the red ring of death, and I have jtagged 4. If you would like me to fix it and jtag it (if it is jtagable) I could do it for you.

    You can message the people I have done it for on Xbox Live (I'm sure they wouldn't mind if you did)
    GT:

    Mikeizzle 09 (mikeizzle (space) 09)

    xDTx Wolverine (xDTx (space) wolverine

    JR33V3
     
  5. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Thank you for the offer, but fixing something this simple is no problem for me. The xbox itself is now up running and fixed, I was thinking about JTagging it but I have to look more into it first to see what needs to be done.


    EDIT:-

    Ick JTagging = soldering more trouble than it's worth tbh (I have no troubles with soldering, I just can't be arsed to do it).
     
  6. mocalacace

    Member mocalacace GBAtemp Fan

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    Well if it is jtagable I could do it, just hit me up with a PM
     
  7. overlord00

    Member overlord00 A motherfucking birdplane

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    it actually _IS_ worth it. I totally had no experience in soldering and managed to do my own, then some other peoples too.
    now can play games from external hdd (without discs), emulators, homebrew etc

    its very nice [​IMG]
     
  8. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    You have any idea how much it would cost to ship a console to the US and back?

    Too much.

    I've only Jtagged the one falcon console, but it seemed easy enough that almost anyone could do it.
     
  9. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Oh no don't get me wrong it really doesn't seem that difficult at all.

    If anything the only problems doing the JTAG I would have would be getting the materials and a computer to do the hack (I'm on a laptop and the other computers in the house aren't mine and one is an expensive computer and the other is virused to shit because it's my mothers [​IMG])and as for the materials part the only object would be money (I basically have none).

    EDIT:- anpther thing is I have a Xenon (no HDMI) so it "should" definately be JTAGABLE but the dashboard it's on is 2.0.7371.0

    now I don't know much about JTAGGING if I'm honest but does the dashboard have any effects on whether a 360 is JTAGABLE?
     
  10. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    The only real issue i've had is with nandpro, it refuses to write to a virtual nand (ie one on your harddisk) from googling some have the issue while some don't. Luckily my bad block was at 250 and not in the first 50.

    Otherwise you can get the diodes, resisters and DB25 for under a fiver.

    The big issue is with the LPT port. Because i'm older, I had an old PC in the loft which had an LPT port. Otherwise it's £25+ for a USB flasher.

    You should be fine with that dash on a Xenon, and it's easier to Jtag a Xenon too as you don't have to solder to db1f1.

    These are what I used:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

    Total price: £3.27. Possible you may also want some 330 Ohm/ 470 Ohm resisters instead of the link.
     
  11. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Everything for under a fiver seems pretty decent and managable.
    I'm almost certain we have an LPT port on the good computer (shame my laptop doesn't have one >.>) if not then I know someone who definately does have one on an old computer and I could do it round there.

    I've also just noticed my recently fixed 360 (the one for JTAGGING) doesn't startup properly.
    When I turn it on it doesn't load straight away and I have to "heat it up" abit before it will load the dashboard...what's up with that?
    After the Dashboard is up it has no trouble playing games e.c.t.

    EDIT: might it actually be better to buy one of those JTAG kits? and attach a bored to the motherboard instead of just having wires sticking out?
     
  12. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    No, just buy the bits from eBay I mentioned.

    You need to connect up the LPT, dump the first 2MB of the nand and write xellous. Then you Jtag it with the 2 diodes/ link, and from there on you can unsolder all the LPT stuff as you can use Xellous to flash/ dump the nand over USB/ CD/ HTTP.

    In the end, you'll just have the 2 diodes and a link on the motherboard.

    I have noticed sometimes takes a little longer to start up since Jtagged, so I wouldn't worry about as it will do it anyway once Jtagged.
     
  13. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Alrighty then, you mentioned 330 and 470 Ohm resisters what would I need those for?
    and what are the 100 Ohm resisters for?

    Sorry if this is all explained in any JTAG guide I just want to be certain as I only skimmed over 1 detailed guide for the general jist of what to do (I'll look more indepth once I have the required materials).
     
  14. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    You use 5 100Ohm resisters + 1 diode on the lpt cable. You use 2 more diodes for the jtag. You link 2 pins on the jtag header, if it doesn't start up then you replace it with a 100 Ohm resister, if it still doesn't work then you try a 330Ohm resister and if that doesn't work either you can try the 470Ohm resister.

    They are normally fine with just a link, but if it doesn't work it will be a pain waiting for 330/470 ohm resisters to arrive through the post.
     
  15. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Okay cool [​IMG]

    Lastly could link link me to the guide you use? I know I have a detailed guide up already but another for comparison would be nice and considering I'll be using the same if not damn similar materials as yourself, using the same guide you use would probably be more beneficial aswell [​IMG]

    Thanks for all your help Tk_saturn, sometimes it's a shame you can't +rep people here as you're a really helpful temper!
     
  16. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    I've viewed tons of guides which seem to be based on one guide and so look the same, but this seems to be the best

    https://docs.google.com/View?id=dnfmv5h_186pp2zddm

    However, as I said before I couldn't get nandpro (20e) to write to a virtual nand in these for example

    from a command prompt. While I flashed it with xellous and had a good 2MB dump, I still wanted a full 16MB dump as it was my first go at Jtagging.

    If you get an issue where nandpro doesn't read at all, try removing the diode from the lpt cable.

    The whole thing seems complicated, but once you've done it doesn't. A n00b can do it. It's pointless paying someone else to do it, they will want too much.
     
  17. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Okay cool.

    I apologise for all the questions but what will I be needing THIS for?

    Is it for plugging the LPT wires into and then plugging that into the PC? if so could you provide a diagram of where I plug the wires into on this?

    I really am sorry for these kinda stupid question I just want to make sure I get it right.

    Also even though you provided a very good guide, I've decided (after many rereads) to go with a different guide which is very updated (29th August 2010) and seems alot easier (unfortunately it's on a site that contains some warez >.> so I can't link it) but it basically has the same content in the guide just a slightly different method when it coes down to using the computer for the NAND e.t.c..

    Another question:
    The red line that links 4&7 on
    This Picture!
    What can I link that with? in other pictures I've seen people use what looks like a staple? [​IMG]
     
  18. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    A piece wire from the DB-25M header (you will remove 2 of them), or a piece of link which you will cut off the end of a diode/ resistor. If you bend that link into a U shape, then it will look like a staple.
     
  19. DarkWay
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    Member DarkWay tsubasa hiroge

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    Alright then, I guess I'll get everything ordered in the morning and hopefully (fingers crossed and with some luck) they can post it all out same day and I get it on saturday [​IMG]

    Seriously thanks for the help Tk_saturn
     
  20. tk_saturn

    Member tk_saturn GBAtemp Psycho!

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    I've ordered from both sellers as that was what I actually used, and both were pretty quick.
     

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