dont open your own .. i think i have got all the major answers .. i even got the typec male port which will work perfect with this .. will update the final results here .. thanks for helping me ..
Regards
Rahul
Nintendo switch AC adapter (needs a new typeC male port)
- Thread starter rahulkalra9
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Regards
Rahul
Hi bro,
Here is the usb typec male port that I have shortlisted (pic attached)
1)so i figured out the Ground pad on typec male(the pad is on the other side if you refer my pic) [it has continuity with pin 1 & 12]
2) i figured out the +5v pad on the typec male(the pad is on the other side if you refer my pic) [it has continuity with pin 4 and 9]
3) I figured out the sense wire pad(marked in the pic) .. and it has continuity with pin 5
So the 5 wires from my nintendo switch AC adapter connects like this:
a) 2 white wires connects to +5v pad(mentioned in point number 2 above)
b) 2 black wires connects to the Ground pad (mentioned in point number 1 above)
c) blue wire connects to the point marked in the picture
Only 1 question I have : if you refer the pic .. there is a capacitor it seems(may be a filter capacitor) [i have marked a question mark ] .. could you please help me understand what it is and whats it purpose ?
[edit] : there is one more question .. so I need a 5.1k resistor to draw power from the nintendo Ac adapter .. that 5.1k resistor is needed at this typec male port .. or its already present and connected to the female typec port(which is inside the switch console) ?
Regards
Rahul
Here is the usb typec male port that I have shortlisted (pic attached)
1)so i figured out the Ground pad on typec male(the pad is on the other side if you refer my pic) [it has continuity with pin 1 & 12]
2) i figured out the +5v pad on the typec male(the pad is on the other side if you refer my pic) [it has continuity with pin 4 and 9]
3) I figured out the sense wire pad(marked in the pic) .. and it has continuity with pin 5
So the 5 wires from my nintendo switch AC adapter connects like this:
a) 2 white wires connects to +5v pad(mentioned in point number 2 above)
b) 2 black wires connects to the Ground pad (mentioned in point number 1 above)
c) blue wire connects to the point marked in the picture
Only 1 question I have : if you refer the pic .. there is a capacitor it seems(may be a filter capacitor) [i have marked a question mark ] .. could you please help me understand what it is and whats it purpose ?
[edit] : there is one more question .. so I need a 5.1k resistor to draw power from the nintendo Ac adapter .. that 5.1k resistor is needed at this typec male port .. or its already present and connected to the female typec port(which is inside the switch console) ?
Regards
Rahul
Last edited by rahulkalra9,
I didn't see these on the original plug so I think these should be build in the charger itself.
But this is just logic speaking: in real life I'm a data analyst with a gaming hobby, not a qualified electrician...
But this is just logic speaking: in real life I'm a data analyst with a gaming hobby, not a qualified electrician...
yeah buddy .. I am stuck .. tried 2 things .. and didnt work ..gonna read some articles (i am holding this for few months) ..
Thanks for the help ..
I am also thinking of a way to bypass the handshake(negotiation between charger(i guess there is PD ic or something) & some power ic on the mobo .. i am like 100% sure that its doable but I need to read a lot of stuff) and give power as per my choice .. I am gonna take a few months to do that .. i will update here ..
Regards
Rahul
Seems like you’ve been at this for 2 years?
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/505876/usb-c-charging-cable-for-nintendo-switch
Any reason not to just buy a new cable?
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/505876/usb-c-charging-cable-for-nintendo-switch
Any reason not to just buy a new cable?
Buddy, you got it, your adapter, charger, power supply, brick, etc. (what ever you called it) is a semi intelligent device. isn't like the older USB chargers which only are power supply of 5 volts and whatever current allowed/asked by the device.
the new type of chargers use a protocol called PD (Power Delivery) https://www.goalzero.com/blogs/news/what-the-tech-usb-c-and-power-delivery-explained that protocol allows to the device and charger "talk" and agree the Power of the electricity deliver, power refers not only to Voltage also Amperage. That's why the charger is rated as 5V/1.5A (7 Watts) & 15V/2.5A (37.5 Watts).
When charged is disconnected the charger have no voltage between his +V - GND wires.
Then when connected to a device the communication wire is used to negotiate a power to delivery on terms of Voltage and Current.
most of the USB-C connectors are semi-breakthrough boards, that's mean what you dont have directly access to each pin of the connector but the circuit board have some tracks and connect some pins with other and have pads for you to solder wires.
