Hardware New 2DS XL "Popping Fault" / Blue light only - But briefly worked.

Insomniac8

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Hi all,

I have been spending my lock-down months trying to fix some old consoles and handhelds for fun and have found the New 2DS XL to be a nice console to work on, and have managed to get a few of them up and running again now.

However, I have two consoles that are not happy for seemingly the same reasons, so I am hoping there is someone out here with a bit more knowledge that might be able to make some suggestions.

Console 1)
This was bought with already having the "popping fault" where the blue light comes on for a few seconds, and then goes off with a pop from the speakers. Opening it up, the tops screen ribbon was in bad shape, so I got that swapped out, but it did not fix it. On closer inspection, the bottom screen back light connector had been "opened" at some point so was not making a good connection. Holding it in place I was able to get it to boot. Given that the I was unable to keep it in place, I thought I would try reinforcing the connector with a little solder. During this, I had clearly managed to bridge across the pins, it still booted but there was no backlight. I managed to unbridge the connections, but annoyingly I still couldn't seem to get a good connection, and now holding it down didn't allow it to boot. This is, I think the point where it stopped working. Since this point, I have removed the connector completely, soldered a screen on, re-bridged the pins, fitted a replacement socket and connected it to a different backlight. None of these made any difference. I can only assume at this point that something has failed such as a capacitor or fuse.

Console 2)
This motherboard had a slight bend on it near the battery side, and with both the backlight and NFC connectors completely missing. Given that I already had some of these connectors for console 1, I went ahead and fitted new connectors and hooked it back up. I gave it a test while still opened up, and it turned on. I still hadn't put all the screws back in, so wile testing it out I had a few cases of it turning off. So, I started screwing it all together properly so everything was on apart from the back casing which was connected but not clipped in. Still working. I then tried to fit the back case on, while it was on. (urgh) and it didn't seem to want to go on. I was carefully trying to get it all lined up when it turned off again. So I took the back cover off again, checked all the connections and still nothing. Since that point it has failed to boot each time.

So that is where we are, 2 consoles, both that had issues around the backlight connector that now wont boot even though all things are connected.

I have another console arriving soon that is supposed to just have a broken top screen (cracked, so still electrically sound), so my next step is probably to start comparing readings between all 3 boards to see if anything shows up.

If anyone has any suggestions that would be great! But if not, I will update this thread with anything I do find out in the hope that others may be able to fix this issue too.
 

actualkoifish

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Sorry that nobody posted anything in response for all of these months. If you ended up doing any work on this further and got results, I would love to see it. I'm working on a similar problem with a 2DS (original bread slice, not XL) and since I've seen this on other 3DS models, I suspect there is overlap between the different variants. If you have any insights, I'd be welcome to read them.
 
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rip-it-up

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the brightness connecter is a pain.
i do believe it blows something on the board if you bridge across four pins.
I think there connected in pairs.

ived had a solid blue light on a 2ds XL, and I assumed it was the top screen. but it was actually a cold solder joint on zif connecter for the top screen.
 

actualkoifish

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At some point I will have more time and I will make a video about this, but I figured out that solid blue light with no other response is caused by a specific failure, IIRC it is caused when one of the screens is not connected, but I haven't had time recently to fool around with hardware, so I can't confirm.
 
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