Gaming NDS no charge, F1 and F2 blown?

Localhorst86

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hi,

a few days ago my NDS lite stopped charging and i checked online what could be causing this, and i saw a lot of reports mentioning their NDSL wont charge but the charging lite will flash shortly when connecting a charger. Now on my NDS, the charing LED wont flash either, but the device will still turn on with the battery installed (but not without the battery and one of my chargers connected). so i deciddd to borrow a multimeter from work, and what do you know, both F1 and F2 don't have connection. so either k am too stupid to check fuses or they are both blown. what could have caused this? i am not very good with soldering, so what can i do to enjoy my NDS? please dont propose that i should be using one of my 3DSes, i prefer playing the NDS games in a sharp resolution on a devicd they were properly designed for.

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Localhorst
 

migles

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the console doesn't turn on without the battery in case you didn't know (the battery completes the circuit) this happens on every DS console.. (and i think 3ds as well)
 

migles

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well, thats good to know. i wonder what Nintendo would charge for a repair.
more than the console is worth, you can get a ndsl for 40 (maybe 30, didnt checked) euros or around that. mine was 60 bucks about 3 years ago.. included 2 games..

i don't think its the fuse, my fuse (i thing f1) blown up and i couldn't even start the console..
when i connected the charger it would try to charge for a bit and then turn off, if i turned on the console it would flash the green light shortly and turn off
 

Localhorst86

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more than the console is worth, you can get a ndsl for 40 (maybe 30, didnt checked) euros or around that. mine was 60 bucks about 3 years ago.. included 2 games..

i don't think its the fuse, my fuse (i thing f1) blown up and i couldn't even start the console..
when i connected the charger it would try to charge for a bit and then turn off, if i turned on the console it would flash the green light shortly and turn off
if its not the fuse, what do you think it could be? i tried three different chargers, two of which i know work definatelly because they charge my GBA and 3DS respectively, so it cant be the chargers.
 

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if its not the fuse, what do you think it could be? i tried three different chargers, two of which i know work definatelly because they charge my GBA and 3DS respectively, so it cant be the chargers.
gba, 3ds and DS LITE do have different plugs and chargers, how did you used them?
 

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they are dual chargers, each. one allows me to charge GBA SP and NDS, the other onenis compatible with 3DS and NDS. the third one is an official NDS charger by nintendo.
what option did you choose on the multimeter?
there are other points for test the fuse.... it was close to a diode... i don't remember or exactly where, i do know my friend didn't had a good iron small enough for the job, and he soldered a wire in another point.. because he could verify it was following the PCB wire..

sorry my english is not that great..
 

Localhorst86

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what option did you choose on the multimeter?
there are other points for test the fuse.... it was close to a diode... i don't remember or exactly where, i do know my friend didn't had a good iron small enough for the job, and he soldered a wire in another point.. because he could verify it was following the PCB wire..

sorry my english is not that great..
i tried the connection setting on my multimeter and i also tried setting it to resistance. if the fuse woild be allright, the resistance should show 0 ohm, but it wont.

EDIT: I am probably just gonna hunt for an NDS lite with a broken screen and rip out the board.
 
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Localhorst86

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Just an update, yes F1 and F2 were blown. I ordered a broken ds off eBay and that board worked in my case until I tried to close it. F1 and F2 had continuity on that board, but apparently I broke EM10 when closing the case, It was loose on one pin. Tried soldering it back on but it fell apart when I put slight pressure on it to connect it to the board (did I mention I suck at soldering?). Same thing happened when I tried getting EM10 from the board with the broken F1/2. So apparently, that piece is rather sensitive. Gonna try and get another cheap broken DSL from eBay.

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