USB-C Pinout:
if you look the original pictures you provide, you can identify 4 solder pads, I marked with brown, light brown, blue and red lines
The red lines are connected to pins A4, A9, B4 & B9 which on the Pinout for USB-C connector correspond to VBUS (as marked on the pcb)
The Brown lines are connected to pins A12 & B1 and the light Brown ones to A1 & B12 all of then correspond to GND on USB-C pinout
And the Blue lines are connected to A5 (CC1).
The pic CC1 is the responsible to indicate to the power source what type of connection the device wants.
Also you must note what the pins A6 & A7 (D+ & D-) are shorted AT CONNECTOR, so the device knows what the cable connected to his port is from a power bank and no a device for data transmission. Theoretically the B6 & B7 pins should be shorted too, but that could be managed internally by the board with multi layer pcb or on the device as asked by the USB RFC
Most of the commercial USB-Connectors are like:
as you can see you have access to some pins, but no to the CC1 pin which is managed by the board with the resistors included.
This connectors are used for "data cables" or OTG whn you move the included resistor to the free pads, a typical OTG connection is:
So you need a connector with access to all pins and make the internal connections between A6&A7, and connect the CC1 cable to the correspondent pin.
There are two VBUS and GND cables for the amperage management, you better use two "thin" cables than a very thick cable to deliver the same current.
hope be clear enough to give you an advance.
the new type of chargers use a protocol called PD (Power Delivery) https://www.goalzero.com/blogs/news/what-the-tech-usb-c-and-power-delivery-explained that protocol allows to the device and charger "talk" and agree the Power of the electricity deliver, power refers not only to Voltage also Amperage. That's why the charger is rated as 5V/1.5A (7 Watts) & 15V/2.5A (37.5 Watts).
When charged is disconnected the charger have no voltage between his +V - GND wires.
Then when connected to a device the communication wire is used to negotiate a power to delivery on terms of Voltage and Current.
most of the USB-C connectors are semi-breakthrough boards, that's mean what you dont have directly access to each pin of the connector but the circuit board have some tracks and connect some pins with other and have pads for you to solder wires.
USB-C Pinout:
if you look the original pictures you provide, you can identify 4 solder pads, I marked with brown, light brown, blue and red lines
The red lines are connected to pins A4, A9, B4 & B9 which on the Pinout for USB-C connector correspond to VBUS (as marked on the pcb)
The Brown lines are connected to pins A12 & B1 and the light Brown ones to A1 & B12 all of then correspond to GND on USB-C pinout
And the Blue lines are connected to A5 (CC1).
The pic CC1 is the responsible to indicate to the power source what type of connection the device wants.
Also you must note what the pins A6 & A7 (D+ & D-) are shorted AT CONNECTOR, so the device knows what the cable connected to his port is from a power bank and no a device for data transmission. Theoretically the B6 & B7 pins should be shorted too, but that could be managed internally by the board with multi layer pcb or on the device as asked by the USB RFC
Most of the commercial USB-Connectors are like:
as you can see you have access to some pins, but no to the CC1 pin which is managed by the board with the resistors included.
This connectors are used for "data cables" or OTG whn you move the included resistor to the free pads, a typical OTG connection is:
So you need a connector with access to all pins and make the internal connections between A6&A7, and connect the CC1 cable to the correspondent pin.
There are two VBUS and GND cables for the amperage management, you better use two "thin" cables than a very thick cable to deliver the same current.
hope be clear enough to give you an advance.
1) I am working on it for 10 months (some of the pics I attached are not mine) and 10 months ago I invested few days only. I returned back to it and spent another 5 days ..
2) when I DIY .. I learn a lot .. and I document the mistakes and successes .. so thats why I dont go and buy something from a shelf ..
3) and there was no urge of playing the switch ( i would have bought a new adapter if I felt any urge) .. i have been enjoying 3ds/wiiu for the last 10 months ..
Regards
Rahul
thanks for the details ... and I have access to cc1 pin as well .. somehow it didnt work for me .. I am gonna get a new usb typec plug(the one you showed) and carry on after a few days .. thanks for the pointers ..
Post automatically merged:
thanks .. I got this information already .. thanks for pointing again ..
@impeeza : Just a small doubt
1) I managed to connect the 2 white wires(from my switch power adapter) to a PAD that connects to pin A4 and A9 - no issues here (these are Vbus)
2) I managed to connect the 2 black wires(from my switch power adapter) to a PAD that connects to pin A1 and A12 - no issues here (these 2 wires are ground wires)
3) the sense wire from my nintendo ac adapter(the blue wire) ,, I connected using a jumper wire .. so the blue wire of my nintendo switch AC adapter is connected to the CC1 pin using a jumper wire .. and this is a thin wire .. I only have doubt about this connection(do i need a think wire for this connection? ) .. may be this Thin jumper wire is the reason that this fix didnt work for me
I did the connections as explained in the above 3 points and then I tried two cases :
a) case 1: I attached a 5.1k resistor between the blue sense wire and ground as well .. in this case .. the switch showed "NINTENDO" and didnt power on .. i saw the charging ligtning indicator for a minute and then it vanished
b) case 2: I removed the 5.1k resistor .. in this case I saw "Nintendo" written on the screen and then anotherscreen where I could see joycons and thats set .. the switch didnt boot and then a black screen after like 4/5 mins
PS:
1) and I am absolutely fine .. putting my typec port in 1 orientation only( if the reverse orientation is not working .. i am absolutely fine) ..
2) these 2 attached pics are mine ..
2a) the pins of d+ and d- are shorted .. as you can see in the attached pic of my usb typec male port
3) one question .. if you check my attached pic(of my usb typec male port) .. i have put a question mark on a capacitor .. could u please tell me what is it for?
4) one question .. so do i need a resistor between the sense wire and ground? (Sorry I have read a lot of posts and I am a bit confused on this point) ..
Regards
Rahul
1) I managed to connect the 2 white wires(from my switch power adapter) to a PAD that connects to pin A4 and A9 - no issues here (these are Vbus)
2) I managed to connect the 2 black wires(from my switch power adapter) to a PAD that connects to pin A1 and A12 - no issues here (these 2 wires are ground wires)
3) the sense wire from my nintendo ac adapter(the blue wire) ,, I connected using a jumper wire .. so the blue wire of my nintendo switch AC adapter is connected to the CC1 pin using a jumper wire .. and this is a thin wire .. I only have doubt about this connection(do i need a think wire for this connection? ) .. may be this Thin jumper wire is the reason that this fix didnt work for me
I did the connections as explained in the above 3 points and then I tried two cases :
a) case 1: I attached a 5.1k resistor between the blue sense wire and ground as well .. in this case .. the switch showed "NINTENDO" and didnt power on .. i saw the charging ligtning indicator for a minute and then it vanished
b) case 2: I removed the 5.1k resistor .. in this case I saw "Nintendo" written on the screen and then anotherscreen where I could see joycons and thats set .. the switch didnt boot and then a black screen after like 4/5 mins
PS:
1) and I am absolutely fine .. putting my typec port in 1 orientation only( if the reverse orientation is not working .. i am absolutely fine) ..
2) these 2 attached pics are mine ..
2a) the pins of d+ and d- are shorted .. as you can see in the attached pic of my usb typec male port
3) one question .. if you check my attached pic(of my usb typec male port) .. i have put a question mark on a capacitor .. could u please tell me what is it for?
4) one question .. so do i need a resistor between the sense wire and ground? (Sorry I have read a lot of posts and I am a bit confused on this point) ..
Regards
Rahul
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Last edited by rahulkalra9,
All good reasons, my friend. I do the same and have a project Switch myself. enjoy your journey!
I tried 56k resistor.. one end connected to the ground and other to the sense wire .. tried recharging and it didnt work .. i tried all combinations .. and nothing seemed to work .. I guess its best to bypass this power delivery handshake .. i am gonna try that and update here .. thanks for the help ..
I really don't know becase never has seen a connector from a original charger, but what you can see on the pictures, there is no resistor on the plug. could be managed by the charger on the internal circuitery.
Ohkay .. so the only 1 thing left to try .. to remove the jumper wire and solder the sense wire to the CC1 pin ..i will also try this and update here ..
Hi,
I soldered a thick jumper wire on CC1 (as compared to the previous jumper wire) .. so no success .. what i feel is that nintendo has shorted some extra pins or they have used some "x" value resistor on one of the pins .. so basically the internal circuitary just identifies if an original charger pin is plugged or not .. and I am gonna order a usb typec female breakout board .. and I will carry on this after some time .. really thanks for the help ...
Regards
Rahul
I soldered a thick jumper wire on CC1 (as compared to the previous jumper wire) .. so no success .. what i feel is that nintendo has shorted some extra pins or they have used some "x" value resistor on one of the pins .. so basically the internal circuitary just identifies if an original charger pin is plugged or not .. and I am gonna order a usb typec female breakout board .. and I will carry on this after some time .. really thanks for the help ...
Regards
Rahul
Last edited by rahulkalra9,
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